Another glorious day brightened the kingdom's coastal capital.
An early-riser, I enjoyed the miraculous "rainbow" on our wall.
Riding down in the elevator, an elderly Danish couple complimented Lewis' shoes (the husband spoke most of the English). We also noticed the encouraging expression on the elevator's mirrored wall (seen below)...
Downstairs, the dining area was prepared for breakfast. As usual, votives candles flickered on every table, and a bouquet of flowers was near each of them. We love Scandinavian culture.
The hotel provides an impressive buffet of Nordic specialities, priced at DKK 250 ($35) per person. Food is handmade. Nearly every ingredient is organic, and they try to get local foods to reduce CO2 emissions by having trucks travel shorter distances. They choose growers that use sustainable methods without pesticides. That is a lot of effort, and we valued all of it.
Lewis and I breakfasted on several platefuls of hardy fare.
After helping ourselves to their homemade jam (rose hip, sea buckthorn, and mirabelle) on freshly-baked Danishes (from a local bread-maker), we ate individual servings of fruit-topped yogurt. The bread is made with organic flour from Bornholm. Then, we loaded our plates with cheeses—including Danish Bleu—and nitrate-free organic bacon and meats from local farms. Lewis got some scrambled eggs, while I chose soft-boiled ones in nifty egg-holders.
We headed to the nearest museum: the Danish National Gallery, called SMK.
It was fun to walk past dragon-shaped railings, gorgeously-etched wooden doors, and decorative brickwork.
Shocking Lewis, a heron walked/flapped after an old Chinese woman who fed it breadcrumbs! It obeyed the crosswalks, too!
Erected in 1889 in Italian Renaissance style, the mammoth museum is fronted by magnolia trees, which were in sweet-scented bloom.
As prompt as the rest of the kingdom, the museum unlatched its doors at 10 o'clock, exactly as local bell towers rang.
Scanning our Copenhagen Cards, the receptionist bypassed any "bag check" and merely advised us to carry our shoulder bags (messenger-style bags) over our stomachs... to avoid bumping exhibits. They have such a threat-free environment. Obviously, the artwork was delightful—especially this baroque-era piece by Ruebens.
His ability to tell a story is evident, as we perceive the emotional distress of the "good mother" (in yellow) as part of our audience, thus involving the spectator. Granted, the costumes don't fit the Biblical-era tale "Judgement of Solomon", but the pictorial narrative is great.
We also liked the benches/tables set up to help children appreciate the masterpieces,
As prompt as the rest of the kingdom, the museum unlatched its doors at 10 o'clock, exactly as local bell towers rang.
Scanning our Copenhagen Cards, the receptionist bypassed any "bag check" and merely advised us to carry our shoulder bags (messenger-style bags) over our stomachs... to avoid bumping exhibits. They have such a threat-free environment. Obviously, the artwork was delightful—especially this baroque-era piece by Ruebens.
His ability to tell a story is evident, as we perceive the emotional distress of the "good mother" (in yellow) as part of our audience, thus involving the spectator. Granted, the costumes don't fit the Biblical-era tale "Judgement of Solomon", but the pictorial narrative is great.
Also in the museum is the Royal Collection of Graphic Art: 240,000 works of copper-prints, drawings, etchings, watercolors, and lithographic works, from the 15th-century to the present. For those centuries, it was the private collection of the kings, but it was donated for public viewing in 1843. Access must be booked in advance of arrival.
We also liked the benches/tables set up to help children appreciate the masterpieces,
... such as Cornelis van Haarlem's “The Fall of the Titans”, circa 1596 (bought by the Danish king in 1621). It depicts the Titans being overthrown by Zeus and his clan.
Turning a corner, automatic glass doors swooshed open to give access to catwalks above an enclosed courtyard, which connected the older building to its newer wing.
In that courtyard, cushioned "bleacher" seating faced a pond.
That area is cleverly used for public events,
just like the area around the pond is enjoyed for community events in summertime (seen below).
*To see the time that Lewis and I saw parts of the world's largest private art collection, please click this link:
In that courtyard, cushioned "bleacher" seating faced a pond.
That area is cleverly used for public events,
just like the area around the pond is enjoyed for community events in summertime (seen below).
*To see the time that Lewis and I saw parts of the world's largest private art collection, please click this link:
Exiting the museum, we went behind it and crossed the lawn...
(In folklore, a "nisse" is a Danish "house elf", seen below).
