The most famous store in Denmark, Magasin Du Nord excels at customer service throughout its sprawling flagship. The Metro Station at King's New Square is equipped with elevators, escalators, and stairs to the street outside the store (where the station's artistically-pyramidal skylights are).
Yet, other escalators can also deliver you into the store's basement, which has an assortment of gourmet markets! They have plenty of handsome seating areas, and even sell "ready to go" picnic bags: sparkling water, baguette sandwiches, and rosé wine.
In French Renaissance opulence, the department store fills the entire street. Named Magasin, the store initially occupied a small area inside the Hotel du Nord. By 1889, it took over entire hotel, knocked it down, and built a new one: the current building! By 1906, Magasin sustained 98 stores throughout the kingdom.
For his coworkers, Lewis bought a large box of gourmet chocolates by Anthon Berg, holders of a Royal Warrant! In a kingdom, a Royal Warrant signifies that the brand is so good—amongst other domestic brands in each category—that the Royal Household uses them and awards the Warrant to inform everyone. Administered by the Marshal of the Court and his Secretariat, warrants must be renewed after five years, and they permit brands to use the crown above their logos. Brands crave recognition as a Royal Court Supplier! Proudly, Anthon Berg is one of 18 companies that still use the historic predicate: Supplier to the Royal Danish Court.
Magasin Du Nord was also bestowed with the status of a royal supplier. Here are other honored companies...
Nobody was at the cash register, so Lewis approached an area selling wine, and the nice cashier gladly rang up the purchase, even though it wasn't his department or product. He even gave us a gift bag and answered Lewis' questions about the chocolates.
Ascending the store's levels via glass-enclosed elevators, Lewis shopped for another dress to give his mother. Finding the perfect one, he signaled a salesgirl to discuss size conversion. The bright-eyed young woman cheerfully took out her iPhone to do the calculations. Embarrassed that he hadn't thought of that himself, Lewis apologized, yet she politely assured, "No problem. That's what I'm here for." Then, she packaged the dress in tissue and an gift "envelope" and bagged it. She even refunded us the VAT tax (since we don't yet live in the Europe), so we wouldn't have to do that at an agency at the airport.
The store is friendly to outsiders, giving 10% to foreigners and supplying them with City Guides.
At the top level are restaurants with views of the cityscape.
We bought a rhubarb drink, made from sustainable organic ingredients. Its company presses the fruit themselves and sorts the fruit manually. They avoid too much automation to ensure that unskilled laborers can have employment.
The server also suggested trying world-famous Carlsberg beer, locally made in Copenhagen since 1847, and also a holder of a Royal Warrant.
Founded by Jacob Jacobsen—and named after his son, Carl—their laboratory identified the yeast needed to make pale lager, yet it shared it freely with the world. The lab’s director trained an entire generation of eminent protein scientists. Like Charles Dickens’ character, Fezziwig (or Mr. Steinway of the piano factory-town in Astoria), Jacobsen’s workplace was full of creativity, fun, and happy spirited camaraderie: wonderful Christmas parties, trips to Tivoli amusement park, musical story-telling, and summer picnics. His brewery is handsome, whimsical, and amazingly ornate. He donated his art collection to the National Museum. He paid for statuary in city parks. When Frederiksborg Palace burned down, he funded its rebuilding, and his Foundation still operates it. Without discrimination—common in the Edwardian era—he employed women like Kirstine Smith, who earned scholarly degrees in mathematics and physics. Carlsberg brews 500 beers, including Russia’s best-selling Baltika. It owns breweries or subsidiaries in Latvia, Poland, Sweden, Switzerland, Italy, Germany, Portugal, France, Russia, the United Kingdom, Ukraine, Kazakhstan, China, Malaysia, Myanmar, India, and Israel. Only the United States lacks its presence—necessitating middle-men and fees to distribute against U.S. brewers.
All the counters are outfitted with electric outlets...
Everything was so clean!
A pop-up location for Hotel Chocolate was there—saving us a trip to their store later.
Down the street is Hotel D'Angleterre, which is French for "England Hotel". In 1826, it housed the tobacco shop that Heinrich Hirschsprung's father used to build-up their business empire. The hotel occupied its current building since 1775, but it was established in 1755 as one of the first deluxe hotels in the world! Such a forerunner!
Crossing the street, Lewis visited overseas colleagues at the Chanel Store. Joan was a sales associate born in Bermuda who moved to Copenhagen 20 years ago to make it her home. She doesn't miss the Caribbean heat, and being a citizen of a British Overseas Territory gives access to the United Kingdom. She loves Copenhagen Fashion Week and the Global Fashion Agenda's annual summit in Copenhagen. She also likes the quick/easy access to other points in Europe.
From there, we sauntered along Europe's longest pedestrian shopping street: Stroget. Full of easy-going shoppers and flâneurs, it goes from King's New Square to City Hall (where the permanent LGBT Pride flag waves).
