It is the 27th year of the reign of Emperor Akihito of Japan, and Lewis and I set out to explore that island-nation. In truth, Japan is a huge archipelago of 14,125 islands. We departed from New York State's biggest airport: JFK. Seen below, it's America's 6th-busiest, but it looks like an outdated dump and is marginally better than NYC's LaGuardia Airport.
We boarded an intercontinental flight to one of the highest-rated airports in the world: Chubu Centrair. "Centrair" is an abbreviation for "Central Japan International Airport". Located in the central part of Japan, it is in the city of Tokoname on the Chita Peninsula. However, our destination was the coastal city of Nagoya, 45 kilometers away. This is the emblem for Nagoya.
Nagoya is the capital of the Aichi Prefecture...
...(in the Chūbu Region), and it is Japan's fourth-largest city, with an urban population of 2.3 million.
Japan has the sixth-longest coastline in the world. Seen above, it reclaimed land from the sea for the development of an awesome airport. Unlike the greedy stagnation of NYC (the most populated city in America), Nagoya actually built a manmade island. Why can't NYC do that? For Lewis and I, it was wondrous to witness a spiffy airport with orderly people and modern facilities.
In addition to a Post Office and free Wi-Fi, it has nursery rooms, child play areas, luggage-wrapping center, medical clinic, prayer rooms, changing rooms, a bathhouse (with view of the runway), sauna, spa, and 60 eateries!
For locals who fly often, there is a Dry Cleaner where they can drop-off during departure and pick-up upon their return. To answer inquiries, there are four Information Desks and uniformed Airport Ambassadors throughout the facility (who are actually friendly to help you).
*Another local example of ingenuity is Oasis 21, seen below: a subterranean shopping center/bus terminal with a glass roof that is full of water to keep things cool in summer.
Please remember that Nagoya was decimated into obliteration from aerial bombing during World War Two.
Yet, it was rebuilt more splendidly—and faster—than American cities (that were unharmed during WWII or the last century) are maintained. It is a sense of efficiency and a lack of corruption.
Regarding languages, the USA doesn't have one standard greeting. Different regions say Hello, Hi, 'Sup, Howdy, Hey, Hey ya'll, Yoohoo, Yo, and (oddly) How's it going? (even though they don't care to hear your answer). In Japan, people use the greeting Konnichiwa. Friends might say Yaa. Everyone bows to each other as a customary form of respect and endearment. Enthused people might bow a few times. It happens quickly, without interrupting the flow of conversation. We got accustomed to it easily.
A linguistic coincidence is that "Hi" in English sounds like "Yes"/"Affirmative" in Japanese.
Shirlyn is our Singaporean friend who lives in Nagoya. Seeing Lewis, she yelled, "Lou Chan!" Instead of saying "Louis", she says "Lou Chan". (Adding "chan" is an endearing way of saying someone's name. It is the equivalent of Spanish speakers saying "papa" as "papacito"). In Japanese, Lewis' name is said as "Rui". My name is "Kenesu". ("Kenneth" originated with ancient Gaels to mean "handsome lord born of fire". "Lewis" has Frankish-Germanic origins to mean "loot-carrying warrior").
Lewis asked where she parked her car? But she explained that most people ride the Centrair train from the city to the airport. It's so convenient. We were impressed because none of the airports servicing NYC are connected by trains. Despite having some of the world's worst traffic congestion and air pollution, NYC resists adding rail infrastructure to its airports. (In Japan, high-speed ferries take people across the bay. Despite both of its airports being against water, NYC uncaringly hasn't added ferry routes either).
She escorted us through the airport's swanky Arrivals Gate and scooted us to the Express train. It is operated by Nagoya Railroad, which began in 1921. Its routes are nicely interconnected and include loops, so there is ease of movement.
Despite being the year 2016, New York's railroads begrudgingly refuse to connect areas; they are only intended to greedily funnel workers to Manhattan. They don't care about helping citizens get from east to west.
We were awestruck by the modern beauty of the trains!
I'll explain why we were impressed by something that seems basic in most of the world. Living in NYC is twice as expensive as Nagoya, yet its public transportation looks like it belongs in an impoverished third-world country.
In Japan, trains arrive frequently, and they are on-time. That is great. We boarded one to Nagoya Meitetsu Station.
Each ticket cost 870 yen (¥870), which equals $6.00. First Class tickets are only $4.00 extra, but we were content with regular seats.
The Japanese Yen is the world's third-most-used currency. As you see printed on the banknote below, the word for Japan in Japanese is Nippon.
First Class cars have swivel armchairs that automatically turn in the train's new direction! Conscientiously, such mechanisms were installed—at a cost for the railroad—for their passenger's better enjoyment. Nice!
The rest of the train resembled a first-rate subway (with luggage racks near the straphanger handles), and we sat there.
All of Japan's railroads employ smartly-uniformed staff who are attired in jackets, visored hats, and white gloves. Yes, "white glove service". Like traditional station attendants, they blow whistles and wave signal-flags to announce departures. As a formality, they bow when the trains depart from the platforms. So respectful! Does that happen at your local station?
