It was a gorgeous day in Roma! As the capital of the Italian Republic, it is a joy to explore. It is the hub of a vibrant culture. After Germany and France, Italy is the third-most populated nation of the European Union (27 nations), followed by Spain. It is the second-most industrialized EU nation. Despite that, its society keeps a Life/Work Balance, and it cherishes its priceless history—and protects it from demolition or overdevelopment.
Lewis and I rode on the Metro to visit the Spanish Steps: one of Rome's upmarket retail districts. It was a refreshing experience to use a dependable and well-maintained system of public transportation. The facility was clean, and the train came right away.
Unfortunately, we currently reside in America's richest city, which syphons profits and lets its subway deteriorate while being overrun with squalor and disruptions...
Far better, this is what Rome's Metro looks like...
Disembarking at the Spanish Steps, we admired the scenic surroundings of the Piazza di Spagna.
After the Chanel boutique, we entered the Christian Dior boutique, but they didn't have what Lewis wanted. We progressed onward to the famous Valentino flagship store. With 1,865-square-meters, it is the brand's biggest store, and it is alongside the sixteenth-century Palazzo Mignanelli, which is the company's creative headquarters.
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A greeter guided us upstairs to the Men's Shoe section. We discovered that Valentino made his fashion debut in 1959 at the Pitti Palace. The sales associate who assisted us was extremely friendly. Efficiently and graciously, he fetched pairs of shoes for Lewis to try. As a representative of the brand, the fellow was flattered that Lewis owned several pairs of Valentino shoes. I remarked that my Valentino overcoat (double-breasted brown wool) was my favorite and lasted more than 15 years of annual wearing.
The salesman was crestfallen that his superb store was out-of-stock on a pair of sneakers that Lewis loves (he has three pair from that collection). Undaunted, the chipper salesman directed Lewis' interest to something similar. Lewis recognized the strategy. Rewardingly, my sweetheart made a lovely purchase, which will also be a keepsake from our excursion.
While a "selling assistant" tidied up the non-purchased merchandise, the salesman ushered us downstairs to the "cash wrap" (register). Another helpful employee prepared the VAT documents so Lewis could be refunded the tax at the airport. Thanking the trio of employees who made our visit so pleasant, we also waved to the doorman, and retraced our steps to the Metro. We were due to meet people for luncheon.
Lewis has a Turkish friend who relocated to Rome with his American wife: Jem and Juliet. Before our trip, Lewis arranged to spend that afternoon/evening with them. Jem chose for our rendezvous to occur on bridge named Ponte Sant'Angelo, adjacent to the Castle of Saint Angelo.
As I mentioned earlier, Europeans convene on their cities' bridges for socializing... not just to go across. That's because bridges give a special view of your surroundings, and they put you above the calming effects of water. (Do not attempt that on any of NYC's decrepit/congested bridges. To see NYC's bridges, please click this link:
https://halfwindsorfullthrottle.blogspot.com/2021/05/waterfront-properties-in-new-york-city.html
We noticed the city's coat of arms is proudly positioned in various places.
It is emblazoned with the letters SPQR. That is an acronym (in Latin) for "the Senate and the People", which harkens to Rome's ancient history as a republic when everyone was treated equally.
Since antiquity, another popular icon is the Capitoline Wolf: a female wolf that lets twin boys suckle from her. The legend says that the twins, Romulus and Remus, were heirs to King Numitor, circa 746 BC. His bother deposed him and had the boys thrown into the Tiber River. They were saved and raised by the wolf. (Similarly, Moses was cast away in a river but rescued). Eventually, humans adopted them, and the twins became the founders of Rome.
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That logo is blended with the coat of arms, and it is seen on the uniforms and cars of the capital police.
The sun shone overhead, and we arrived punctually. I recalled seeing that cylindrical castle in 1995; it was the first real castle I encountered.
