For Lewis' birthday, we coordinated a weekend getaway. Celebrating with us, our bi-coastal friend, Lee Masters III flew in and prepared his home in Westchester County. He and I asked what Lewis wanted: to be "unplugged", avoid television, and to enjoy historic sightseeing, farm-to-table eateries, and a local cultural event. Done! On Thursday, Lee's plane landed at Hudson Valley Regional Airport (to avoid the nonstop delays at NYC's grossly outdated La Guardia Airport), and he was driven upstate. On Friday morning, Lewis and I took the 7-train to Grand Central Terminal's filthy and neglected subway station.
(Overshadowed and lacking sufficient space for traffic, the exterior is not spectacular either... certainly not compared to overseas cities).
It is embarrassing that this half-decrepit structure is supposed to be the grandest train facility in the wealthiest city in the USA. However, you must remember that the greedily-cheap Vanderbilt (railroad owning) family begrudgingly built it to compete with the grand Pennsylvania Station erected by their competitor. Beforehand, they let a ruinous outdated station serve a burgeoning population--until its death toll from accidents caused an unavoidable uproar. So, don't be surprised that the same uncaring city let the building fall into disrepair (twice) afterwards.
Thankful that they were working, Lewis and I rode up the dirty escalators to buy our Metro-North train tickets in the Main Concourse.
Grand Central Terminal was busy. In typical MTA fashion, the men's room was "out of order", the water fountain was "out of order", there wasn't enough cool ventilation in the downstairs Waiting Area, and the Food Stalls reeked of processed fast-food.
It was mid-February, yet the lazy MTA hadn't yet taken down their December posters.
The veneer of antique marble segues to dank filth, surrounding the train platforms: unpainted/peeling walls, uncleaned tracks, and pitch-black pipes overhead that are caked with grime.
To see the unhealthy filth that overtaxed (and overpaying) New Yorkers tolerate on their trains (and seats!), go to my previous post:
Glad to be leaving such a place (and grateful that the train departed on time), we rode northbound. The train paused for a few stops in The Bronx. The borough's flag is reminiscent of the historic Dutch national flag.
As the train left the borders of NYC, the scenery and passengers changed dramatically. It was suddenly peaceful. As we entered upscale Westchester County (its flag also uses Dutch colors)...
... our minds shifted to anticipating a bucolic retreat.
The hamlet where Lee has his country-home looked exactly as we remembered it.
It had been awhile since we spent time with Lee. During the prior year, he rented his home, named Wixon House, to tenants. Their lease ended on New Year's Day, and they relocated to the Kingdom of Thailand. Thus, many of Lee's personal items were still in boxes in the basement.
As usual, Lee gave his 5-person team a "heads-up" that we were coming to the house. The landscaper cleared fallen leaves/branches from the lawns and swept the pavement. His handymen hauled certain boxes upstairs, so we could use glassware, teacups, towels, and sheets. They put Lee's mattresses back on the beds. Both housekeepers washed linens, readied the 5 bathrooms, and unpacked some boxes. While they finished, Lee picked us up at the town's train station and took us for a lakeside breakfast. Here's our view from the window where we sat.
As if a gift from the Universe, we witnessed the waitresses singing "Happy Birthday" to a nearby table! I assured Lewis that it was a starter gift from the Universe for his birthday weekend. He agreed.
Then, we arrived at Lee's "lake house". Prettily, it is enclosed by forests and a Nature Preserve.
As is Lee's custom, he puts us in the east-facing guest room, for morning brightness. It has its own sitting room, and
"His & His" sinks in the bathroom.
Downstairs, Lewis found a cushy chair, grabbed one of the fringed pillows, and napped in the sun rays. I helped Lee "square everything away" and do some light grocery shopping--for snacks. For dinner, he made reservations at a new local restaurant: a converted farm in Putnam County.
Tilly's Table is truly farm-to-table, possessing fields of veggies, horse corals, peacocks, poultry, and dairy cows. The three of us share a partiality for that type of good food, so it was ideal.
We were delighted that he requested a table by the big fireplace! How perfect for a cold night!
We began with roasted Beet Salad, topped with Gorgonzola. Lewis loved their Maryland Crab Cakes. Lee informed us that the State of Maryland is named for England's Queen Henrietta Maria, wife of King Charles I.
More interestingly, it began as a province that was owned by Cecil Calvert, the Baron Baltimore. Maryland's Anne Arundel County is named for his wife. Baltimore County, Cecil County, and Calvert County are named for him, as is the famous City of Baltimore.
