The pinnacle of culinary talent is demonstrated by a chef who works at a restaurant where the kitchen was bestowed with Michelin Stars. Contrary to misconceptions, chefs do not have Michelin Stars; the stars are awarded to the "kitchen". If a chef leaves, the stars will remain... until the kitchen is reevaluated. Any foodie knows that the Michelin Guide employs secretive Inspectors who make annual ratings. To win a star is a momentous cause for celebration that millions of chefs dream about. It announces that the kitchen team has masterful techniques, refined recipes, and consistency. Every meal must be perfect to maintain a star because nobody knows when an Inspector will arrive to corroborate a prior assessment or reevaluate for the next year. Earning two stars is orgasmic! That brings a flurry of media attention and "industry respect". If a place has enough talent and luck to achieve three stars, it proves itself as a paragon of abilities.
Lewis and I were thrilled to have dinner reservations at Maaemo, in the center of Oslo. It triumphantly has three stars! Its name is an Old Norse word that translates to "Mother Earth".
Of the millions of restaurants around the world, there are only 138 that earned Three Michelin Stars! When you experience winners in that scarcity, it is supposed to ensure sublime perfection (as much as humans can do): ambiance, service, flavors, presentation, and satisfaction.
In Norway, our three-star dinner was sheer perfection!
Maaemo (pronounced "My-Mo") is one of the few Michelin-starred restaurants that is open in Oslo during August. Having a superb Life/Work Balance in Europe means that restaurant workers are entitled to enjoying vacations during peak times when everyone else has them. Being savvy travelers, Lewis and I planned our trip to coincide with Maaemo's reopening in mid-August. On the day that their website accepted a new season of reservations, I was awake and online at 5 o'clock in the morning to guarantee a table. There are only eight tables, and the superb restaurant accommodates only 30 guests per night. My perseverance was rewarded with success! I squealed with joy when it happened, and my exuberance woke Lewis. We were guaranteed to savor the Seasonal Chef's Tasting Menu. Hooray! The price of each meal was 4,500 crowns. Later, the Booking & Guest Relations Manager emailed me to confirm the details and inquire about any food restrictions.
On the evening of our imminent dinner, we gussied ourselves in stylish attire and were overjoyed that our hotel was near a tram route that took us to the restaurant. No taxi needed.
Getting to fancy dinners in New York City is fraught with stress because of never-ending traffic, road construction delays, unreliable yet surcharge-priced Uber rides, and canceled/rerouted subways. In Oslo, we had a proper "first-world" experience. We rode aboard a tram on Route # 13. Traveling in its own lane, it avoided traffic (traffic jams are almost nonexistent in Oslo) and took us to the urbane Bar Code district.
The tram paused at a stop named Bjorvika. Thanks to Oslo's public transit and lack of traffic jams, we were early for our 10:15 (8:15pm) reservations.
Located on Queen Eufemia’s Street, Maaemo is situated in a newly-constructed high-rise: #23. The street is named for a Norwegian-born queen who reigned from 1299 to 1312.
Chef Esben Holmboe Bang grew up in a posh part of Copenhagen, but he left secondary school to train himself as a chef and resided in a "hippie collective". In 2001, he relocated to Norway and made a home in the capital. He worked at three restaurants that had Michelin stars.
Chef Bang collaborated with two partners (one was his sommelier) to start Maaemo in 2010, near the Central Station. It was a bright glass-enclosed space that focused on 100% organic and locally-sourced ingredients.
From his excellence and culinary genius, it was awarded with two stars in the Michelin Guide within only one year! That's stunning. It was the first Nordic restaurant to do so. In 2016, it was bestowed with a third star! Awesome! Simultaneously, Geranium (in Copenhagen) also earned 3 Stars, so they became the first Nordic restaurants to achieve that rarefied status.
That year, Chef Bang sought to improve the performance of his team, so he reduced Maaemo's workweek to four days. That is the opposite of what nearly every American employer would do. In an interview, he reported, "I saw the effect immediately. People had higher energy, and they began each week with an attitude of wanting to be here." Seeing the noticeable impact, he took it further: once a month, everyone received five days off in succession so they had time to visit faraway family or just have fun. "It was always tense before. People got tired of each other; they snapped at each other. I got pissed-off at waiters because they weren't smiling enough. Now, we're like normal people, and it gives us a boost". Wow!