The train glided quickly and smoothly into the station, and it rolled to a gentle stop. Transportation as it should be. Even though it's in an urban hub, the station was spotless. Look at the floor and platform! Is your local station as clean as that?
So much in Japan is superior to what we have in America! More economical, orderly, clean, courteous, consumer-friendly, fuel-efficient, and well-thought-out. I was surprised... probably because America brainwashes its public with unflattering images of the Japanese—just like it does with any nation that "gets it right" better than the American govt / industries does. That's why we travel: to see what really exists.
For example, there are public vending machines—neither damaged nor vandalized—illuminated at night, under weather-protecting shelters... for local residents' convenience... in the middle of purely residential neighborhoods.
Solar-powered blinking LED lights make drivers aware of intersections and curving roads. Great technology!
We viewed the bus timetable because Shirlyn was getting us acclimated for the next 2 days, while she went to Tokyo for business. (She works for Narumi: makers of bone-china and porcelain. In 1938, Narumi's first factory was built in the Narumi part of Nagoya). Years ago, Lewis befriended her when she lived in NYC. Disliking the corrupt/overpriced city, she returned to Asia and lived in Shanghai, where we saw her during our trip through China in 2014. You can see it here:
Her fluency in Japanese and her high sales achievements won her a transfer to her company's headquarters in Nagoya.
She also handed us a list of suggestions for local sightseeing. I was amazing with the quality of planning that she did for us. An Excel spreadsheet had multiple tabs to show us the trains/buses/subways that we would need, their timetables, maps of their routes, and tourism places of interest. Such thoughtful orchestration was great!
The city is served by an excellent Metro system, and we used that later in our journeys.
To travel from the station to Shirlyn's home, we hired a taxi. In Nagoya, there are three sizes of taxis. Japan does not have the custom of tipping, so gratuities are not expected. Shirlyn proudly informed us that, unlike America, Japanese cabbies are honest and passengers are not cheated. Also, the rear doors of taxis open and close automatically... regardless if the car is new or older! That was cool! It's a hassle-free form of hospitality for passengers... indicative of Japan's culture.
The city is served by an excellent Metro system, and we used that later in our journeys.
As we arrived at her lovely apartment: second floor of a 2-level condominium. She had an extra key-pass for us. Her front door uses a keypad or chip-reading card entry...
...and a surveillance camera takes pictures of whoever rings her door chime).
As a sensible and clean society, Japanese people remove their shoes indoors. We agree with that, and we do it at home in NYC. Despite it being sanitary, it is considered abnormal in America, where people walk on the filthiest pavement and then wear their shoes inside... often putting them on furniture and beds! We prefer Asian sensibilities.
...and a surveillance camera takes pictures of whoever rings her door chime).
As a sensible and clean society, Japanese people remove their shoes indoors. We agree with that, and we do it at home in NYC. Despite it being sanitary, it is considered abnormal in America, where people walk on the filthiest pavement and then wear their shoes inside... often putting them on furniture and beds! We prefer Asian sensibilities.
Shirlyn had "guest slippers" for us to wear indoors. She let us use her queen-sized bedroom, while she set up a portable mattress in her living room. Her living room was divided in half with a Japanese-sliding-door, to gain space or make part of it private. Made of wood and paper panels, sliding doors are classically part of Japanese interior design.
Another impressive fixture that we loved was the bidet. EVERY SINGLE bathroom/lavatory that we saw (train station, bar, restaurant, food shack, public restroom) had toilets equipped with a bidet. So lovely! (Every gay bar around the world would have these!) At Shirlyn's home on that November evening—after our 12-hour flight, her heated toilet seat and bidet was a welcome treat. Such Japanese conveniences are standard features that most American luxury homes do not come equipped with.
When you think of the Panasonic brand, you don't think of them manufacturing toilets, but they do a splendid job. Also, many Japanese homes put toilets in smaller rooms that are separate from the bathrooms.
When you think of the Panasonic brand, you don't think of them manufacturing toilets, but they do a splendid job. Also, many Japanese homes put toilets in smaller rooms that are separate from the bathrooms.
In her sleek kitchen, Shirlyn prepared a delicious Matsusaka Beef dinner (seen below). Raised under strict regulations in the Matsusaka region, it is one of the three Wagyu (black cattle) Beef. The others are Kobe and Omi. Only 2,500 of those cows are slaughtered per year, so their meat fetches a higher price. Yet—being accustomed to outrageous American prices—we thought it was fairly-priced with great value.
Before eating, people in Japan say a phrase of thanks, "Itadakimasu". It means "We humbly receive", and it is spoken similar to the way that Spanish and French cultures say "Good appetite". Yet, it also provides thanks to the ingredients and for the people who prepared the meal. It's a lovely way to begin.