Technically, it was an ancient Roman mausoleum for Emperor Hadrian, who died in 138 AD. When the Roman Empire failed and the Roman Catholic Church took control of the region, they repurposed it as a fortress, papal residence, and pontifical prison. In the early 1300s, Pope Nicholas III connected it to Saint Peter's Basilica via a fortified corridor. During the Sack of Rome, Pope Clement VII retreated to the castle, but it was encircled by anti-pope mercenaries. (He was the pope who refused to authorize a divorce to England's King Henry VIII, which caused The Church of England to break away from Catholicism in 1533). When a plague erupted in the ransacked city, they left, and the pope emerged to start clean-up. As a prison, it hosted executions... and was mentioned in Giacomo Puccini's opera: Tosca. (In 2010, I witnessed Patricia Racette sing the title-role at the Metropolitan Opera).
*Ironically, when Henry VIII was crowned, the pope also bestowed a Cap of Maintenance as a privilege. Despite the religious breakaway, the monarchy of the United Kingdom still possesses and uses the cap—notably during the State Opening of Parliament!
*To learn about a State Opening of Parliament, please use this link: https://halfwindsorfullthrottle.blogspot.com/2020/09/the-majesty-of-prinsjesdag.html
I looked over the bridge and admired the cycle path on the quay of the Tiber River. Surely, that provides invigorating scenery when cycling.
As an ancient landmark, the bridge was erected in 134 by Hadrian. Three of its five arches are original from ancient Rome. In the 1530s, popes instituted tolls, and funds provided the statues on the bridge.
Despite many years apart, Jem and Lewis recognized each other from afar. Joyous hugs ensued. I was delighted to get acquainted with the couple.
They immediately complimented our scarves. Just like Milanese and Florentine men, Romans wear them whenever a chill is in the air. To assimilate, Lewis and I always wore lightweight scarves that color-coordinated with our outfits.
We strolled through Rome's historic lanes: narrow, curvy, and picturesque. Nearly all the buildings in Italy are painted in vibrant colors: many yellows, shades of saffron-orange, a variety of pinks, and they all have red-tiled roofs. Each time we turned a corner, there was a picture-perfect scene.
Jem led us to a charming trattoria on a sunny piazza in the Regola District. It is situated on the widest alley in Rome: Vicolo della Moretta. We saw a well-known Roman fashion designer, Gerardo Giuliva, who founded Sartoria Giuliva. Yes, he truly resembles his online picture: insouciant, urbane, and debonair.
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Accustomed to America, it was remarkable for Lewis and I to walk through a capital city and be at peace. The roads weren't choked with noisy/smelly traffic, and there was an absence of aggressive drivers. There was an absence of noise pollution. People were cheery and friendly to us—even though we were strangers. They waved at us—not to get something from us, but because we were merely passing each other. Europe is full of those types of metropolises. It's how life should be: well-paced, clean, orderly, and courteous.
The trattoria was named È Passata la Moretta.
That means "the moretta (mask of seduction) has passed". The mask originated in Venice to make women sexy/mysterious during "games of seduction". When a lady chose to remove her mask, she revealed the "treasure" of her face to her intended lover.
The owner greeted Jem warmly but cautioned that their kitchen closed in 10 minutes at 3pm. Diners could linger as long as they wanted, and drinks were nonstop, but food preparations paused until dinnertime. Thankfully, the menu was on a large chalkboard-sign, and it was easy to read.
We knew what we wanted to try. Since carbonara sauce originated in Rome, Jem ordered a portion for each of us. The pasta was handmade, and the homemade sauce included the necessary guanciale (not bacon or a pork substitute). It was the yummiest thing we ate that day! We will always remember it!
We boasted to Juliet and Jem that we ate pasta during every day of our trip—just as Italians do! They thought that was splendid, and Juliet compared Italian diets to unhealthy American eating habits. Despite consuming more pasta, bread, wine, sausages, and sweets in Italy, she lost weight... as compared to her overstuffed years in the USA. She attributed that to these facts: food in Italy is made better (sustainably, organically, untainted, unprocessed, unadulterated); people are more active in Italy and aren't afraid of walking/biking; the portion size of a meal is manageable in Italy; Italians eat their foods in a certain order to improve digestion. *Truthfully, we rarely saw an obese Italian during our widespread travels throughout four cities. Overweight people in Italy usually spoke with American accents.