At the end of 2019, Chef Bang gambled his success and chose to close his amazing restaurant and relocate. That incurred a loss of all the Michelin Stars because the new restaurant had to be evaluated. Nearly all chefs are fearful of doing anything that might endanger Michelin Stars, so global "food watchers" clung with suspense to the outcome of Chef Bang's desires. It was probable that he and his elite kitchen crew would regain a star... but three? In 2021, he and his culinary team began anew in the Barcode District. They strove to earn all the stars! Like a Phoenix rising from a new beginning, Maaemo was awarded tremendously again with 3 Michelin Stars! I don't think that ever happened before. It’s a huge testament to ability and confidence. That is worth traveling around the world for.
This year, Maaemo was incredibly proud and jubilant to maintain its Three Stars in the annual Michelin Guide. Starting in 2021, the Michelin Guide conferred a Green Michelin Star to recognize “best in class” for sustainable practices, ethical waste and packaging, eco-friendly energy use and emissions, support for employees, and environmental leadership. Maaemo quickly earned one of those, too! It's one of the few places to achieve it.
Maaemo is considered to be the most important restaurant in the kingdom. A meal there is a journey through Norway’s gastronomy: to make food that reflects who Norwegians are, how they lived in the past, and how they adapt to the future. Years ago, foodies only revered France, Spain, China, and Italy. Now, five of the world’s best restaurants are in Northern Europe—and they focus on sustainability and eco-friendly methods.
When we arrived, Lewis and I stood under the awning and admired the convex-curved door. There is no handle or doorknob.
From tourism videos, we knew that access was achieved by pressing a brass doorbell (highlighted by a brass plague that brandished the Three Michelin Stars). By itself, that modesty is heart-warming. Most restaurants hang the unmistakable red Michelin Plaque in a prominent place. Maaemo chose to design their Stars in brass and make it only noticeable to people seeking the doorbell. That is understated humility.
Of course, with multitudes of global admirers, the restaurant is confidant that its customers won't need any sign to find them.
As I prepared to video-record Lewis pressing the button, the restaurant's greeter observed us through a window and slid the door open for us. Entering through sliding doors is a reoccurring experience at Maaemo, and it gives a slick James Bond vibe!
Indeed, the interior décor is evocative of a 007 film: stark cement walls with vertical pillars (illuminated handsomely) that contrast with cozy wood furnishings and fireplaces. Yes, the restaurant is equipped with TWO wood-burning fireplaces! I loved that! It was the perfect "welcoming experience" to sit beside the cheery flames of a crackling fire.
However, our first amazing experience was being face-to-face with Chef Esben Holmboe Bang, who stood in the foyer as we entered. Wow! His rugged handsomeness belies a scrutinizing mind that seeks fresh ways to prepare farm-to-table recipes with exactness and flair. Our admiration for him also comes from knowing his chancy decision to close/reopen his restaurant.
The foyer is void of furniture, yet we liked its solidity. Upon arrival, guests notice that all the doors are closed, so they cannot peek into the dining room or kitchen. Instead, they are ushered down a stone staircase to a homey space underground.
Yes, Maaemo invested in prime real estate to own a two-level eatery. Guests start their dining experience with aperitifs and amuse bouche downstairs in the fire-lit lounge.
Clusters of cushy chairs and velvet settees are illumined with pendant lamps that shine precisely at each table. We had a perfect spotlight to illuminate Lewis' sparkly iridescent shoes.
The far corner had a see-through door that gave salivating views of the Wine Cellar.
As per the doctrine of Scandinavian hospitality, candles flickered near bud vases on every table. A service-bar was positioned next to the fireplace. With gracefulness, the hostess sat us on a leather sofa in front of the log-burning fire.
We melted with respect for the interior designer. NYC has tens-of-thousands of restaurants, yet only three have wood-burning fireplaces (despite NYC's frigid winters). Most let their fireplaces deteriorate into uselessness, and they remain too cheap to invest in fixing them...
Furthermore, a majority of restaurants in NYC refuse to spend money to have candlesticks. Cheapness is unappealing.
Maaemo benefitted from the creative geniuses at Radius Interior Architects and Bielke & Yang designers. Francis Narud at Radius succeeded in crafting a space with natural fibers. The oak plank floor radiates a homey warmth, and it was crafted by Dinesen Designers.
Evidently, Maaemo upholds the refreshing Norwegian notion of Koselig: the absence of annoyance and the pleasure enjoyed from coziness and the presence of gentle, soothing things. We love that!
A Norwegian server inquired if we wanted to start our evening with an apéritif of champagne? That was a sublime notion, so we agreed readily. Sensing our enthusiasm, he gave us a half-smile and fetched a bottle of premium bubbly. Another waiter provided stemware and sociably complimented me about my purple bowtie. Each pour was priced at 315 crowns. Every drop was worth every øre (penny).
