Most of the time, when you request tea in Japan, you will get green tea. You can also dissolve matcha powder (pulverized green tea leaves) in milk. Coffee gained popularity in Japan in the 1960s, but tea is a mainstay.
Since 1543, tea, silk, lacquerware, porcelain, and rice were the main trading exports from Japan to Europe. Initially, Portugal and the Netherlands had a lucrative business there, but the Catholic Portuguese also focused on converting people to Christianity, propagating Catholicism, and badmouthing Japanese traditions. (Similar to what happened in South America). A dispute arose, and other Catholic European nations got involved. Only the Dutch defended the Japanese to quell it. In return, the Japanese made the Dutch East India Company its sole trading partner to distribute things in Europe and India. The Dutch exchanged science, medicine, artillery, and books. With regulated prostitution, Japan designated specific "women of pleasure" to the Dutchmen. That trusting relationship endured for centuries: 1641 to 1853. Then, America sent warships, and a bloated man named Commodore Perry forcibly demanded access.
Since 1543, tea, silk, lacquerware, porcelain, and rice were the main trading exports from Japan to Europe. Initially, Portugal and the Netherlands had a lucrative business there, but the Catholic Portuguese also focused on converting people to Christianity, propagating Catholicism, and badmouthing Japanese traditions. (Similar to what happened in South America). A dispute arose, and other Catholic European nations got involved. Only the Dutch defended the Japanese to quell it. In return, the Japanese made the Dutch East India Company its sole trading partner to distribute things in Europe and India. The Dutch exchanged science, medicine, artillery, and books. With regulated prostitution, Japan designated specific "women of pleasure" to the Dutchmen. That trusting relationship endured for centuries: 1641 to 1853. Then, America sent warships, and a bloated man named Commodore Perry forcibly demanded access.
America considers that brutality to be a success.
A year later, King Willem III of the Netherlands gifted a Dutch battleship to Japan and shared world-famous Dutch naval know-how to train Japanese sailors. That's something for you to ponder as you sip your next cup of Japanese tea.
Shirlyn resides in Midori: the largest of 16 boroughs (wards) in the city. Enjoying the breezy sunshine, Lewis and I explored it. We strolled a few blocks to a coffeeshop that I found online: a place Shirlyn had never known about! (My good deed for her).
Along the way, we admired Shirlyn's condo complex: illuminated bike shelter, polished stone outdoor seating, and a walled garden. Her neighbors grew persimmon trees and orange trees.
The angular walls of the garden reflect the style of the nearby ancient castle walls.
Her neighbors' homes are geometric in design, all with walled gardens and gate entrances—allowing trees & plants to offer contrasting round/wavy shapes.
We took the swiftly-moving train to Jingu-Mae Station to visit the famous Atsuta Shrine.
In America, they raze forests. Japan savors old trees.
The hugely towering stone lantern, below, looks like a forgotten relic amidst the jungle... but it's probably still used.
We exited at the City Hall fountains. Below is the fantastic subway station canopy. Such detail!
Touring the castle's Tea Garden, we enjoyed its historic artistry.
Below, notice the thin layers of Kokera shingles: Japanese cedar wood cut to three millimeters thick, then hammered with bamboo nails, and built from bottom to top.
Look at the gold-leaf pressed into the boards! It's all made from Hinoki Cypress, grown in Kiso.
Eventually, I got accustomed to the low ceiling height (historically accurate for that ancient time).
Effervescent performers sang outside in the plaza, and snappy-looking security guards and police officers patrolled the stores.
The convenience of precooked fish was nice, and I love cooked pumpkin: roasted, sautéed, or stewed!
We finished with tasty persimmon tarts. After our meal, we enjoyed the novelty of having a server provide us with a handheld credit card reader, so our card never left us. That modern method is ignored where we live.
Along the way, we admired Shirlyn's condo complex: illuminated bike shelter, polished stone outdoor seating, and a walled garden. Her neighbors grew persimmon trees and orange trees.
The angular walls of the garden reflect the style of the nearby ancient castle walls.
Her neighbors' homes are geometric in design, all with walled gardens and gate entrances—allowing trees & plants to offer contrasting round/wavy shapes.
They even had a turntable to help with parking! So helpful.
Soon, we arrived at the coffeeshop.
The owner of Tato Coffee was extremely friendly, even though we were from another country and not regulars. With a gracious bow, we greeted each other, and I ordered a pour-over coffee, and Lewis got an iced latte.
American baristas expect you to linger near them so you can retrieve your beverage when they yell your name. You bring the drink to your seat, and you are expected to carry away the dirty dishes. Those baristas also expect gratuities of $1-2 per drink. In Japan, baristas invite you to choose a seat, and they politely deliver your beverage to you. Since you are the guest, they expect you to leave your dirty dishes, and they will clear them away. Your priority is to enjoy the experience. Japanese baristas do not expect gratuities. They do their jobs superbly because it's the right way to behave. Which culture do you prefer?
Included in the price of our $4.50 beverages came thick slices of buttered toast (fresh bread) and a hard-boiled eggs... supposedly a long-standing Japanese breakfast custom. Their background music was like a Henry Mancini big band.