I selected a bruschetta topped with lard and truffles. Yes, artisanal lard is a delicacy, and a thin slice is usually served. It was scrumptious, and I'm glad I tried it! Aware of a good value, Juliet ordered a carafe of the "house white wine", which was locally-made on the Roman hills.
We really enjoyed our languid lunch! Conversations flowed breezily, and the flaming heat-lamp added ambiance. The customers around us kept the young waiter occupied serving more wine, espresso, and grappa.
Nobody seemed in a hurry to pay their bill and leave. Even better, all of the conversations sounded buoyant... not snarky or whining: the proof of happy people! It was fun being around Romans. (It would be ignorant to say that there are no Romans in the modern world. Being "Roman" is not a term for ancient Rome. Anyone living in Rome is a Roman... just like there are New Yorkers, Bostonians, Londoners, Hong Kongese, and Parisians).
At one point, they noticed my ring. Belonging to my grandfather, it features a Roman legionnaire, so it was perfect to wear in Rome. (Lewis had the ring polished and resized for me, as a birthday surprise).
After lunch, we sauntered through the capital, as the couple led us to a special place in the heart of Rome. They chose it as a fun place for Lewis and I to celebrate our 11-year anniversary! That was very sweet of them.
In 86 AD, it was an arena named Circus Agonalis, used for athletic contests and charioteer racing. Occasionally, it was filled with water for naval reenactments—a testament to Roman engineering. After the collapse of the unprincipled Roman Empire, it was reclaimed as a public square. In 1644, (while China's Ming Dynasty ended) Pope Innocent X celebrated his reign in Rome by building a palace for his bastard son. Having a son was indicative of illegal behavior, since Catholic clergy must be celibate. It was another example of nepotism.
In 1651, Gian Bernini was paid by the pope to create the Fountain of Four Rivers. Under a faux Egyptian obelisk, four "river gods" represent the Nile, Danube, Ganges, and Plata rivers. Disdaining the palace, Bernini designed the gods to block their eyes—as if the palace was disgusting. Nevertheless, we noticed some "manhandling" eroticism.
In truth, the whole scene is rather pretty. It was used in Dan Brown's adventure novel, Angels & Demons. Juliet and Jem took us to a sidewalk cafe to sit and drink Negronis while admiring the scene until sunset. Saying "Cheers" in Italian is "Saluti"! It was perfectly natural for them to invest five hours admiring the scenery and passersby, while watching illumination change from fading sunset, to twilight, to streetlights. That is Life/Work balance. As the wise saying goes, "When in Rome, do as the Romans do!" We did! We loved the experience.
Similarly, we heard about an Italian taxi driver who told them that he only worked until 1pm because that provided him with plenty of income, and he wasn't greedy (or compelled by greedy bosses) for more money. Instead, he invested his time having lunch with his relatives, volunteering within the community, and tending his garden. Very satisfying!
We each drank three Negroni cocktails, and we discussed any topic that arose.
As day turned to dusk, people mingled, dinners commenced, and patrol cars circled the square. At nightfall, Lewis' friends offered to escort us to a particular Metro station with an amazing view. Accepting their offer, we strode east. They deliberately chose a scenic route. It's magnificent to walk through a great city and see glorious sites. We don't get that in Manhattan, which is continually overcrowded with nondescript skyscrapers whose only goal is to squeeze more money from ever-smaller spaces.
I gasped with delight when we came around a bend in the road and viewed the ancient Pantheon! Preserved and dignified.
Alas, the historic site was closing punctually, and guards refused our entry. Nonetheless, I stood there and ogled its ancient architectural beauty. I was gobsmacked. In 2004, Lewis entered it and admired the oculus in its marvelous dome that was the world's largest at that time. Here are his photos from that exploration:
Further along, we arrived at a big intersection at the Piazza Venezia. In the 1440s, it was built by a Venetian cardinal who became Pope Paul II.
