Our (red) train was due to arrive momentarily.
As we waited for it, we remained impressed with our surroundings. Lewis and I were amazed at how clean the train station was! No gum or dirt on the platforms! Why can't our city do that?
Small signs (below) indicate where the numbered cars will line up.
Compare that to the NYC subway near my home, below.
A much bigger/richer city like NYC can't maintain the wherewithal to keep itself clean? That is clearly a sign of corruption/decay. Hence, Lewis and I appreciated Japan!
Japan's rail system is one of the very best. It began in 1872, just after the Edo Period. ("Edo" was the earlier name for Tokyo). Now, its extensive network moves 12 billion passengers per year with an on-time performance measured in mere seconds! Their subways and trains are precise, clean, and highly-reliable. We admired many types of commuter trains.
Here is something unexpected: Until 1972, Kisha Seizo was a Japanese manufacturer of railway "rolling stock" for subways and Metro trains around the world. Then, it merged with Kawasaki Heavy Industries. In 1983, that company was hired to supply NYC with subway trains. Sadly (and embarrassingly for America's richest city), those trains are STILL used in NYC, which forces overpaying riders to use 33-year-old trains that lack digital signs and have barren air-conditioning. Other trains from Kawasaki in 1988 are imposed by NYC on its overtaxed citizens, who lack the comforts that other civilized cities have. Tragically, Lewis and I are compelled to use trains from 1975 for our daily commutes... despite paying enormous rent to live "near the subway" of the USA's wealthiest city! What city makes passengers use trains that are 41-years-old?! Yet, NYC pretends to be a "first-world" city! We were thrilled to be away from that.
At every station, arrival signs were written in Japanese and English. Unlike NYC transit systems, Japan provides analog clocks at every station.
It was also nice to see a dutifully helpful conductor--spiffily attired, who helped us identify the right train. Every station has them.
Before departure, platform attendants and drivers do a "point-and-call" to check for any obstacles.
Our train was an older model, but look how immaculate!
Compare that to NYC's outdated MetroNorth trains from the 1970s and 1980s (at triple the cost!)...
...and NYC's "newest" subway cars, seen below...
...filthy with rubbish, dirt left on the walls, homeless men making "curtained bunks" on subway seats... all signs of the corrupt MTA system... uncaring since the 1970s.
To see what NYC's dilapidated commuter trains look like, please click this link:
Needless to say, we savored our train ride! The layout of the train provided a bonus: we could see out the front at the oncoming scenery. Very cool! Our excursion commenced with a comfy and scenic ride to the border of the prefecture.
Interestingly, at the last stop (the castle-town of Inuyama), the train crew went through each car and flipped all of the seat-backs, so passengers had a nicer forward-facing view for the return trip. Considering that it was an older train, it signifies that such thoughtfulness has been in existence for decades.
*If you want to see Japan's Seven-Minute Miracle of Cleanliness on trains, go here:
We disembarked at our destination and noticed a peculiarity with how Japan marks its shrines; they use a Swastika. Before the German Nazi's perverted its symbolism, it was a sign of good luck in many cultures. Japan ignores Germany's misuse of the ancient emblem, and it marks the locations of shrines on maps with swastikas, too.
*To see our trip to modern Germany, please use this link:
Lewis and strolled on the elevated riverside walkway (above the quay) toward the castle.
It is perched atop a mountain, to provide a commanding view of any boats on the river. Only 12 castles remain in Japan, and five were bestowed with National Treasure status (the most precious Tangible Cultural Properties). The oldest is Inuyama Castle. As we ascended the mountain, the suspense increased.
Operating purely on the Honor Code (many of these exist throughout Japan), a Farmer's Stand was set up along the walkway--with nobody watching. Based on trust, buyers were expected to take items and leave the appropriate money in the jar. Lewis and I love seeing things like that! It's indicative of a harmonious society.
A pedestrian's mountain-spring water fountain was nearby.
The mountain road curves around a manmade river/moat. (Below, notice the pattern of cobblestones making the walls).
Nearing the fortress/castle, small shrines defy the decades.