My coffee came in a handsome pot, on a wooden coaster, alongside a warmed cup/saucer. A glass of water came on a leather coaster. Notice the perfect-sized mini creamer (above) and the curet of simple syrup (below) so pre-melted sugar would diffuse easily in the drink. All of it is so thoughtful.
I even admired the gun-metal coffee spoon!
All for that for $4.50 each, tax and tip included! Starbucks can't compete with that!
We also admired the contactless payment systems that are installed throughout Japan: big and small businesses. Such modernity is severely absent in much of the USA. (Many Americans still pay with cash and coins, and some write checks to pay for groceries or merchandise).
We took the swiftly-moving train to Jingu-Mae Station to visit the famous Atsuta Shrine.
As we walked to the shrine, Lewis loved the perfectly-clean public telephone booth—a rarity in our own country.
Atsuta Shrine (熱田神宮) was founded in 130 AD during the reign of Emperor Keiko. Every year, it attracts 9 million visitors. Since ancient times, its upkeep was ensured by donations from people who are enamored to assist it. It is the home to the Five Great Kami (gods) of Atsuta, and they are venerated highly.
Entering the shrine's park, we admired how Japanese culture preserves Nature and builds around it, rather than over it.
As a Shinto shrine, it is the most-revered holy place, aside from the Great Shrine of Ise (which we planned to visit). Of amazing significance, it houses the Sacred Sword of Prince Yamato Takeru (born in 72 A.D. as son of Emperor Keiko), considered one of the "Three Sacred Treasures of Japan". The treasures are guarded and have never been seen, except for emperors and Shinto priests. In Japan's modern constitutional monarchy, they are enshrouded/presented during enthronements. The sword is named Kusanagi-no-Tsurugi. It was bestowed from heaven by a kami god named Susanoo, who was famous for slaying an eight-headed dragon. A brilliant tactician, Yamato Takeru also vanquished an enemy by cross-dressing as a maiden at a party. He was given the sword by his aunt at the Great Shrine of Ise and used it to conquer many foes.
Before entering temples and shrines, the custom is to purify yourself with clean water, using bamboo ladles at the fountain. Pour the water over both hands, then use your hand to cup some water to sip/spit into the trench.
In America, they raze forests. Japan savors old trees.
The hugely towering stone lantern, below, looks like a forgotten relic amidst the jungle... but it's probably still used.
Fluttering overhead, we saw the flag of Japan. Created in the 1500s, it became formally adopted by the entire nation in 1870. However, Japan's use of a sun motif on a flag goes back to 701!
A local supermarket captured our appetites for lunch! Such a selection of freshly-made entrees. Great food! So tidy and nicely presentable.
Notice the prices: ¥298 above, and ¥498 ($4.60) below for all that sashimi! We ate the sashimi as a nutritious snack.
Crossing the park, we used the Metro at Jingu-Nishi Station. A small Buddha stood near the curb: well-respected, un-vandalized, and with daily offerings left in place. What a great community. In fact, our entire week in Japan was grafitti-free.
The ticket machines were equipped with instructions in English.
Of course, the trains operate punctually.
Before departure, drivers do a "point-and-call" to ensure safety.
Passengers can legally walk between the subway cars, and the open doors allow for a nicer view. (It remains illegal to cross subway cars in NYC, despite NYC having the worst overcrowding and transit congestion).
We watched a guy offer his seat to an old woman, who was so grateful that she waved profusely and bowed—while seated—as the guy exited the train. Such gratefulness.
We exited at the City Hall fountains. Below is the fantastic subway station canopy. Such detail!
Above is the City Hall, designed in Imperial Crown Style. It's interesting how they kept the new government adjacent to the ancient Nagoya Castle (a former seat of power). On the topic of sleek linear design, the avant garde international architect, Frank Lloyd Wright, lived in Japan for three years until 1922. His genius designed Tokyo's New Imperial Hotel, a school, and rural villas. Inspired by the culture, he often lectured about Japan's superb craftsmanship, graceful aesthetics, and simple elegance.
We approached Nagoya Castle and admired its magnificence.
Seen below, a model-size replica showed how the city looked in the castle's early eras.
The moats are dry, but the angular ramparts remain solidly.
As an animal-lover, Lewis was delighted to see a cat near the fence that overlooked the moat. Apparently, people visit the kitty and leave food for it. Sensing Lewis as a trustworthy person, the cat remained unafraid and let him get closer.
Touring the castle's Tea Garden, we enjoyed its historic artistry.
Asian chrysanthemums differ in size/height from American "mums". They were radiant.
Yes, those are two guys kissing at Japan's historical castle. :-) Visitors can rent outfits and pose for photos at a backdrop. I wanted to do it, but Lewis as shy. Ha ha!
Seen below, we read signs that educated us about the castle's history and secret passageways/tunnels.
It was built in 1610 by Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of Japan's feudal Edo shogunate that overruled the emperors in Kyoto. Throughout most of Japan's history, a shōgun was a feudal military leader. Few clans held those hereditary titles. Nowadays, even a retired prime minister is nicknamed a "shadow shōgun". Historically, a subordinate of the shogun was the daimyō: a feudal lord with vast land-holdings. The daimyo clan of Nagoya was named Oda.