Facing us, we treasured seeing the Altare della Patria (Altar of the Fatherland). Officially named the Victor Emmanuel II Monument, it commemorates the unification of Italy in 1861, from feudal dukedoms and principalities (similar to Germany) into one kingdom. Victor was its first king.
Symbolically, it is centered in ancient Rome's boundaries, yet the streets that radiate from it connect it to the modern cityscape. It is the headquarters of the governmental Ministry of Cultural Heritage. It is beloved by Italians as a national icon, and Liberation Day, Republic Day, and Armed Forces Day are celebrated there. The site includes a tomb for Unknown Soldiers of World War II, replete with an "eternal flame".
From there, we walked along the Via dei Fori Imperiali . It is named for the city's ancient imperial artifacts that are excavated and on display, on both sides of the road.
Excited by our love of history, Jem pointed out a row of statues of great Roman emperors that were on either side of the road. Each statue indicated the excavated sites of civic developments (Forums) that the emperor built. We were giddy with anticipation to see them!
The Forum of Trajan was built in 105, by Emperor Trajan, using an architect from Damascus. He was previously a general in the Roman Army. He looked like this...
He enriched Rome by conquering the Nabataean Kingdom and expropriating its gold mines. The ruins and remnant foundations of his forum show its original outline: a vast portico-lined plaza, triumphal arch, enclosed market, and concentric streets. Mostly intact and aboveground, the ancient market was the world's first shopping mall. It was built with multiple levels—and a library.
Here are "Then & Now" images of it...
Next, we encountered the Forum of Julius Caesar, circa 46 BC. His fame derives from his heroic conquests, homosexual passions with King Nicomedes of Bithynia (now northern Turkey), tryst with Queen Cleopatra (the pharaoh of Egypt and a superb administrator in a land where women had equal rights), and invention of the Julian calendar (which was used until 1582). His forum had shrines dedicated to himself and Venus: the Goddess of Love, Sex, and Victory. Here are "Then & Now" images...
As nearly everyone knows, Caesar ignored prophetic warnings from a soothsayer, "Beware the ides (middle) of March", and he was famously stabbed to death for trying to make himself emperor when the Roman civilization was still a Republic.
His assassination backfired on the republican senators because Caesar's popularity with the populous prompted them to oust the aristocratic senators and opted to have an emperor. That began the ancient Roman Empire.
*The imperial titles of Czar (Tsar) [in Russia, Bulgaria, and Serbia], and Kaiser [in Germany, Austria, and Hungary], and Kaysar [in Turkey] all derive from the name "Caesar" and indicate an emperor.
Across the street, Jem showed us the ancient Forum of Augustus, which centered around a temple to Mars, the God of War. Here are "Then & Now" images of it...
In 2 BC, it was built by Caesar Augustus (a.k.a. Octavian): the first Roman emperor!
He was the heir to his great-uncle, Julius Caesar, and he was a marvelous leader. He defeated General Mark Antony. He spurred the profitable expansion of the empire—annexing the Egyptian Empire and much of Spain—without incurring large-scale combat. Before he died at age 75, he initiated the renown Roman roadways, the first courier system, the Praetorian Guard, and efficient taxation. He ruled over King Herod's territory of Judaea when Jesus of Nazareth was born, and he deposed the descendant of Herod.
Beside his forum is the main plaza of the Roman Forum, built as the center of daily life for the ancient capital: marketplaces, trials, gladiator games, triumphal processions, and polytheistic temples. In 64 AD, it was infamously damaged during the Great Fire of Rome, which was condoned by Emperor Nero (so he could rebuild it with splendor). People think that he played his violin while Rome burned, but that is false. In truth, he was married twice to men: Pythagoras and Sporus (whom he dressed as an empress). As an openly-gay ruler, Nero had a partiality for puer delicatus, which were literally "boy toys" chosen for sexual attractiveness. Sometimes, he castrated his adult lovers in an effort to preserve their youthful physicality. Nero was succeeded by a gay emperor named Galba.
After that, we saw the smallest forum, the Forum of Nerva, which was unearthed in 1913.