We were presented with water glasses, handcrafted in Berlin by Milena Kling, who was taught by a Japanese master glassblower.
The mouth-blown glasses were named Circle Glasses. We noticed that they were not perfect circles; the intention was to have a sensation of holding our water with lightweight and tactile fluidity. It worked.
It was a pleasantly unorthodox surprise to be informed that our Chef's Tasting Menu would begin in the lounge. We greatly respected Chef Bang's method of starting the meal in a separate room with morsels that tantalized our palates. It built suspense and gave us more time to be immersed in coziness.
Our culinary adventure commenced with an easygoing flow of three amuse bouche from the bustling kitchen(s).
Luxuriously, there was no urgency pressed upon us to move to the main dining room. Our servers encouraged us to relax, take our time, and absorb the ambiance. That was hugely nicer than the start of our meal at Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud in Dublin. *To see and compare experiences, please use this link: https://halfwindsorfullthrottle.blogspot.com/2023/02/our-trip-to-dublin-ireland-part-6-of-6.html
Maaemo relies on a mantra that everything must be organic, biodynamic, or wild-grown. (Applause). Our tastebuds were enraptured with Lompe: warmed smoked cod belly with horseradish. Pure perfection! Look at that scrupulous creation!
After that, our tongues were treated to morsels of Duck Liver on oven-warm brioche with hazelnuts and toasted yeast.
The yummiest amuse bouche was Aged Cheese on Ox Tongue that was accented with Spruce.
After we consumed our appetizers, an observant server inquired politely if we were ready to go upstairs to the dining room? We were. With a smile, he assured us that our unfinished champagne "would follow us". (It was brought upstairs by a waiter using a hidden elevator).
Lewis and I asked to use the lavatory to wash our hands. An impressive corridor connects to the unisex lavatory.
The acoustic ceiling continued into the corridor, which was made of concrete. On one side, slim rectangular black columns created a pattern of shadows. At the end was a hidden door. A motion-sensor slid it sideways into the wall. That was quintessentially James Bond-esque, and we loved it. Please enjoy our quick video of it...
There were motion-sensor urinals, sinks, soap dispensers, and hand dryers. Most places neglect to install motion-sensor doors, but Maaemo was smart to have one. That makes the entire experience perfectly sanitary.
Maaemo also provides an elegant array of complimentary fragrances. Lewis was enamored with a cologne by d'Orsay named Nous Sommes Amants, and he vowed to buy a bottle while we were in Oslo as a memento! It has a carnal mix of woody spice, juniper, and sandalwood.
Following a hostess, we ascended for our dinner and admired the sleek staircase again.
As we returned to the foyer, we were guided towards a wall that revealed itself to be a retractable doorway. Silently, a door slid into the wall, and we glimpsed a wood-burning fireplace as the first thing to greet us. Lovely!
Inside, the milieu was full of clean-lines and subdued lighting. The appearance was true to Scandinavian style: a harmony of functional and aesthetic elements. Plank flooring, a sleek Waiter Station made of wood (where no space was wasted), fluted cement columns, concrete walls, and discreet-yet-precise lighting.
Lewis and I were excited to notice an open-kitchen in one half of the room, yet it was nearly silent! Cooks and chefs moved around in synchronized silence: prepping, dicing, slicing, braising, seasoning, and plating. Absent was the typical loud banter, "Yes, Chef" exclamations, and noisy clatter. Chef Bang wanted his guests to witness their Food Preparation without it infringing on their conversations or enjoyment. That was "a first" for us to experience.
A young woman escorted us to our roomy table (#7) against the wall, under a colorful painting.
We had a full view of the room and its goings-on. We prefer that. The plush leather chairs were a classic Danish design. All of the round tables are spacious. Naturally, a candle flickered energetically in the center, beside a bud vase. Ready for us, white towels were moistened, rolled, and put on slabs. We cleaned our fingertips with them.
With an accommodating demeanor, the sommelier inquired if we needed guidance with their sizable Wine List. He asked if we wanted to add the Wine Pairing Menu to our meal? We did not. Not focused on profits, he perceptively gave recommendations. He and Lewis discussed varietals and vintages, and they finally agreed on an outstanding Riesling produced by a winery at the Zilliken Estate. Lovely and pure, it was priced at 1,100 crowns. It finessed our multi-course dinner and was perfect for a tumult of flavors.
Our five-hour experience progressed at a languid pace, and that unhurried trait is always a treat.