A Dragon Fountain stands ready to cleanse visitors.
From there, we went uphill to the gatehouse. The outer walls of the castle were dismantled in 1868, but the inner ones remain.
The castle was erected in 1440 but was revamped many times. Its perfectly-fit stone walls were built in 1537 by Oda Yojirou Nobunaga: one of Japan's greatest samurai warriors. Its watchtower, barracks, and arsenal "keep" are preserved.
In 1871, the castle's lord lost political and military status, as the clan system was abolished in favor of new prefectures. It was just as well, because the 1891 Nobi Earthquake damaged the castle. It was restored in 1965 during the Shōwa Period.
As was the respectful custom, we removed our shoes to explore the interior... intact since the Edo Period.
What a commanding view from the parapet! It overlooked the Kiso River and the neighboring Gifu Prefecture.
Any boat on the river can see the castle looming ahead.
We also had a nice view of the other structures in the courtyard.
How those Japanese leather-amour-clad warriors used such steep stairs (with tall steps) and small doorways is amazing.
We cutely paused at the Sanko Inari Jinja shrine. Its rows of red timber gates were beautiful, and it is a popular "relationship destination" to make lovey-dovey wishes.
Before entering any temple, visitors "cleanse" at a purification fountain. At the temple, they donate a coin, bow deeply twice, clap twice (to ward off bad spirits), then ring a bell by tugging its rope (to gain the deity's attention). After prayers and offerings of incense, they respectfully bow again.
Some folks (and perhaps more gay men) might already know about Inuyama's Hōnensai Fertility Festival, fondly called a "Penis Festival". For 1,000 years, such matsuri (festivals with processions) occur around Japan on March 15. It's fun for the whole community, as they reverently parade phallic symbols and sell "shaped" merchandise. We weren't there for it, but it looks like this...
Certain matsuri involve guys wearing a centuries-old loincloth called a fundoshi. Existing more than a millennium, the undergarment was first mentioned in a story published in 720 AD. In an egalitarian way, it equalizes everyone. In an enticing way, a fundoshi adds "fun" for spectators (like us) who appreciate nice-looking legs and buttocks.
During "cleansing rituals", the men are topless.
Yes, Japan is very interesting.
From the castle, we explored the medieval-era village, full of eateries, food stores, gift shops and private homes. A castle and its village have a special relationship, and that pair is cozily adorable. Old buildings give it a sense of history. It is clean and tidy. These are images from its main street: Honmachi-dori.
In those photos, please notice that the streets are immaculate. Japan made the effort to foster a self-respecting society that doesn't litter. Lewis and I saw people take their trash with them, instead of abandoning it in public (as Americans uncaringly do). That sensibility applies to cigarette butts, which smokers put in pocket-size ashtrays (haizara). These were the common varieties...
Nobody drops rubbish on the ground. For Americans, it seemed miraculous. For Japanese, it's normal. A glorious result of their teamwork is a spotless culture that instills pride.
Inspired by outfits we saw (above), Lewis entered a shoe store and bought a pair of wooden sandals called geta. They were hand-crafted, and had rubber-tips, so they won't scuff our wood floor at home. The elderly proprietress was lovely throughout Lewis' browsing and the eventual fitting.
Incidentally, the term for "Please" is Kudasai (said at the end of the sentence), and "Thank You" is Arigatō (often said with a slight bow of gratitude). If requesting something--like a beverage or taxi ride--you end with Onegaishimasu (please do me that favor), instead of Kudasai.
*Note: I wear them, too, and we both enjoy their surprising comfort. They were a wonderful ¥1500 ($13.80) investment... and an impressive memento.
The shopkeeper was customer-oriented: respectful, polite, and non-pushy. She spent 20 minutes with Lewis, trying different models, stretching the cords for him, and chatting with his limited Japanese language-skills. Lewis felt bad that she knelt so often, but she insisted--claiming that it kept her limber. She liked us so much that she left her shop to walk to the next street and show us the way to a Noodle Shop that we couldn't find. With a deep bow from the waist, she thanked us. Then, as we lunched on perfect hand-pulled noodles, she came back and approached our table to give us some candies. So cute!