Begun by Emperor Domitian in the 80s AD (the last of the Flavian dynasty), but the tyrant was assassinated by politicians.
Before him, his brother was the emperor for two years. Before them, their father was the emperor for nine years (and commenced the renown Invasion of Britannia via the Thames River). By then, the Roman Empire encapsulated the Mediterranean Sea and much of Europe.
The same day as Domitian's death, the Praetorian Guard (who greedily supported anyone who paid them) promoted his advisor, Nerva, as the next emperor.
He completed his predecessor's Forum in 97 AD... but he only reigned for 16 months. Before his death, the Praetorian Guard forced him to adopt an heir: the young general named Trajan. Reigning for 19 years, Trajan oversaw the greatest military expansion in Roman history; the empire reached its farthest borders and enjoyed the most public building programs.
We were impressed that such archeological treasures existed. With pride and sensibility, whenever a construction project in Rome encounters a historic site or ruin, it respectfully works AROUND it—never destroying it... regardless of the extra costs to the developers. It is understandable that Rome's sobriquet is The Eternal City.
As we progressed along, I noticed a familiar shape looming ahead.
Illuminated by spotlights, the world-famous Colosseum looked as majestic as when it was assembled in 72 AD. Standing 48 meters tall and capable of holding 65,000 people, the limestone amphitheater was created by Emperor Vespasian and completed during the reign of Titus. In 1995, I visited Rome for the first time and entered it to explore its colossal design, arena, and underground labyrinth. It's astounding that it was originally equipped with a collapsable canvas roof, as well as plumbing to create faux sea battles! (Think of modern football stadiums with retractable roofs, and you get the gist of my awe). It was the showplace for gladiators, animal hunts, and gruesomely-creative executions of early-Christians. It is one of the New Seven Wonders of the World.
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Lewis also visited this national monument in 2005. Here are his pictures...
Everyone notices the pockmarks in the cylindrical exterior. Those were filled with metal reinforcements. Tragically, most of the metal was pilfered after the fall of the Roman Empire. Historians argue that large portions were stolen by the Roman Catholic Church for (free) use in its new buildings—to demonstrate its mightiness after usurping Rome's power.
Suddenly, Jem announced that the Metro station (for Lines B and C) was in front of the Colosseum.
Imagine having a thousand-year-old monument at your Metro station during your daily commute! Some Romans are very fortunate! They are equally fortunate that Line C of the Roman Metro system is fully-automated with driverless trains. Line C is the newest. Digging began in 2008, and its three sections opened between 2014 and 2018. That is fast. Some delays occurred in 2009 when builders excavated Hadrian's long-lost Athenaeum. We needed Line B to return to the Roma Termini for our northbound high-speed train.
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Lewis and I recalled how the same urban developments recently enhanced London, Amsterdam, and Copenhagen. Uncaring about its true rating against such places, NYC (America's wealthiest city) refuses to invest in such things for its severely-neglected subway. We thanked Juliet and Jem for the fabulous walking tour!
Just then, a crash of thunder followed a zigzag of lightning, and raindrops began to fall. Thankfully, we were at the Metro station, but we were concerned for our friends because they had to walk back, all the way home. They assured us that it was not an inconvenience because they were delighted that they were able to show us their city, and they were thrilled to spend the day with us. They told us that we exuded very good vibes and positive personas. Around us, we noticed that most Romans disregarded the rain, and few scurried for shelter. If they got wet, their clothes would dry. I was confidant that the drinkers at the piazzas remained, despite the downpour. We were thankful that our umbrellas were never unfurled.
Waving goodbye to our friends, I followed Lewis through the glass gates and down to the platform. The train arrived within one minute.
It zipped along the tracks and deposited us at Roma Termini.
Amidst clean surroundings, we waited for our pre-purchased train ride back to Florence. While pairs of Carabinieri surveyed the area, two squads of Polizia did their duty to check passports of people in the station, including us. Finally, we realized that if we simply passed through the gates to the platform area, we would be spared from a third inspection.
