Bostonians told us that it was their first weekend of nice weather for springtime. They celebrated in sun-splashed 65-degrees: sailboats, frisbees, tennis, carousels, farmers' markets, Swan Boats in the pond, sunbathing, and picnics.
We began the day accomplishing a particular mission. Our friend and fellow Astorian, Teddy, is the founder of Grateful Peoples. Like Johnny Appleseed folklore, he distributes Gratitude Journals in shops and coffee houses that exude good vibes. Customer are encouraged to write whatever they're grateful for on that day. His organization's other initiative enriches positive mentality at companies. Lululemon, Walmart, and MindBodySpirit already participate: for every journal they buy an employee, one is donated to a school kid. It's a great idea! When he heard that I wanted to buy two journals to leave in Boston, he happily gifted them to me. There were two coffeeshops I wanted to visit, and I assumed they would be perfect homes for the journals. (Teddy designed the covers).
However, the first one, Boston Common Coffee on Washington Street, gave Lewis the chills; it lacked good energy.
We skipped it and went to the next on our list—literally a few doors down: George Howell Coffee.
While savoring my espresso, I admired the retail space within the shop, the nooks of historic coffee apparatuses and the cheerful employees. Lewis helped me rehearse how to ask if we could donate the journal to their space, and the barista was more than happy to accept. Unlike mistrusting New Yorkers, she was immediately grateful, and she didn't skeptically think that we wanted anything in return. That was nice. Before we left, the manager came out to shake our hands and thank us for that "act of kindness" to "human spirit". He gifted us a bag of their espresso to give to Teddy as a Thank You. Hearing how we loved great coffee, he also recommended Gracenote (the place we visited yesterday)! It represented true customer service for him to refer us to a "competitor", to ensure that our visit in Boston was delightful.
We decided to hit Gracenote (that's a pun: "hit a note") in the afternoon. We admired flower boxes on homes and businesses, as we headed to our reserved historic tour of a pre-Civil War place you probably never heard of. It's amazing!
Built in 1849, the Boston Athenæum is a private library and museum gallery. People pay for annual usage. It hosts concerts, recitals, readings, plays, exhibits, and lectures.
The address is droll: 10 1/2 Beacon Street (ten-and-a-half). Erected beside sacred burial grounds, it guarantees plenty of "reading sunlight" because no buildings can be built next to it. Self-guided tombstone tours occur all day in the graveyard.
Upon entering the whimsical red leather doors, you can deposit your belongings in complimentary lockers.
The Visitor Services receptionist and guards explained that tours only allows 8 people, so it was good that I called in advance. With time to kill, we admired the latest exhibit in the Norma Jean Calderwood Gallery—which is open to the public.
It was amusing to read a copy of the Athenæum's original charter, which stated that an annual subscription cost $10, which was the price of today's tour. Annual subscriptions are now $240, although the first-floor book collection/gallery is open to the public. Only members can borrow books.
To my mind, the ceiling of a lounge resembled Ben Franklin's famous kite that tested electricity.
Whether overhead or underfoot, beauty fills every room. Understandably, the landmarked building is on the National Register of Historic Places.
We had time to flip through some books. Cozy places to read are tucked everywhere: at the ends of balconies, between bookshelves, and around corners.
All of the antique grandfather clocks accurately chime the times of day. Our local/volunteer tour guide began with a quick orientation and history lesson.
We commenced on the top floor (elevator up, staircase down)
Even the steps involve curving stonework and banisters.
So graceful.
The fifth floor is for members and is a "quiet reading room". It has a partly shaded roof terrace, and a kitchen (covered beverages are allowed).
Each descending level is a bastion of worldly knowledge, centuries-old tomes, and original editions. The artwork is by local sculptors and painters of world-renown. For instance, the Athenaeum houses the original sketch of George Washington used on the Dollar Bill!
The fourth and third floors maintain decorum.
A colorfully painted spiral stairwell is part of the grand Periodicals Reading Room on the second floor.
Don't think about being careless with the card catalog, because eyes are ever-watchful, ha ha!
Rising against one end of the Athenaeum, a fireproof "tower", made of glass floors and steel walls, holds treasured publications.
Clearly, the founders and members intend this to serve like the ancient Greek and Roman libraries, as hinted by the basement's pillars... and its name "Athen"aeum.
All of the sculpted nudity is balanced by the innocent presence of the Children's Library, located down an elegant corridor.
The children's librarian helps preschoolers and adolescents alike. Impressed, we admired the curved-wall bookcases, astrological display, aquarium, and stuffed animals.
A vintage telephone booth rounded out the oddities of the Atheneaum for that portion of our day. A wondrous treasure-trove!
As a novelist, I'm proud to mention a link to my first authorship:
*To see when we visited an older library (also the longest), please use this link:
Down the lane, we continued our tour of history at King's Chapel, which rings the largest bell made by Paul Revere's foundry, circa 1816. At 264-years-old, the national historic landmark shows signs of unremitting care and upkeep.