Walking and biking are important, but taxis—which are part of the public transportation system—are luxury rides at regular rates! To get a Mercedes-Benz in America would incur $20 surcharges, but in Copenhagen, it costs nothing extra. They are some of the world's safest, comfiest, and most-reliable vehicles.
Tap the image to read this clearly:
(However, Lewis and I wish the city had a tramway).
Both it and Zara Home were two-level boutiques. I liked Zara's children's section—including a rainbow unicorn (such an accepting society)!
The best "find" was entering Arket, full of quality clothes in trendy styles amidst an airy environment. A coffeeshop allowed child-toting parents to rest (with free Wi-Fi, like all the stores have), while their spouse did shopping in either the mens or ladies sides. Employees were attentive and helpful, using radios to have more inventory brought up to customers.
The refitted historic building had a small lift ("elevator") for strollers or wheelchairs.
Lewis bought a third summery dress for his Mom, and the cashier lines moved quickly, giving us free hand moisturizer samples while we waited.
From there, we went to the island of Slotsholmen: home to the Danish Government.
One of its bridges, Stormbroen (seen below), means Assault Bridge. It earned its name after the 1659 Assault on Copenhagen, where Danes defeated a treaty-breaking attack by Swedish troops. Danish workmen, students, and civilians stood alongside their soldiers. They lost 17, while the Swedes lost 1,000. Enjoying mercantile success with Denmark, a Dutch fleet rescued the sieged city, ending a six-month Swedish naval blockade, and the current international Nordic borders were established.
We visited Christianborg Palace, now housing the Prime Minister's office, Supreme Court, and Danish Parliament. In a sense of fairness, their parliament doesn't have an Upper and Lower House; it is one body and is named Folketing, meaning "People's Thing"... appropriately lovely.
Denmark has several political parties that manage its Ministries, and the monarch appoints/dismisses the Cabinet.
It is a mammoth building.
It was the site of a royal affair between the wife of mentally-ill King Christian VII and his doctor, Johann Friedrich Struensee (illustrated below). In 2012, Lewis and I enjoyed the film about it: A Royal Affair.
Walking over Marble Bridge...
...we approached the gatehouses and saw ministers arrive (cars remotely lowered stanchions in the driveway), while others rode bicycles to work ("leading by example"). For free to anyone, the tower offers the highest views of the city (at 106 meters). A restaurant in the tower serves lunch, teatime, and dinner.
After all, if your legislators had such a view, like below, wouldn't they also want to save Planet Earth?
The equestrian statue of King Christian IX was made by Anne Marie Carl-Nielsen, in 1927, at the age of 63! A married "mother of three", she was a founder of Denmark's oldest artist association, circa 1891: The Free Exhibition for contemporary styles. So great was their energy that Vincent van Gogh travelled there to display his works. A trailblazer, she created a Society for Women Artists in 1916!
Lewis posed handsomely in a guard booth. Its roof is emblazoned with the Royal Monogram of the Queen.
Next, we walked to the forecourt.
Just outside of the castle is a Horse Riding arena. Christianborg was the royal residence from the 1400s until a fire in 1794. Due to those origins, it is still the historic site of the Royal Stables, which were installed in 1745. The horses are exercised in the arena regularly throughout the year.
A pair of charming constables smiled at us, and we soon found the entrance to the stables.
Thanks to our Copenhagen Card, seeing the royal collection of horses, carriages, and coaches was free. We also purchased a Christmas ornament at its lovely Gift Shop. Apparently, it's a tradition for people to gain admittance to admire the horses.
The interior was clean and handsome.
The horses were, too!
In 1994, the white horses came from the Czech Republic, at the request of the Queen's husband. Called Kladrubers, they are smart gentle animals, used to draw aristocratic coaches for centuries. Born with dark hair, their follicles mature into white hair.
Every day, they horses are exercised outside in the Riding Ground: an oasis in the urban environment. From June until August, they are put out to rural pastures to graze.
Most of the 16 horses investigated us, but others aimed their backsides—which there was plenty of...
...a nice result of all that cycling!
A horse named Cordoba really liked Lewis (who is a horse sign in the Chinese zodiac). All animals love us!
We wish the Central Park horses were treated so humanely. *To see how NYC allows them to be treated, please use this link:
Next, we admired the saddles, carriages, and coaches.
It is an impressive assortment of heritage, and the Danish government maintains those antiques beautifully. The royal family uses them often.
A highlight was the Golden Coach, which was handmade in Copenhagen by Henry Fife in 1839. As a coupé, it holds two passengers. Its exterior is plated with 24-carat gold leaf! Gilded crowns adorn it everywhere. Last year, the metal crowns on the roof were redone by Georg Jensen Silversmith, a company that earned a Royal Warrant.