It was nice to use train infrastructure that actually worked: the awnings kept the platforms dry, the station kept most of the wind out; the lights worked; and the Departure Board functioned. In fact, it alerted us that our train was running 5-minutes late. However, the engineer quickly regained that time by speeding up—something that never happens in New York State. Thus, our train departed for Florence on-time!
Arrivederci Roma!
Our return journey was in First-Class, so we returned to plush leather seats and complimentary refreshments. The conductor greeted each passenger in a singsong way: classic Italian exuberance.
The attendant with the trolley handed us bottles of sparkling wine, spring water, salty wafers, nuts, and chocolates. So nice!
We consumed everything and took a serene nap during the 1.5-hour journey (a distance of 162 miles). We were truly refreshed by the time we arrived back in Florence. Our advice is to cherish the speed of rail travel in Italy!
The sky was clear and dry in Florence. We headed to our hotel, but paused at the grocery market to buy more bottled water and another Tuscan wine. As tasty and affordable as store-bought food is in Italy, we craved more freshly handmade food.
Diagonally across the street, we spotted a pizzeria named SimBIOsi Organic Pizzeria. It closed at 11pm, so we had plenty of time for a late dinner.
Opened in 2015, it focuses on organic farming (via natural fertility of the soil) and non-GMO ingredients from small local artisans. Every day, they mix spelt flour, kamut wheat, wheat germ, and whole grains into dough for pizzas.
A cheerful woman sat us near the wood-burning pizza oven, so we could watch the flames do their magic on the dough.
We overheard a couple of Germans thank the woman and the pizza maker for the "best pizza that they ever had"! As if singing, the woman thanked them in English.
Of course, the menu included a Margherita pizza (named for Italy's Queen during her first visit to Naples in 1889). However, we opted for two other types. As an appetizer, Lewis ordered a platter of crostini, topped with liver mousse, marinated chopped tomatoes, and marinated minced mushrooms with cream sauce. The assortment only cost €6.
After that, we each got a "personal-size" pie. Mine had handmade mozzarella, artisanal blue cheese, pancetta, pistachios, and basilica fresco (fresh basil). It only cost €11. At our current home, the price for a pizza would jump to $25, as soon as handmade mozzarella was included! Meanwhile, Italy's handmade mozz is truly a work-of-art! Yet, there is no surcharge for quality; it is the norm.
Lewis' thin-crust pizza was flavored with the same organic mozzarella, handmade sausage, truffle cream, and wild-grown fungi (mushrooms). It cost €9, and the taste was unimaginable! It seemed so simple for the baker to knead the dough and layer the ingredients. That is how "good food" should be. (The labor was applied to growing/harvesting the ingredients). The wisdom is to prepare foods with those ingredients, without trying to be cheap and adulterating them. That is the key to success.
As we munched on our crispy-crust pizzas, we looked up to admire the rustic wood-beamed ceiling. We cherished the ways that dozens of businesses conserved/preserved their historic interiors.
While we ate, we suddenly had a memory from our childhoods: a cartoon named Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles featured characters named for Italy's Renaissance artists: Leonardo, Donatello, Michelangelo, and Raphael. It is similar to how children recognize classical music from hearing excerpts in the soundtracks of Looney Tunes cartoons!
From that era, I was also reminded of my first pizza in Manhattan (during a school trip in 1994). The teachers chose Sbarro Pizzeria because it had the most publicity as the "classic NY slice". It was awful. Employees clapped their hands in front of each customer's face (to make them pay attention) and rudely told them to "give their order and move forward". There was no time to look at the menu; their goal was to get our money quickly. The pizza was soggy and stale. The place was unclean. It epitomized NYC: a lot of hype and publicity for bad quality.
Since then, nearly all of our best pizzas were eaten outside of NY. The one that we consumed in Florence is one of the best!
Thankfully, our hotel was located merely two blocks away. You can truly obtain excellent Italian cooking anywhere in that country, but it's splendid to choose a hotel that is surrounded by it.
Getting into bed, we had the pleasantest dreams! We were full of gratitude to explore Italy's beauty. Buona notte.
Join us in the next part for our finale!
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