Lewis and I were thrilled to go to Denmark. The United Nations' annual World Happiness Report listed it as the second-happiest place! In the Democracy Rating (which uses 60 indicators), the peninsula-nation ranked #5 out of 168 nations. Obviously, we went to a superb place.
It is a Scandinavian nation. Three of those nations exist in the world, and they are all kingdoms: Denmark, Norway, and Sweden. It is also a Nordic nation. Nordic nations include those kingdoms, Finland, Greenland, the Faroe Island, the autonomous region of Aaland, and the island-nation of Iceland.
Since 1219, Denmark's flag, Dannebrog, includes the Nordic cross. It is the oldest flag in the world. Nowadays, all Nordic nations use the Nordic Cross in their flags, as do several North Sea countries. That is unique in the world where a region of sovereign nations share the same emblem to show solidarity.
We visited the kingdom's seaside capital: Copenhagen.
This is the city's coat of arms.
It is situated on Zealand Island, near the Jutland Peninsula. (The island-nation of New Zealand is not named after Denmark's island; it is named for the Zeeland Province in the Netherlands). The Danish seafaring city straddles the North Sea and the Baltic Sea.
We departed from our local airport in Queen County, NYC...
and zoomed to the Kingdom of Denmark...
Our transatlantic flight was marvelous aboard Norwegian Air: a dependable, comfortable, and affordable airline with more legroom than its pricer competitors.
In the morning, our jet descended to its destination: a beautiful oceanside airport.
When stepping foot in Copenhagen Airport, the first thing you notice is the wood flooring. So nice!
They use reddish-colored, durable hardwoods like African padauk and Brazilian jatoba. The bright and airy terminals are heavenly: plenty of clean/automated restrooms, easy-to-read signs, and Information kiosks punctuate the space.
(T-mobile supplied me with unlimited texting and data at 2G speeds at no extra cost. The city's ample free WiFi helped with the rest).
The airport is patrolled by members of the Politi (Police). Unlike America's duplicitous levels of local, city, state, federal, highway, transit, and airport police, Denmark uses the popular model of a national police force. Unlike NYC cops who carry assault rifles at transit hubs, Danish constables rely on pepper spray and a pistol. Last year, the nation only had 54 murders. We always felt safe in the city.
Next, we had to get to the central part of the capital.
Brainwashed from their "car culture", Americans may want to drive themselves everywhere... but cars are not needed. It is better to use the marvelous public transit and your own two feet.
Helpful attendants pointed us to the Information Desk, where we retrieved our Copenhagen Cards, which we pre-purchased online at home. Learn about them here...
We used them for our subway ride (they call it the Metro) to our hotel. Yes, unlike New York City, their international airport is connected to the city by rail: train and subway. Seen below, taxis (many made by Mercedes) are an option, but the Metro is more efficient... and included with our Cards.
A clean escalator ushered us to a clean Metro station. Instead of fussing with turnstiles, riders "tap and go" at kiosks when they board and disembark from trains. So easy!
Thrilled with the view, we sat in the first row by the big window! We were excited to finally see a clean subway system because this is what "expensive NYC" uses: dirty trains that are outdated from 1975. Despite being the wealthiest city in America, NYC's billion-dollar public transit system looks impoverished.
Here's a link to NYC subway pictures by the New York Times:
https://halfwindsorfullthrottle.blogspot.com/2018/12/scandalized-subways.html
Meanwhile, a smaller nation with less tax revenue built a vastly superior system... and the trains are fully automated!
Metro trains arrive every 4 minutes—precisely. (every 7 minutes after midnight). So nice!
Entirely open, you can pass through different cars and see from one end to the other. Each train holds 300 people... and dozens of bicycles! They don't need longer trains because trains arrive so frequently.
They are unbelievably quiet! Watch this video to hear how loud NYC's electric subways are—especially at "posh" Fifth Avenue station, where rent is second-highest in the nation.
(Turn the sound on)...