We took a selfie beside it. Queen Margrethe II rides through Copenhagen in it during New Year's Day, and she uses it during State Visits and Jubilees.
*To see when we admired another Golden Coach at a Royal Stable in London, please use this link:
Across the Frederiksholm Canal is the huge National Museum of Denmark, which was free with our Copenhagen Cards.
In 1743, the building was the Prinsens Palæ (Prince's Palace), but the prince shared it with artists, explorers, and the Royal Master Builder for the betterment of society.
Walking west, we passed the embassy for Cyprus and suddenly discovered the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek!
It is a wonderful sculpture museum. We got free admission with our Copenhagen Cards and stored our bags in lockers in the stone-vaulted basement.
Built by brewer, Carl Jacobsen (son of Jacob Jacobsen), this magnificent place opened in the Spring of 1897. He added the glass-domed Palm Tree Garden in 1906, and its café is a sunny spot.
A highlight: seeing Edgar Degas’ Little Dancer of 14 Years!
We saw ancient Mediterranean cultures, modernist works, Danish Golden Age paintings, and French Impressionists.
That day, half the museum was used for an ancient Egypt event—with costumed docents—but a 20-minute wait existed between tours. We decided to see more of the city.
We popped into Conditori La Glace for exceptional chocolates
Arriving near our hotel, the bells of Copenhagen Cathedral tolled and told us the time of day. Completed in 1209, it was destroyed by fire in 1314. Rebuilt, it was looted during the Protestant Reformation (which caused the 1535 Siege on Copenhagen); in hatred of Catholic corruption, its gold/jeweled altars were dismantled. 40 years later, lighting struck and destroyed the tower and roof. Its replacement was consumed by flames in the city's Great Fire of 1728. Accurately rebuilt, the church was destroyed by the British during their 1807 attack on the city. Unmistakable, the shiny spire was targeted by British cannons—firing incendiary rockets—until the heat from the fires caused the copper roof to melt, and the 42 bells in the tower collapsed! Its final rebuilding was based on the original medieval design. Amongst its four donated bells is the oldest one in Denmark, cast in 1490.
We crossed Ørstedsparken (16 acres), just steps from Høst Restaurant. On the iron bridge over the pond, we heard an older Copenhagener expounding on the city's beauty to his friend from France. That bridge (circa 1857) belonged to the city's North Gate but was salvaged and reassembled there. The park has a huge variety of trees, including an ancient species of Ginkgo Biloba from China originating 270 million years ago. The park's Hacienda Café was closed, but plenty of people laid blankets for picnics.
As seen above, that park connects to Israel Park, named for the Jews who were saved by Denmark during WWII. [October 1, 1943: Adolf Hitler ordered Danish Jews to be arrested and deported. King Christian X flatly refused, and the Danish Resistance Movement—with the assistance of Danes of all walks of life—evacuated 7,220 of Denmark's 7,800 Jews (plus 686 non-Jewish spouses) by sea to the neutral Kingdom of Sweden. The rescue allowed Denmark's Jewish population to avoid capture by the Nazis, and it is considered one of the largest actions of collective resistance. Danes also orchestrated a rescue operation called The White Buses, for imprisoned Jews. They partnered with Sweden and the Red Cross to evacuate thousands of Jews in hospital buses that didn't go to hospitals but delivered them safely to Sweden].
The King often defied the Nazis who occupied his country, and that endeared him closer to this people.
Another indication of excellent infrastructure, the park cleverly conceals a 3-level underground parking lot, Q-Park Nørreport (named for the train/metro station nearby).
Aboveground are playgrounds, water features, basketball courts, and skateboard courts, and it's illuminated at night.
As you remember, it faces the Torvehallerne food market (the pair of identical buildings in the top of this picture).
Inside the bustling market, we stopped at the Tapas Bar, first.
Then, we invested $43 in foie gras from Ma Poule, who import everything from France. It was a treat for us!
America's Food Drug Administration blocks such foreign foods from being sold in America, due to their organic methods (of superior quality). Meanwhile, the FDA blindly allows chemicals and unhealthy ingredients to go into mass-produced food (resulting is massive "recalls", each month), as indicated in this link:
https://halfwindsorfullthrottle.blogspot.com/2018/12/your-health-well-being-are-unimportant.html
As you can imagine we were "in heaven" with their wholesome assortment of French goodies.
From a bakery, we got half a baguette, which the girl sliced for us... and she even helped Lewis count out the correct coinage (to use it up before we left the country), instead of using bills. They even sold a cake made from Spelt flour! Oooo, how nice!
We got gelato to enjoy al fresco on such a mild evening.