The castle was reconstructed after fiery American bombing during WWII, when much of it was lost... engulfed in flames.
A sentient of resurrection exists in the area because it was rebuilt, like a phoenix rising from the ashes. Thankfully, the original stone foundations were intact from the 1600s.
We were awestruck at the stonecutters' strength and precision during that era!
A replica of the castle's Hommaru Palace from 1615 features reproduced offices and diplomatic guest rooms—resplendent in blonde wood with amazing craftsmanship. Recreating the WWII-bombed site depended on old records and photographs. In many parts of America, such undertakings would be ignored and a shopping mall placed over the site, but Japan (like many war-torn parts of Europe) chose to painstakingly rebuild the historic site.
We stored our shoes in foot lockers and walked on the wood floors in our socks. Lewis and I used the formal Entrance Hall.
Below, notice the thin layers of Kokera shingles: Japanese cedar wood cut to three millimeters thick, then hammered with bamboo nails, and built from bottom to top.
It took the combined effort of thousands of man-hours to construct! Seen below, rooms have sliding screen doors.
Look at the gold-leaf pressed into the boards! It's all made from Hinoki Cypress, grown in Kiso.
Eventually, I got accustomed to the low ceiling height (historically accurate for that ancient time).
Seen next, the Taimenjo was a banquet hall for the lord's vassals, ministers, and honored townsfolk. Its artwork depicts the four seasons and local folklore.
Seen below, the largest chamber is the Omote Shoin (Main Hall). The lord of the castle used it as his Office and Audience Chamber... equivalent to a Throne Room. It has a coffered ceiling made of handsomely-curved wooden beams, and there is a splashy amount of gold-leaf that is painted with tranquil garden scenery.
The castle itself was quite a climb...
...but it's less interesting inside (no photographs allowed).
The view from the top is impressive; you can see across the city skyline to the mountains.
Overall, it was a fun and informative museum experience to be immersed in Japan's history whilst being in the city-center.
*To see the time that I brought friends to the (Japanese) Isamu Noguchi art museum in our own neighborhood, please click this link:
Exiting the castle, we explored the area until it was evening. Then, we rode the Metro to the urban area at Kanayama Station.
That glass-enclosed train & subway station is in the heart of the city's retail district. Despite being "Rush Hour", the influx of commuters was never impolite: no pushing or shoving as we see regularly in the USA. That was a treat and a relief.
Effervescent performers sang outside in the plaza, and snappy-looking security guards and police officers patrolled the stores.
In between stores, we encountered another amazing fair-priced supermarket. These places have a superior selection like Whole Foods but with the affordable prices of Trader Joe's, and—unlike many American supermarkets—they sell wine, sake, and liquor!
The convenience of precooked fish was nice, and I love cooked pumpkin: roasted, sautéed, or stewed!
I took us to the top of the Crowne Plaza Ana Grand Court Hotel for cocktails: a Moscow Mule in a copper mug for $5.00, and a Gin & Tonic for Lewis for $5.00! That's an unbelievably fair price for hotel beverages. For comparison, when we sat atop Chicago's tallest skyscraper, the drinks were $15.00 each... and rooftop bars in Manhattan charge $19-25. For a similar citywide view, American bars definitely charge more than $22 per drink. (When Americans claim that Japan is expensive, they don't know what they're talking about... or they're lying).
It was the tallest hotel in the city. We were glad to arrive at sundown, because the bar had great views!
Shirlyn rendezvoused with us and took us to dinner at a cozy (shoes off) restaurant. We sat at the chef's counter and savored a kaiseki, which is a multi-course meal!
Our dinner had 9 courses and two types of sake. Starting our meal, the pickled veggies were especially delicious.
Pickled vegetables in Japan are made with rice bran, water and salt (instead of vinegar or sugar). Called Nuka-Doko, the mixture ferments in a cool, dark environment—matured with vegetable peels that would otherwise be discarded. Probiotic and packed with more Vitamin B1 and minerals than regular vegetables, they help your digestive tract. The pickled veggies are buried in the mixture for two days. If maintained well, the Nuka-Doko can last for years!
Here are photos:
We began with Soup and then Sashimi
Assorted appetizers. My favorite was the crispy lotus root!
We gobbled up all of the fish cakes, and we loved the plates of octopus and mackerel. Gourds were baked into chips.
Peeled organic tomato with citrus zest
Radish cake
Homemade Tofu
Charred cheese
We finished with tasty persimmon tarts. After our meal, we enjoyed the novelty of having a server provide us with a handheld credit card reader, so our card never left us. That modern method is ignored where we live.
We remain amazed (and disgusted) that America doesn't implement contactless payments... despite having years of the world's highest credit card frauds and identify thefts. In the vastness of the USA, customers still give away their credit cards to strangers (who can copy the information for their own use).
For dessert at her home, Shirlyn bought us a delectable burnt-glaze cake by Butter Butler bakery.
Please join us in the next part as we drive to other cities!
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