Notice how affordable it is, compared to Wagyu that is grown in the USA. (12 ounces cost $295 at Manhattan restaurants). Things in America tend to have unnecessary mark-up of prices. The true Wagyu from Japan is given a higher price by American authorities when it is sold in America to make it less desirable than American beef (of lesser quality and industrial processing). In fact, beef only became part of the Japanese diet when Japan started fashioning itself after Great Western Powers like Prussia and England in the mid-1800s. It did that to avoid being drugged like China was, via European opium drug-trafficking. However, since the cattle was bred as work-animals for centuries, their genetics produced a wonderful texture for tasty beef. It practically melted in our mouths. Its marbleized appearance is due to its intramuscular fat content.
We sipped glasses of world-famous Japanese whiskey. Japan started distilling it in 1870, and it is similar in craftsmanship to Scotch whiskey... and nothing like American bourbon whiskies (which—despite their various labels/prices—are mostly all made in the same huge facilities) Since 2000, Japan's won global acclaim in blind tasting contests. Producers go to great lengths to chose appropriate terrain, climate, and small-batch methods. Shirlyn poured us 12-year-aged Yamazaki: the oldest distillery.
Such a pairing was luxurious. That single malt whiskey (especially the 18-year-old) won Best Award at international competitions in 2005, 2007, 2013, 2015, and this year! Created from the world's best barley, 80% matures in sherry casks and 20% in Mizunara oak casks. Its darkly fruity/oaky flavor matched the steak's richness and helped its strong flavors on the palate. To say "Cheers" in Japanese is Kanpai!
Afterwards, a local autumn favorite, chestnuts, were made into sweet desserts (seen below) by a local dessert shop!
We also enjoyed pineapple cakes from the island-nation of Taiwan, which were bought at her local supermarket! Read their quality statement, below; it's worth reading. Click on the image to make it clearer.
*To see the previous dinner that we ate with her, during her visit to Manhattan, please use this link:
As a gracious hostess, Shirlyn apologized again that she would be gone when we woke in the morning. We assured her that we would be fine on our own. We intended to take a local bus to the train station, then proceed to Inuyama to visit its 16th-century fortress. The fortress is only a 12-minute stroll from the train (see below). The surrounding medieval village is preserved and presents plenty of sightseeing/eating options.
Shirlyn informed us that Japanese buses are ALWAYS on time. Great! To a pair of Americans, that seemed like a miracle!
We had so much to look forward to. We all slept soundly in her peaceful neighborhood.
A new day dawned gloriously over Nagoya.
Fully recharged, we awoke in the morning amidst the 27th year of Japan's Heisei Era. I'll explain. The Japanese calendar includes a nengō (era name). Era names began in the Empire of China in 140 BCE and were adopted by the Empire of Japan in 645 AD. By law, the first year of an Era Name begins upon each emperor's ascension to the Throne, and it ends on December 31. Therefore, "Heisei 27" indicated the 27th year of the current emperor's reign, and the name "Heisei" was chosen to describe the timeframe of his reign.
Already acclimated with Shirlyn's kitchen, I brewed tea and cooked breakfast for us.
With the balcony's door open for a cool breeze, Lewis and I chatted about our agenda for our day-trip. After showering, we walked to the bus stop. It was a lovely day with temperatures rising to the low 70s (and slipping to low 50s at night), so we didn't mind waiting outside for the bus. We didn't wait long. Exactly on-time, the bus arrived! We were astounded because that doesn't happen in the USA. I spent three years of my life relying on buses in NYC, and it was miraculous if they arrived on-time! Yet, evidently, it is possible elsewhere in the world.
It was wonderful to use public transportation that followed a schedule. The fact that it was clean and orderly was equally impressive! If you have a MetroCard, you merely tap-and-go on the sensor—to save time instead of inserting your card in a machine. (We're still waiting for NYC to install a system like that).
If you don't have a card, you press a button on a different machine, and it dispenses a ticket... as seen below.
When disembarking, you insert your ticket by the driver, and the machine tells you how much you owe (which you can also find out online, in advance, as we did). I must say that we were impressed with the uniforms on every bus driver: white shirt, necktie, white gloves, and a hat with a visor. The whole ensemble is worn as a mark of pride, because being a bus driver is an important role in the community, and drivers dress for it.
Coming from America, we never receive such spiffy service! The last time that Americans saw a bus driver wearing a hat and jacket was in a 1950s television show titled The Honeymooners.
We admired the handsomely-attired bus drivers in Japan. They were pleasant, courteous, helpful, patient, and reliable.
We exited at the train station.
We used a ticket machine; a touch-screen identified the cost of (how many passengers) to our destination. All the machines offer assistance in English, too! Insert the monied amount, and a prepaid ticket is dispensed.
Faster than a NYC turnstile, they have card-reading machines that either read your Metrocard or read your inserted ticket.
In the next part, ALL ABOARD the Japanese railway to Inuyama Castle! Let's travel there!
Faster than a NYC turnstile, they have card-reading machines that either read your Metrocard or read your inserted ticket.
In the next part, ALL ABOARD the Japanese railway to Inuyama Castle! Let's travel there!
I must add that my hair stylist also loved these segments! In fact, while with a client who pondered visiting Japan, my stylist used his own iPhone to show my blog to the man. During the haircut, the client loved my pictures/descriptions, and they convinced the man to make a trip to Japan!
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