Our pasta course was a superb Penne Vodka with San Marzano tomatoes. For dinner, Lee ordered Rosemary Roasted Chicken, I had wild Mushroom-crusted Beef Tenderloin with Mashed Potatoes, and Lewis dined on thickly-cut Apple-braised Pork Chops. Of course, we all shared.
Lee secretly informed the waitstaff of Lewis' birthday, so when we ordered Tiramisu for dessert, they came out singing.
Aside from the lofty-yet-cozy ambiance, the staff was SO NICE. From hostess, to bus girl, to waitress, their eyes lit up at our compliments. They almost bashfully appreciated our enthusiasm and were so glad that we were enjoying ourselves. As we departed through the front room, even the bartender stopped, turned, and thanked us for coming.
Back at Wixon House, I shook up rye Manhattans, and we sat in the "casual sitting room", facing the gas fireplace.
It was recently Lunar New Year, and Lee proudly showed us his new Chinese Dragan porcelain. Great timing.
Like always, we discussed our partiality for British television shows. Lewis raved about two episodes that featured Britain's historic estates; it is hosted by Julian Fellowes.
Lee and I shared a sideways smile, because we knew that one of Lewis' birthday surprises was getting a tour of a nearby Vanderbilt mansion! Another series that Lewis and I enjoy is How To Cook Well, with Rory O'Connell. In charming ways, it showcases easy recipes that prioritize good-for-you ingredients.
That made Lee smile again, because another of Lewis' birthday surprises was luncheon at the world's premier cooking school! Clearly, we chose "gifts" that were aligned with Lewis' interests.
Lee went upstairs to his bedroom. Not feeling tired yet, Lewis and I moved to the "formal sitting room" and lit a log in its wood-burning fireplace. Lewis tended the fire, and we cuddled until midnight.
I awoke automatically at 6am, and peered at a beautiful sunrise from the bedroom windows. Returning to bed, I woke at a more respectable "vacation hour" of 8:30.
I was still the first one downstairs, and I savored the quiet house for a Zen moment. I heard bluejays outside, and saw a woodpecker on a tree in the backyard.
I brewed some organic Lemon Ginger tea, and sipped it in the library, while admiring Lee's baubles that gleamed in the sunlight.
At 12 o'clock, we drove to the Culinary Institute of America.
Situated on the Hudson River, its campus is beautiful year-round.
As hospitable as their symbolic pineapple over the entrance, a greeter invited us to tour through the corridors of classrooms.
Lewis thought we were just visiting, but in reality, I arranged a surprise luncheon at the CIA's newest restaurant.
Named for France's legendary Chef Paul Bocuse (yes, you can drool now), it is the fourth student-run eatery. The CIA named him Chef of the Century. Last year, Chef Bocuse died at age 91--in the same room above his restaurant where he was born. Known for "correct" tableside service and superb recipes, he encouraged a less opulent way of fine dining: nouvelle cuisine. Begun in 1987, the Bocuse d'Or is awarded like a world championship for cooking. Based in Lyon, he operated four brasseries. But he is world-famous for his restaurant that has a record-breaking 54 years holding a perfect 3-star Michelin rating! That's incredible! He trained hundreds of people who became notable chefs around the globe.
You might know him as the inspiration for the kitchen in the film "Ratatouille". Now, the CIA teaches his techniques and style to America's upcoming servers and chefs. Voila!
Lewis was SO EXCITED to be lunching in the sleek eatery. Notice, the wall sconces are actually chef toques! The tracery ceiling is handsome, too.
Previously, I told the reservationist that it was a birthday celebration, and she surpassed my expectations. She arranged us to have "the best table" with a full view into the glass-enclosed kitchen! How cool! The waiter was gleeful, as he led us to our table, and Lewis was so EXCITED! :-)
The restaurant was nearly full, so it was a coup to snag that table. Lewis had fun assessing how well the cooks, barista, food expeditor, food runners, servers, bussers, and dining room captain performed their duties. Additional entertainment came from "conversation starter" trivia cards on each table.
The staff performed effectively. The host was a "fabulous" young Latino with glossed fingernails and a trendy buzzed haircut, who wore facial foundation. You might expect a guy with a manicure to shun work, but he was perhaps the most hardworking fellow: helping clear tables, pouring wine and water, folding napkins when guests momentarily left their tables, and serving courses. He had the diligent, fast pace of a focused team helper, which I admired.
All of the food at CIA eateries is locally-sourced farm-to-table, with a focus on small-batch, organic, artisanal methods. Since the menu is seasonal, each one is fresh and full of true flavors.
We whetted our appetite with artisanal cocktails (Scotch with Rosemary and soda for me). Unlike our previous CIA meal at the American Bounty Restaurant, that restaurant's menu did not give the sources of the ingredients: names of farms, dairies, cheesemakers, etc. We were told that each ingredient came from an organic, sustainable, small-batch producer in the Hudson River Valley.