It was hugely better than the phony Haagen-Dazs from America, started by a guy in NYC' Bronx who invented the name to deceive customers who wanted "Old World" quality. In 1983, he sold the brand to Pillsbury: conglomerate notorious for low-quality Americanized junk-food. Now, it's inundated with bleached sugar, innutritious corn syrup, whitened skim milk, sweetened condensed skim milk, coconut oil, soybean oil, soy lecithin (an additive emulsifier and preservative for "shelf life" that is made using bleach), and cocoa processed with alkali... anything to make other corporations rich.
Seen above, the red neon sign of our hotel beckoned us from the market to enjoy a picnic there, with complimentary wine from Cozy Hour, which just ended at 6pm.
In America, you must leave home extra early to avoid traffic jams and railroad delays. Yet, for this departure, the Metro sped us efficiently to the marvelous airport.
You might expect long lines at badly-run airports, Check-In desks, and Security Checkpoints (pictured below in America).
NOT IN DENMARK! :-)
Copenhagen invested thoughtfully, so its rating achieved the most efficient security clearances in Europe! A time-clock lets you know how long the queue might be at the Security Check. Ours was under four minutes. For Americans like us, it seemed miraculous! We were elated by a simple thing like efficiency.
Their self-check-in kiosks are plentiful, and my app for Norwegian Air confirmed our accommodations aboard their new Dreamliners (60% larger windows with electronic dimmers, and the most legroom I ever had).
Condé Nast rated Copenhagen's airport as the 7th best international airport in the world, and it won Best Security Processing in the world by the Skytrax Survey. It won "The Most Efficient Airport in Europe" for 10 years in a row! Last year, Copenhagen was named The Best City in Europe for Clean Transport. The airport proudly displays its "green" goals better than any other city...
Their Duty Free shopping area is convenient and service-oriented. Vogue magazine named it the best airport shopping! Necktie and jacket-wearing employees were gracious and gregarious to answer all our questions.
Aside from that, retail stores exist in terminal corridors.
Even better is the airport's restaurants and food court—with the same level of quality that the city has. Unlike pre-frozen "fast food", we saw them actually cooking fresh food!
I heard a man exclaim, "Wow, this is now my favorite airport in the world!" I agree.
Freshly-baked bread and freshly-caught seafood is delivered.
Notice the easy-to-read clocks and Departures screens at every eatery, so you don't have to worry during your meal.
After all, meals should be savored in Denmark! (Flying to Denmark, we noticed that JFK Airport lacked any clocks in its departure terminal—or waiting area!!... something that all other countries seem to know how to do).
You can even get a haircut by stylists in the airport. You can have meetings in conference rooms. A Japanese eatery had trendy conveyer belts of food. The city's best organic bakery and coffeehouse were there.
After this trip, Lewis and I are proud to announce that we're Scandiphiles.
Back in New York City, unchanged problems plagued my local subway station (RECENTLY reopened after 6-month renovation, yet continuously closed for more work), while ticket machines didn't work and a typically-huge delay existed between (overpaid) manually-operated trains.
Also notice how American electronic infrastructure welcomed me...
I brought a tin of Danish butter-cookies to my coworkers, and they devoured them. Made in Denmark, their buttery goodness was delicious. True to Danish values, there were no fillers, additives, preservatives, or artificial colors/flavors.
A skeptic (who thinks America is better than everywhere else) said that it was ridiculous to need cookies from Denmark. Trying to prove his point, he went to a nearby store and bought a similar-looking tin that claimed to have Danish cookies. It mimicked the Danish company with a tin of similar color/shape: an attempt to falsely lure unwitting buyers.
Everybody complained about their taste. Investigating the label, I saw that the cookies were made in India!
The ingredients were disgusting: vegetable oil, dry milk, artificial butter, glucose syrup. When I considered what type of greedy/cheap company would try to make a product so cheaply via underpaid workers with substandard/innutritious ingredients, I knew that it would be an American company. It was. A large USA company with more revenue insists on being crappy, while a smaller one in Denmark behaves authentically. That is symbolic of both cultures.
*To see the food products that are abundant in the USA, please use this link:
https://halfwindsorfullthrottle.blogspot.com/2018/12/your-health-well-being-are-unimportant.html
We can't wait to return to a society that takes care of its people and upholds "quality of life"... how life should be.
Danes are brought up to question the status-quo, which makes them powerful innovators... and results in their delightful society. This small country is constantly coming up with revolutionary approaches to design, environmental sciences, pharmaceuticals, biomedicine, food, agriculture, and varied forms of technology.
Back at home, I was so inspired by Danish culture that it became the setting of my third adventure novel. To learn about my book, please use this link:
Since posting this, 5 friends who read it already booked their next vacations to Copenhagen—flying on Norwegian Air and staying at Ibsens Hotel! :-) My hair stylist also forwarded these blog entries to one of his clients for her trip there. I'm so pleased!
To see the next time that we visited a Nordic nation, please click this link:
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