Coupled perfectly with the naturalistic interiors, the chargers (placeholders) on our table were hand-hewn from wood. Years ago, it was de rigueur for dining tables to have them to hold your dishes. We liked the fact that Chef Bang chose such crafty ones for his marvelous dining room.
Each etched mark resembled a wave in water or the curlicue of a cloud floating in the sky. Everything that we used for our meal was made with natural materials.
At exalted restaurants, we choose the Tasting Menu because it allows the kitchen team to use unique/prized ingredients in a scalable way. Inherently, it involves smaller portions, which avoids overindulgence for our tummies. We also value the "story" that accompanies the menu: the chef's inspiration for each seasonal ingredient, and a full description of everything on each plate. It's great when our perceptiveness notices that the staff does everything well: fresh table settings, teamwork, poise, timing of courses, juxtaposition of flavors, tableside preparation, and technical talent for plating.
The first course to be presented at our table was Dry-aged Beef garnished with Meadowsweet (a flowering herb with medicinal qualities) and Pinecone Vinegar. Unbeatable!
Last year, a worldwide assessment proclaimed that Norway's cattle farmers are among the best in the world for animal welfare. Grass-fed, non-GMO cows on insecticide-free pastures produce tender, fat-marbled meet that is highly sought-after.
Following that, we tasted lightly-smoked Vendace roe, topped with elderflower and blackcurrant leaves. Heavenly!
The ensuing course tantalized our tastebuds: Scallops from Norway's west coast, perched on preserved blackcurrants and white asparagus. Scrumptious!
As we learned in Germany, last year, scallops from Norway are treasures that grow in crystalline waters. They are hand-picked by divers to avoid damaging the underwater ecosystems.
Fishing, harvesting, seafood safety, fish welfare, and anti-pollution is scrutinized by the Royal Ministry of Fisheries and Coastal Affairs.
Throughout our meal, we observed Chef Bang wearing a blue apron and overseeing his flawless recipes.
Varying from the format of celebrity chefs, he also humbly assisted his servers to present courses to his guests. Unlike other Top Chefs who absorb the spotlight, he allowed himself to be in the background... and let his masterpieces be "centerstage". That wowed us—especially Lewis who worked for world-famous chefs, such as Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Susur Lee, and Masaharu Morimoto.
Next to arrive at our table was a course titled "Oyster Tradition 2010". It is the restaurant's "signature dish" that has remained for 13 years since its inception. It used a delectable dill oil that managed to avoid overpowering the mollusks.
Smiling at our exuberance, Chef Bang merely replied, "No, thank you for coming." His modesty and gratitude was astounding—especially for Americans who are accustomed to loud-mouthed "Hollywood celebrity chefs" who scream abusively at their employees. Chef Bang embodied the type of professional whom we prefer.
After that, our mouths were treated to gently-steamed turnips on nettles and toasted hay.
Those were memorable flavors that might seem modest but packed a wallop of culinary talent!
For our main courses, we started with Arctic Char that was brushed gently with salted butter and layered with a sauce made of hazelnuts, apples, and whey. Usually, Lewis disdains fish with orange-flesh: salmon, trout, and Arctic char. Hearing his hesitation, our server robustly entreated him to try it because it was far from the Americanized fish recipes that Lewis anticipated. The man was correct: Lewis actually liked it! They both smiled with happiness. Me, too.
Our server astutely seemed to recognize when we were ready, and he quietly signaled colleagues to fetch utensils for us. With heartfelt pride, he announced that our next course from the chef was lamb. I was elated, but Lewis resisted it. Our server noticed Lewis' defiant countenance, and he emphatically reasoned against it. He asked if Lewis disliked lamb due to "gaminess"? I knew the answer: American-bred lamb tends to get a gamey taste from its inferior maturation and "shortcut" methods. I tasted lamb and mutton in several other countries, and it always tastes better than what I had in America. The man earnestly asked Lewis to try their version; his assurance was compelling. He described how the animals were naturalistically raised, fed, cared-for, and butchered in the Springtime. Exuding the confidence of the entire restaurant, he stated that Maaemo's lamb was the "gold standard" that was worth having. I nearly drooled. Lewis acquiesced. The man seemed like he wanted to jump for joy.
Scandinavians began breeding sheep during the Iron Age, and their wool was used to weave sails for Viking ships and durable clothes for Norse settlements. Norway is renown for the best mutton and lamb because the animals graze at high altitudes for many months. Their lean diet of scrubby grasses, willow, and herbs produces lean meat. It has less fat than other breeds, yet it remains well-marbled.