We visited handsome lakeside houses, side-by-side, forming a picturesque community that is nicknamed Potato Rows.
Lewis even kicked a soccer ball back to a group of boys playing in the traffic-free "common area" of their street.
We refreshed ourselves at Emmery's Organic Bakery & Coffeeshop. A corner property that offers outdoor seating, it's nestled inside the community. Lewis struck up a conversation with the barista, who intended to attend Columbia University (an elite "Ivy League" school near Lewis' apartment). Liking him, the barista gifted him two raspberry cookies with his double espresso (29 crowns = $4). My latte cost 42 crowns, and it was scrumptious, thanks to hormone-free Danish milk.
In addition to our cinnamon bun, I bought a chocolate-covered marzipan egg. Hearing that I intended to eat it later, the cashier politely bagged it for me, and even tied a ribbon on top. So thoughtful. The four customers in line behind me patiently waited... normal behavior in such a decent society.
Reaching the lake, we paused to admire the view.
Then, we returned south. Ten minutes later, we crossed through a park named King's Garden. Created as a Renaissance-style "pleasure garden" in 1606 by King Christian IV, it is the oldest and most-popular park in Copenhagen.
...of Østre Anlæg Park to its neighbor, the Hirschsprung Collection, built in 1911. Contingent that the government provide a building for public display, Heinrich Hirschsprung donated his art collection to the city (where he was born and lived). 205 drawings, 45 paintings, 14 watercolors, 55 sketchbooks, and 12 busts were gifted, including many Peter Kroyer paintings. We got free admission with our Cards.
(In folklore, a "nisse" is a Danish "house elf", seen below).
An employee finished picking up a scant amount of litter from the property, and he held the door as we exited, hoping we come back again for the next exhibit. He was nicely hospitable. We crossed the street, named Stockholm Street, full of historic apartment buildings.
We visited handsome lakeside houses, side-by-side, forming a picturesque community that is nicknamed Potato Rows.
There are 480 two-story masonry homes, originally built in 1873 as employee housing for Burmeister & Wain. Beforehand, the area was full of potato fields. (New York's Levittown also began on potato fields, but Copenhagen's area turned out much nicer). Their cozy terraces, backyards, proximity to the lake, fireplaces, and quiet streets are highly sought-after.
Lewis even kicked a soccer ball back to a group of boys playing in the traffic-free "common area" of their street.
We refreshed ourselves at Emmery's Organic Bakery & Coffeeshop. A corner property that offers outdoor seating, it's nestled inside the community. Lewis struck up a conversation with the barista, who intended to attend Columbia University (an elite "Ivy League" school near Lewis' apartment). Liking him, the barista gifted him two raspberry cookies with his double espresso (29 crowns = $4). My latte cost 42 crowns, and it was scrumptious, thanks to hormone-free Danish milk.
In addition to our cinnamon bun, I bought a chocolate-covered marzipan egg. Hearing that I intended to eat it later, the cashier politely bagged it for me, and even tied a ribbon on top. So thoughtful. The four customers in line behind me patiently waited... normal behavior in such a decent society.
Reaching the lake, we paused to admire the view.
Then, we returned south. Ten minutes later, we crossed through a park named King's Garden. Created as a Renaissance-style "pleasure garden" in 1606 by King Christian IV, it is the oldest and most-popular park in Copenhagen.
*To see one of our fun excursions in NYC's Central Park, please use this link:
Personal effects are kept on coat hangers or in lockers in a tidy basement room.
Its vintage doorways are covered by glass doors to use.
At the roof-level, the interior design was impressively cool!
We had plans to meet our friend Diana and her boyfriend, Thomas, at Barr Restaurant for lunch.
We strolled from the museum to the restaurant. Thanks to the capital's priority for pedestrians and cyclists, we got there in several minutes. We had fun crossing Inner Harbor Bridge, which was constructed in 2016 for pedestrians and bicycles.
When summer arrives, this same part of the Inner Harbor is lined with public swimming spots—as seen below. Wow!
In the meantime, we waved at kayakers, like him.
Arriving before them, we enjoyed a jazz quartet at the riverside Food Court, which included a Singaporean restaurant, barbecue, gourmet porridge maker, pizzeria, pasta station, and an ice cream shop!
That neighborhood of Christianshavn has sleek new apartment buildings, named Krøyers Plads, which allow swimming in summer.
Seen below, our destination was a refurbished warehouse that was built in 1767. Occupying the main level, