It enjoys a prestigious address in Midtown East...
... on the corner of 55th Street and Park Avenue.
Chef Emma Bengtsson believes in freshness and plating. At age 34, she is one of only 3 female chefs in America with Michelin stars! Thanks to her, and the owner Håkan Swahn (both from the Kingdom of Sweden), everything in made in-house: breads, gravlax, aquavits, desserts.
A mix of big band, 1960s jazz, and remix-club-jazz is heard overhead, and the furnishings resemble 1960s chic.
Seen above, Lewis' cocktail--named "Like Herod"--involved aquavit (distilled from anise/caraway/fennel), Meletti, Amaro Sibilla, Amaro Dell'Eborista and grapefruit.
Below, mine, called "A Dram Here & There" involved Maker's Mark, allspice dram, Cherry Heering, and lemon. I LOVED the comfy Danish "Egg chair", designed by Arne Jacobsen.
My "Birthday Boy" admired that painting, hung on the far end of the bar room, so we sat beneath it until our table was ready.
The hostess carried our drinks to our table, and we were greeted by a line-up of suited servers & room captains. Kiyo, the Dining Room manager, greeted us, seated us (while someone held my chair) and made sure we were comfy.
We were ensconced at a table big enough for four--but all to ourselves. Plenty of space. We also LOVED how Kiyo kept placing newcomers at the other end of the dining room, so it was like we had a whole part to ourselves. (Yes, my conversation with the reservationist indicated Lewis' birthday and our approaching 6-year anniversary).
Rarely was the room vacant of observant staff. Usually, they lined up behind that prep table (with the bouquet). A dining room captain was ever-watchful to be of service.
Sometimes a small safari of servers lined up and made a quiet procession to clear a table (in unison) or to present plates for a table's next course. Every staff member was elegant, eloquent, observant, and unobtrusive. We were served to by no less than 10 people, and the captain personally attended to our table. He was as ever-present as a respectable butler at a manor house.
I told them we'd probably choose the elaborate Chef's Tasting menu, but Lewis preferred some of the items on the Seasonal Tasting menu instead. I'm not sure if it was deliberate, but the chef sent out several extra dishes--including flavors from her Tasting Menu! What a surprise for Lewis' surprise dinner
The captain navigated us through the Wine Menu, quite rightly agreeing with Lewis for a sparkling wine (able to traverse our varied courses). Thought the entire meal, we sipped sparkling Austrian Gruner Veltliner Brut. He kept our glasses politely full of sparkle. "We don't want you working too hard here," he joked, as he brought the bottle from its chiller behind us. He was charming.
Our first course was a small veal soup, followed by amuse bouche of tartlets--served on sliced logs.
(the artfully-clever plating is similar to Belcanto in Lisbon)
Then came horseradish puffs...
Artisanal breads (glazed Danish brioche and lovely-textured rye) were presented in due time, alongside a slate of hand-churned butters & sea salt.
Next came "crates" of canapés and small potatoes topped with caviar. So rustic and au natural.
Above, our scallop was precision-sliced, intermingled with slivers of turnip and elderberry. Such essence of flavor!
*To see when we tasted the best scallops at another 2-star Michelin restaurant, please use this link:
The next course involved venison, and Lewis was skeptical that he might actually enjoy it.
For the first time, Lewis liked venison... in the form of paté, mixed with duck & juniper. Scrumptious and perfectly firm.
I didn't take pictures of them, but we had a parade of dishes:
Skate and wood-charred broccoli.
Black balls of seasoned Bacon bits (served on a hollowed log).
Potatoes garnished with Anchovies.
A palate cleanser of Grape Sorbet and Meringue (below)...
...prepared us for Mangalista Pork & roasted Rutabaga. It's the "Kobe beef" of pork: a Hungarian heritage breed that is pasture-raised for superb juicy meat.
We added a Scandinavian Cheese course--all from cows, as per Lewis' preference.
Dessert at Aquavit is highly impressive... and plentiful. Sweet stuff for my sweetheart began with Beignets, presented on a bowl of brown sugar.
Next came their tradition of petit-four platters. One platter is made for each table, and you choose as many as you want! We had coconut-dusted brownie, espresso truffles, caramel twists, geléed fruits, and chunks of the pasty chef's chocolate.
Awaiting my espresso, I intended to dart into the restroom. However, I encountered a parade of waiters bringing 3 desserts for us! Leading them, the captain was just about the ignite the birthday candle. So, I sheepishly giggled and hurried back to my seat, so not to disturb their momentum. As the candle arrived at our table, somebody broke a glass in the background. It sounded like a firework of good cheer, in honor of Lewis. None of the servers flinched; they proceeded sublimely. We sang "Happy Birthday", and Lewis' surprised smile was priceless.
Originally only with the Chef's Tasting Menu, I made a special request with Kiyo for the restaurant's famous dessert:
Bird's Nest.
It's carefully made with Gold-leaf, Honey Tuile cookie (nest), Chocolate twigs, freeze-dried raspberries, tempered chocolate (dirt), frozen yogurt (snow), shredded Halvah (feathers), sea buckthorn gel (runny yolks within the goat cheese eggs).
A masterpiece finale! Lewis was sooooooo happy!
We finished with some birch/lemon aquavit.
As a memento to each diner, they give away printed copies of that night's menu (dated) and always a baggie of baked goods
We can't wait to return for the next seasonal menu... or just cocktails at the urbane bar. After all, the bar tender described one of his 3-day-preparation cocktails: black tea, boiled milk (whey & curd), infused aquavit, organic honey and herbals.
*To see our second visit, which was even better, please go here:
*To see our dinner at Berlin's Michelin 2-star Facil Restaurant, please use this link:
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