Approaching us, another waiter carried a silver tray with a succulent-looking loin of lamb that was centered amidst wildflowers plucked from a hillside meadow. It looked perfect!
Patiently cooked over embers, the meat emitted a mouth-watering aroma, and I wafted some towards my nostrils. The waiter smirked in agreement, and then he carried it back to the cooks to be carved.
Building momentum, an Italian fellow used showmanship to present us with a wooden case that was full of steak knives.
Each was hand-crafted using stones foraged from the wilderness. The blades were identical, but each knife handle was fashioned from a unique material. We were invited to choose whichever knife "spoke to us". It felt like preparing for a duel.
As my fingers grasped my knife, I sensed the pride that was infused in its artistic creation. The curvy stone inlay gave a brightness to the handle. Naturally, the meat was so tender that the knife was unnecessary... but slicing my food was extremely gratifying with such a blade.
The sommelier approached our table to suggest a glass of red wine to better-complement our lamb. I agreed wholeheartedly.
Our slices of lamb were balanced perfectly with roasted garlic and horseradish. They were presented on rustic earthenware.
Satisfyingly, there was some skin on the lamb that provided a lovely crunch and texture. Every mouthful was orgasmic! I wanted more!
Following that, I needed a sip of glacial water to calm myself. Fresh from the bakers' ovens, we were presented with handmade Milk Bread, served with freshly-churned Forest Butter that possessed a perfect yellow hue from purebred Norwegian dairy cows. The bread was dusted with wild garlic and dried chanterelle mushrooms. Yummy!
While chewing the succulence meat, we heard the soothing sound of a snap and pop from the crackling flames in the log-burning fireplace. Sheer loveliness.
Any chef will tell you that the pan-drippings and gravy from cooked meat is a succulence that must be enjoyed. That is what occurred, and it brought the lamb's superbness to our palates again! Hooray!
Stemless cups were provided so we could ingest the broth that was flavored with Mushrooms and Green Juniper. The Italian server put bundles of aromatic herbs, tied with twine, in our cups. A pair of servers arrived with see-through teapots, and they poured the hot broth over the herbs. We were advised to let it steep for awhile, similar to tea. After a few minutes, we sipped the kitchen's perfection. I can still remember it, as I type this! It was better than any pan-drippings or gourmet au jus that we had before.
It was the ideal finale for our savory items. The table was cleaned, and we readied ourselves for the sweet items. However, Chef Bang invites his guests to return downstairs to his candlelit lounge to eat desserts. We were delighted with the "changes in scenery": it was homey. With synchronization, the sommelier stated that our unfinished wine would follow us wherever we went. The three of us chuckled together. Two waiters held our chairs as we stood, and a smiley waitress led us out of the room, past the glowing fire by the sliding doorway.
Descending through the stone passageways, we returned to the comfortable lounge. We passed its flaming fireplace and remembered with delight that such ambiance was possible in August because of Norway's cooler (unpolluted) climate. As I said, Oslo has nice things.
The Italian server with curly hair greeted us to describe the dessert segment of our meal. While he spoke, our Norwegian server from upstairs appeared through the hidden elevator and produced a chiller that contained our bottle of wine. Our glasses were returned to our grips, and we took happy sips. The four of us chatted for a moment, we shared our observant compliments, and the servers were inveigled by our affable American charm.
I asked our friend from Mumbai for recommendations for more great cuisine in the capital, and he complied. He didn't scribble it on paper; he printed it on the restaurant's parchment stationary. His suggestions included Mon Oncle, Kafeteria August, and Restaurant Rest. I respected the fact that he wasn't afraid of sharing success with his competition; he wanted to enhance our visit to the city. Our conversation lasted for 45 minutes, and it was unbelievably entertaining. We were one of the last customers to leave the restaurant... but nobody rushed us; they were happy to chat with us.
Another keepsake of our experience was a copy of the Chef's menu. Full of satisfaction, we gave the staff a gratuity of 965 crowns, as calculated by the payment e-tablet.
Please remember Norway's great value: our 3-Michelin-star meal cost $415 each. Almost comically, our three-star meal in NYC was terribly sub-standard yet cost $375. Dreadful! Typical of NYC, it was overhyped and overpriced for an underwhelming and inferior experience. *To see it, please use this link: https://halfwindsorfullthrottle.blogspot.com/2019/11/restaurant-review-eleven-madison-park.html
Once again, we prefer the value that is found abroad. As our heads touched the pillows in our hotel room, we felt satiated and satisfied. As we drifted off to dreamland, we anticipated the busiest day of our trip. Please join us in the next part.
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