My first course was Pâté with Celery Root remoulade--a perfect choice from a French restaurant that makes everything from scratch. Lee enjoyed a soup of Potato & braised Leeks. Lewis began with Duck confit salad, with walnuts and bitter greens.
We were attended to by a team of 4 servers, who "marked the table" between courses with fresh silverware, crumbed the table, refilled water, and let us choose which oven-made breads to have with our perfectly-soft / fresh-churned butter (from an organic creamery). During it all, our main waiter humbly accepted our praise, answered questions about his coursework and aspirations, and shone a great smile of enthusiasm to "a job well done".
Next, I had crispy Trout with baby Brussels Sprouts, Crosne, smoked Yogurt, and Shitake. Lee savored a hearty portion of vegetarian Risotto. They presented the sauce atop Lewis' Pork Tenderloin, with black Barley, charred Carrots, and Guanciale.
We admired the tableside carts for homemade ice cream, but we chose other dessert options.
We sipped French-press coffee, while the staff lit a candle for Lewis' birthday cake. They put it in a cannelé. In addition, a note of thanks was presented with handmade chocolates.
We were too stuffed for a cheese course as dessert, so Lewis selected Le Vacherin: Pine Nut Kulfi popsicle, toasted Orange Brioche, Vanilla Meringue, and Pomegranate sauce. I chose a Mont Blanc Gateaux: Chestnut and brandied Cherry Cake, Vanilla bean Bavarian Cream, and Tangerine sorbet (which had a nice tanginess). We applauded the pastry chef's team!
Our server informed us that Bavarian Cream did not originate in the Kingdom of Bavaria; it was invented by a Parisian pastry chef (born in 1784) named Marie-Antoine Carême.
*We had lots of fun on the culinary campus. To see when Lewis and I toured the campus of Trinity College in Dublin, please use this link:
After a luxuriously-long midday meal, we drove up the road for twenty minutes so Lewis could finally get a tour of the Vanderbilt Mansion in Hyde Park. After we rolled through the gates, Lewis was delighted with the bridge to the mansion.
(Here is my photo of the bridge from an earlier visit).
Built in 1896 by America's famous architects, McKim, Mead & White, the Beaux-Arts masterpiece is worth touring.
Unlike summertime, when tours run every ten minutes, the wintertime only offers tours at noon and 4pm. We had some time to explore the gardens/grounds beforehand. The layout was nice, but winter's muck and mud wasn't nice enough for pictures. Sorry!
Belonging the the federal government, the estate's tours are given by rangers of the National Park Service.
Our taxes provide funding to the National Park Service, which has 3,800 rangers among its 20,000 employees. However, government funds go elsewhere, so it relies heavily on 280,000 unpaid volunteers. We had a real ranger.
Tours began in a building that was initially the Bachelors Quarters. It was built to separate unmarried men from the mansion, so their raucous "antics" didn't disturb--or tempt--the women (guests and servants) in the mansion. (Or it provided a place to enjoy temptation away from the mansion).
Punctually, our tour walked to the mansion. The brisk winter air invigorated us!
Our 14-person tour group included two West Point cadets and a WP instructor. The elite military academy is across the river in Orange County--named for the Dutch Prince of Orange. Its waterside campus looks like this.
While waiting 20 minutes for the tour to begin, I impressed them with my knowledge of their school--from my visit to it in 1991. I'll tell you, too. In addition to being America's oldest (circa 1801), it was built on the site of America's oldest army post: Fort Putnam of 1778. In 1780, its turncoat commander, Benedict Arnold, committed treason by plotting to give it to the British. He was foiled and is still synonymous with "traitor". Its garrison defenses were designed by a Polish/Lithuanian nobleman and engineer, Andrzej Kościuszko, acting as a Brigadier General for America. In fact, long before America finally ended slavery in 1863--as one of the last nations--he donated his U.S. assets to the education and freedom of slaves in America. His friend (U.S. President) Thomas Jefferson wrote fondly, "He is a pure Son of Liberty as I have ever known".