It must be nice to live a decent place where things are they way they're supposed to be. We want that. As the train pulled into stations, everything was peacefully refined. Riders were politely hushed (no pushing or shoving), the doors swished open/shut, and the train sped on punctually (no stalling or delays).
ALL STATIONS have ELEVATORS! Coming from America's dilapidation, that impressed us greatly.
(For comparison, in 2017, the NYC Comptroller published an audit that few of the MTA's elevators and escalators work. 80% of 65 elevators & escalators didn't receive necessary servicing, during 18 months. They failed to get preventive servicing either (when they were supposed to be worked on—prior to breaking down—they weren't). Repair-orders were not even created after problems were found! There's a class-action lawsuit against the MTA because less than 25% of the New York City's stations are handicap accessible).
The Metro took us past Amager Strandpark (Beach Park) serviced by three stations! (That is great to reach the beach by subway). Loved by swimmers, divers, kayakers, windsurfers, “extreme sport” kite-surfers, skateboarders, boardwalkers, and outdoor fitness junkies, the 148-acre park has 3 miles of beachfront and a 1.5-mile-long manmade island.
Seen above is Middelgrunden, built in 2000 as the world’s largest offshore wind turbine farm. It quietly and effectively making lives nicer for Copenhageners with affordable electricity that is eco-friendly and renewable. We don't have that in NYC, due to America's greedy industries for coal and oil. (In the 1970s, 20% of Denmark's energy came from coal, but the 1973 Oil Crisis made them rethink their strategy, so they immediately transitioned to wind turbines, biomass, and gas under the sea. Meanwhile, 20% of America's energy still comes from coal, and nearly all coal mining goes to generate electricity. Unchanged).
Seen above, the Metro passed the state-of-the-art Aquarium, advertised as an attraction to enjoy before your flight at the airport. (Feel comfortable doing it: with a fully automated subway, you're guaranteed to arrive at the airport on time).
Its website politely indicates any possible “admission wait time”.
With nothing to hide, the tunnels are well-lit and clean, too.
We got off at solar-powered Nørreport Station.
It progressed a lot since its creation, one hundred years ago.
Skylit and ensconced in clean stainless steel, the clean glass doors, escalators, and elevators delivered us upwards 2-stories to the street.
It progressed a lot since its creation, one hundred years ago.
Skylit and ensconced in clean stainless steel, the clean glass doors, escalators, and elevators delivered us upwards 2-stories to the street.
A big difference from what we experience in Manhattan!...
(If seeing this on your mobile device, tap the images to make them clearer).
Aboveground, the air was crystal-clear. We stood on Nørre Voldgade (North Rampart Street).
Located where the city's bastioned Fortification Ring of the early 1600s was, it is now a main thoroughfare.
The city wall was disassembled in 1867. In 1913, the Metro route—called the Boulevard Line—was dug under it, which also has two tracks for mainline trains.
Adorned with modern design and early-April blooms, the bustling station was tidy. Sunken "beds" are parking lots for hundreds of riders' bikes. Solar-powered light posts (seen below) stand by each parking spot, marking them at night.
(Compare that to many of NYC's MTA subway stations)...
Being well-travelled, we know that anywhere has better subways ("metros") than New York City. But as you can imagine, we were thrilled with Copenhagen's metro!
Lewis and I also admired the nifty kiosks that sold coffee and drinks with old-world style.
Originally public telephone kiosks, those turn-of-the-century structures sold beverages and give free Wi-Fi. There are several kiosks sprinkled throughout the city (with accurate clocks)!
Kiosks were included in paintings by Paul Gustave Fischer...
and one by Erik Henningsen.
Originally public telephone kiosks, those turn-of-the-century structures sold beverages and give free Wi-Fi. There are several kiosks sprinkled throughout the city (with accurate clocks)!
Kiosks were included in paintings by Paul Gustave Fischer...
and one by Erik Henningsen.
We crossed the street southward to the bank. The city's clean yellow buses and Mercedes taxicabs whooshed by. Bikers enjoyed the bike lanes, while others dismounted to guide their cycles over the pedestrian crosswalk, as the law dictates.
Lewis paused inside Danske Bank for a currency exchange. The kingdom is part of the European Union, yet it retains its own currency and doesn't use Euros. The bank had a hospitable system. Instead of standing in roped-off queues waiting for the next available teller, customers get a ticket with a number and they wait comfortably on seats. Within moments, our number was called, and a teller gave us Danish krone (crowns): paper and coins with the Queen's image on them: Margrethe II.
Crossing the street again, we heard the time from church bells of Sankt Petri Kirke (St. Peter's Church) in the city's Latin Quarter. It is Copenhagen's oldest church, dating from the mid-1400s... before Columbus reached the Americas. Amended over the centuries, it is blend of Gothic, Baroque, and Rococo architecture.
We continued merrily to our hotel—only five blocks from the bank and metro station. Great location! We could’ve chosen Crowne Plaza Copenhagen Towers (which gets all its power from renewable sources), but we wanted a cozier yet classy experience. We wanted to be able to step out of our hotel and be in the “heart of things”. As a city, Copenhagen has a big heart!
The hotel is situated on the corner of Nansensgade—named for Hans Nansen, the Lord Mayor of 1650—and Vendersgade, which was named for the King of the Wends. Part of the Danish monarchial title since 1182, it signified Denmark's governance of Wendish people. They lived in Pomerania and had ancient Slavic lineage.
Named after a famous poet, Ibsens Hotel looked just like its Facebook images. Red neon signs and a flag on its tower made it easy to spot in daylight or at night. Operated by Arthur Hotels, it is connected with its sister-hotel, Kong (King) Arthur Hotel, via a central courtyard.
In the base of the tower, dual automated-doors let us into their sunny lobby. This year, for "Traveler's Choice", Tripadvisors.com ranked the hotel #13 in the city—up from #24, last year and got #10 for "Best Service". One of the first hotels to accept "Artist Currency" for artwork as partial payment, Ibsens has many colorful pieces (as seen below). Paintings brighten the lounge, and utility cabinets were painted to resemble a grandfather clock on the sidewalk.
The Front Desk staff was always charming, smiley, and helpful. In Danish, Lewis' name is "Ludvig". My named doesn't translate, so it remained as "Kenneth"; it originated with ancient Gaels to mean "handsome lord born of fire". "Lewis" has Frankish-Germanic origins to mean "loot-carrying warrior".
The elevators and the hotel's restaurant, La Rocca, were on the right side of the lobby. To the left, the reception desk morphed into the Bar, which doubled as the daily Breakfast Buffet.
A dozen tables filled that space. Day-and-night, candle votives and bud vases with fresh flowers adorned each table. In the lounge, a gas fireplace was always on to provide ambiance.
Seen above, a complimentary bowl of apples and a water pitcher (with reusable glasses) was always refilled. The vibe exuded Nordic sleekness.
Exiting to the rear courtyard was a cozy experience: sunlit flowers and lantern-lit tables under umbrellas.
In the Danish language, such coziness fosters a communal and convivial sensation called hygge (pronounced "hoo-guh"). In Scandinavian culture, feelings of wellness and contentment are priorities. Through much of Europe, a Life/Work Balance must be achieved. That explains why Denmark rates highly on the World Happiness Index... and why Americans are fatigued from overworked jobs, consumerism, and a greedily "for-profit" healthcare system. Unlike greedy/cheap hotels in NYC, hotels in Denmark (affordable and pricey ones) provide candles, flowers, and cheeriness as everyday comforts.
Lewis and I were delighted with our hotel's spa, bars, and sleek Italian restaurant. The staff was smiley and sociable. So much to enjoy!
Six levels of handsomeness were enhanced by hallway carpeting that had whimsical map images of the city.
Inside our room, a gift awaited us with a handwritten note!