It was the first Anglican church in the "New World". The original wooden church was erected there in 1688 by the Royal Governor and named in honor of King James II. (New York's capital, Albany, is also named for James II when he was the Duke of Albany). Its congregation still worships according to the prayerbook of 1785.
To maintain upkeep, original families paid for their own boxed pews—customized to their needs. One had a compartment in a pillar... maybe to hide a flask or snuffbox.
It evoked memories of our first jaunt to Boston, when we visited Paul Revere's home (spacious for its era, circa 1680)...
...and the Old North Church, built in 1723, which is famous for the Revolutionary-era quote, "One if by land; two if by sea". (It was a signal system used by lookouts to signify which method the British troops used). Both structures are in Little Italy.
Located on Salem Street, the church was one block away from the Skinniest House in Boston (the narrowest part in the rear is only 9.2-feet wide).
From there, we headed northeast to both of the renown Food Markets. When you see a grasshopper wind vane, you're near Faneuil Market: three long parallel markets and a promenade.
The central market is Quincy Market, which is also on the National Register of Historic Places. Built in 1825, it is full of food stalls; some are a bit commonplace.
As luck would have it, we entered the building right beside Boston Chowda. It was the first eatery we intended to visit! (Bostonians pronounce chowder as "chowda". Such a lack of rhoticity also occurs in England).
*To see our trip to England, please click this link:
Moments after we got to the counter, a huge line of customers formed behind us. Whew, we were glad that we arrived when we did! We ordered cold lobster rolls, a crab salad roll (both on challah bread), and Boston clam chowder. The meal brought back my memories of summering in Bar Harbor, Maine! Delicious!
We lunched al fresco, watching street performers and college boys in shorts.
Walking up a few streets, we came upon Boston Public Market, nestled amidst winding 18th-century lanes and narrow buildings that predate the more-famous Flatiron Building. We loved such coziness: clean, decorative, and pedestrian-only.
In addition to their tented Farmer's Market outside (above), the indoor Food Market is purely artisanal (below).
Everything is locally-sourced, organic, and "small batch".
Below, a woodcarver reclaims fallen trees to fashion into bowls, trays, and cutting boards.
Apropos to the city's Little Italy and EATALY, one vendor specialized in handmade pasta, which was cooked-to-order for your consumption!
*To see our trip to Italy for the best pasta, please click this link:
Traditional of New England, a food-stall specialized in fudge. They offered a seasonal flavor: carrot cake. Lewis is a fan of carrot cake.
We got one and ate by the waterfront.
The clocktower hastened us to Gracenote Coffee. Founded by an Australian with a Coffee Cart Tricycle, it embodies a love of fine coffee craft and good vibes. I tried their Cardamom Latte, which was wonderful. Edward, the barista, graciously accepted the Gratitude Journal and listened happily as Lewis and I described it. Another success!
Refreshed, we explored the city's revitalized "warehouse district", just over the Fort Point Channel section of Boston Harbor. Three lamp-lit drawbridges give easy access.
Chalmer was due to meet us for drinks and dinner. When I mentioned trying a place called Drink, he replied that it was an excellent choice. Owned by a James Beard Award-winning restaurateur, Barbara Lynch, the basement bar creates custom cocktails with fresh ingredients.
Being fair-minded, we soon gave our space to others and walked down the road to our dinner reservations.
In another industrial-chic space, we dined at Oak & Rohan, which serves farm-to-table fare.
The chef implemented his Springtime menu. The bartender wheeled over a cocktail-making cart for table-side concoctions. How lovely!
My gin, lavender, orange bitters cocktail was sublime!
Lewis ordered a rum cocktail with blood orange and elderflower liqueur. Their Whey Sourdough bread was as soft as their creamery-fresh butter.
Next, both fellows ordered Clam & Pork Belly Chowder.
I ordered the Porcelet Porchetta with smoked Oyster Mayo and baby Turnips. A sprinkling of edible flowers was used for color.
For dinner, I savored Halibut with Morel Mushrooms, green Garlic, Spinach, and Vin Juan cream.
We skipped dessert and walked back to our hotel.
We traipsed through an overpass that was lit by twinkle lights. Unlike NYC, there were no beggars, vandalism, or trash.
The litter-free park was a pleasure to cross, even at night.
Our hotel's doorman hailed a taxi for Chalmer, and Lewis and I ascended to our room for slumber.
The litter-free park was a pleasure to cross, even at night.
As we exited, a man approached us. Typical New Yorkers would be fearful of an intrusion, but we knew that Boston is delightful. Sure enough, the smiley young man merely wanted to compliment the pattern of my camouflage jacket. With a wave, he wished us a pleasant evening, and he strolled through the park gates.
Our hotel's doorman hailed a taxi for Chalmer, and Lewis and I ascended to our room for slumber.
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