*In case you didn't know, America's Founding Fathers were helped a lot by European nobility... and homosexuals. Gilbert du Motier, the wealthy Marquis de Lafayette was a courtier of King Louis XVI and came to America in 1777 to help the colonial Americans. Appointed a Major General in the Continental Army, he earned a father/son friendship with its Commander-in-Chief, George Washington. A street is named after him in Manhattan (now part of Chinatown), and Lafayette Park is in front of the White House. Both men were chummy with Baron Friedrich von Steuben, a Prussian general in the Seven Years War. Just like the Prussian king, Frederick the Great--whom he served as aide-de-camp--he did not conceal his homosexuality. Enemies arrested him for sodomy, since being gay was illegal. Perhaps because the king had memories of his father forcing him to watch his own male lovers die, Frederick merely banished the baron, to avoid the death penalty. While in Europe, Ben Franklin hired von Steuben as the Inspector General for Washington's army, and he was paired with Alexander Hamilton. His "Blue Book" manual stayed with the American Army for a century! Washington rewarded him with an estate near his own in Valley Forge. There, the baron was "cozy" with two younger men: Captain Benjamin Walker and Brigadier General William North. They all lived together, and the baron adopted them to avoid suspicion. Also recruited by Franklin, a Polish nobleman, Casimir Pulaski, reformed the American Cavalry and saved Washington's life during the Battle of Brandywine. He and the marquis were lifelong friends. Franklin also hired a Hungarian nobleman, Michael Kovats de Fabriczy. After serving Frederick the Great, he helped Pulaski in America. Isn't history fun? :-)
*To see when we visited Frederick's developments in Germany, please use this link:
When the tour began, we were guided past Mr. Vanderbilt's horticulture and global assortment of old trees. Up the steps, we entered the "lobby" of the Vanderbilt's "autumn home". After the foliage faded, that branch of the Vanderbilt family rotated through their five other homes: Manhattan, Palm Beach, Paris, Newport, Catskills... not to mention their seafaring yacht.
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The woodwork, masonry, sculpture, and artistry in each room is exquisitely remarkable. Sadly, each talent is now a "lost art" in America.
Here is the Gentlemen's Gathering Room: rustic woodsy refinement, with German tankards (steins) and hunting rifles.
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The Drawing Room was impressive, equipped with a pair of intricate fireplaces. A drawing room gets its name from its purpose to draw people together.
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The grandly-proportioned Dining Room had a double-fireplace that was reclaimed from papal Medici palaces. When it was fully-extended, the long table could seat 100 guests. Wine-colored curtains "framed" the doorway, full of antique brocade. The coffered ceiling wowed us.
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Lewis astutely noticed a "hidden door" to a secret passage (probably for footmen) in the wall--disguised by the tapestry.
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Next, we viewed the Ladies' Gathering Room.
After that, the ranger guided us up a curvaceous staircase with a velvet-covered banister.
The bathroom wasn't updated since 1910.
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Bedrooms were spacious because people used them as living rooms and offices. Since closets hadn't been invented yet, bedrooms had gigantic wardrobes as furniture (seen below, on the left). In the 1920s, wall-to-wall carpeting was invented, so the family installed it as a flair of modernity.
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The Vanderbilts had a "socially-arranged marriage", so they weren't in love with each other. Therefore, they had separate bedrooms. The "Lady of the House" had one that was evocative of Versailles--including a railing around her bed, which mimicked the ones that French monarchs used.
That is ridiculously unnecessary and bizarre.
Mr. Vanderbilt thought highly of himself as "Lord of the Manor", and his bedroom showed it. Worthy of a sovereign, the kingly Master Bedroom had a crown logo over the bed's pillows, and tapestries covered every inch of the walls.
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This home belonged to the only branch of the money-wasting Vanderbilts that actually increased their fortune. Not enough to challenge banking gangsters like Morgan or Astor, but it helped Mr. Vanderbilt to treat his employees nicely. To see the Servants Hall, we descended a steep stairwell that servants used (separate from the owners and guests).
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Servants ate from their own set of crystal and porcelain, and their rear stairwell had artistically curved steps and banisters. In his will, Mr. Vanderbilt left his grounds supervisor a quarter-million dollars. Many other employees got respectable sums of money. He even kept his walk-in ice box so that local ice suppliers could stay in business.
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The ranger concluded our tour, and we exited as the sunset lit up the mansion walls. It was gorgeous.
The evening light provided excellent silhouette pictures!
We headed home and enjoyed the sunset. Remotely, Lee digitally activated the house's lights and heat while we drove. Parking in the garage, he suggested that Lewis peruse his wine refrigerator. After pondering, Lewis recommended a delightful Sauvignon Blanc from the Southern Hemisphere nation of New Zealand.
We sipped it serenely in the library. I used the setting as a good segue to announce the self-publication of my adventure novel. Here is a link to the e-book:
Lee used his iPhone to instantly purchase a copy!
We made a light meal from snacks and lit a crackling fire. Cheery conversation flowed like wine, until 1am.
Enamored with his birthday weekend, Lewis couldn't wait until the next morning.
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