Emailing the hotel manager, Carina, I arranged for those chocolates to be procured and added to our room. Organically sourced from far-flung locales that still cultivate heritage cacao trees, they're made by Dutch chocolatier, Original Beans. (They have the niftiest packaging artwork). Former pastry chef at Geranium (Copenhagen's Michelin 3-star restaurant), Mark Herman imports them to Denmark. Herman supplies Ibsens with catering for conferences, so Carina orchestrated us to get a of each bar: Ecuador 42% cacao, East Congo 55%, Bolivia 66%, and Mexico 88% (richly the darkest). She only charged us for the chocolate, not the delivery. So sweet.
Another cute note was left under the bed, in true Danish cleanliness style...
Related to Scandinavian cleanliness, the hotel provided slippers because Danes consider it unhygienic and impolite to keep your shoes on when entering a home or hotel room. Lewis and I already do that (because NYC is filthy), yet most Americans scoff at the idea. Ignorantly, they keep their shoes and sneakers on at home, spreading dirt and bacteria all over their home, including their sofas, furniture, and beds. That's crazy!
Located on the fifth floor, our queen-sized room had five tall modern windows, which we were able to open for fresh breezes. Two steps down was a sitting room, replete with closet modules, trendy metal hangers, desk, two chairs, and an electric tea kettle.
Our view faced the hotel's inner courtyard, instead of street noise—which there was none: no honking horns! :-)
We also saw a neighboring lawn because all the buildings on the street had backyards (as seen below). It was perfect.
Going downstairs and out into the courtyard, we followed the signs around a bend to the King Arthur Hotel.
Here is the front of it, on its own cul-de-sac, facing one of the Lakes, nestled beside historic Søtorvet apartment buildings.
Georg Ebb Wineken Møller designed it as a home for apprentices, and it opened in 1882. It's a lovely hotel now.
In this video, the front doors are antique but automated...
Their bar is a little classier, and we settled in to enjoy their weekly Live Jazz. Every Thursday, the musicians and singers alternate between hotels. In addition, every evening from 5-6pm is Cozy Hour, and the hotels offer every guest a complimentary glass of beer or wine. How lovely.
A faux fireplace emitted wisps of smoke (seen below)...
Finishing or wines, we purchased cocktails. I got an aquavit made by Copenhagen Distillery, and Lewis got a Pisco Sour. Saying "Cheers" in Danish is Skål!
Then, I tried a locally-made botanical gin (below).
Our university-age bartender, Peter, was a native Dane intending to be an environmental engineer. He loved that his country encourages such studies. Peter told us that education is free in Denmark (and for students coming from the European Union or with resident visas). High-quality Associates, Bachelors, and Masters degrees are taught in English and Danish. The government subsidizes students with $900 monthly payments. Students get discounted fares on public transportation. AMAZING! (Denmark's Human Development Education Index is fourth highest in the world. They have 99% literacy, and one of the lowest national debts—hugely lower than USA, which is 8th highest in the world).
Peter also described the affordable "food scene", supermarkets, and home-cooking/entertaining culture in Copenhagen. All of his livings costs in the city are 1,500 crowns, per month. In New York, that's merely my rent! His rent and utilities are 800 crowns, per month, and he lives alone. (In NYC, expensive rent compels people to live with one or two roommates). Peter's television and internet are paid by yearly license fees that equal $500 (more affordable than my costs of $140 per month). A monthly pass for public transportation is 60 crowns... whereas my monthly subway costs $130 for the crappiest system in the world.
In the video, Marie Mørch sang in American English, accompanied by piano (turn the sound on)...
Afterwards, we peeked in the hotel's gym and its zenful spa.
Contributing to an Asian-influenced Zen vibe, we admired a replica of a Terra-cotta Warrior statue from ancient China.
It reminded us of our recent trip to China to visit the real ones. To see that trip, please use this link:
We unpacked and relaxed before our 9:30pm dinner reservation; it was the earliest time available, when I made the online reservation, weeks ago. The highly-acclaimed restaurant was only two blocks from our hotel. Such a great location!
In Part 2, follow us to that restaurant.
Oh my god! I love how public spaces look so clean! And the hotel looks gorgeous!
ReplyDeleteNice blog! Please read our travel blog on Machu Picchu. I'm sure you will love this town of Inca civilization & also a mighty travel destination among travelers.
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