*The usual ways to say "Goodbye" in Japanese is Mata ne or Jaa ne. People only say Sayōnara if they don't expect to see each other... like the French say Adieu, instead of Au revoir.
The Noodle Shop was a historic building (notice the thick rafters). It was cozy, with jazz trio music playing on the stereo.
During our time in Japan, some restaurants politely offered me utensils because they assumed I was a typical American who couldn't use chopsticks. I always wowed Japanese restaurateurs with my perfect use of chopsticks (they are not hard to use). :-) If Japanese eaters use utensils, they smartly keep the fork in the left hand and the knife in the right. We do that, too, but most Americans obstinately retain the inconvenient method of shifting the fork between the left and right hands. America might be the only country that still does that (and resists the universally-accepted metric system).
Notice the wooden sideways spoon, below! Their clever design makes it easy to sip, and they are ergonomic to hold.
Unlike the crappy (instant) ramen popularized in America, Japan's ramen is made with freshly-pounded noodles, fresh veggies, and a broth flavored with (12-ingredient) miso. Organically made, miso usually ferments for 30 days before use. Japan developed its art of making ramen noodles from China... but nobody is certain when.
Lewis' meal included burdock root broth with shrimp, and mine was made with cheese and kimchi broth.
Further along, I saw a sun-lit Juice Shop, purveying fresh fruit juice from across Japan. It looked refreshing! I bought 2 bottles of Mandarin Orange juice and 3 artisanal Apple juices: ¥370 ($3.40) each. You won't get that fair price at any American orchard or orange grove, and costs will be higher at tourist sites equivalent to that castle-town. (Each juice was delectable).
A gaggle of trendy Japanese girls drew our attention to a sleek Takoyaki shop with rooftop seating near a guitar player.
Everything was immensely pleasant. All around us, Japanese people lived by their notion of ikigai. That concept involves pleasurable fulfillment and convivial comfort. It includes a Life/Work Balance and pausing in your routine to appreciate "small things". It explains the inner contentment and longevity of Japanese people. Lewis and I loved it!
To see when we experienced the Danish version of hygge, please use this link:
Returning to the train station, we noticed Daishoji Narita-san Buddhist temple, accessible across the tracks. Nobody else was there, so we enjoyed the setting sun against its historic and sacred grounds... just the two of us! It was serene.
Buddhism was officially introduced in Japan in 552 BC, during the Asuka Period. After Shintoism, it has the most participants (some practice both). Like many of America's "founding fathers", Shinto is animistic. It has a focus on Nature.
Transferring trains homeward, we admired passengers' restraint and cooperation to wait in line for their trains. People remained orderly within the painted lines on the platform. So easy to do. No pushing or shoving. Why can't Americans do that?
*To see when Lewis and I visited a castle-town in Ireland, please click this link:
From the station, we took a taxi to a restaurant that was a walkable distance to Shirlyn's home.
The swank place was delicious, presenting warm moist towels for our hands, as we sat down (as is the custom everywhere).
Afterwards, we went next-door to an upscale Hand-drip Coffee Shop. Suddenly, our waiter hurried after us... to give us the 4 pennies that we'd forgotten there. I admired how he did so much legwork for karmic honesty and dutifully-good service!
The coffeeshop was wonderful.
The coffee shop staff offered us a stool so our shopping bags wouldn't touch the floor. Classy.
Seen above, I loved the Hoshino brew, and the "Monteblanc": a cake with cream filling and nicely-laid strings of icing.
That night, we saw several homes decorated for Halloween. Nagoya is one of the few communities that celebrates that "Western" holiday. In the downtown area, there was a costume parade. Local bars advertised Costume Contests, and clusters of partygoers were festive.
*Years later, we witnessed Halloween being celebrated on the other side of the continent, in Finland. To read about that, please click this link:
*To see impressive Halloween costumes, please use this link:
After a sound sleep (adjusting to the new 12-hour time zone difference), we were ready for an even busier day. Join us for it in the next segment!
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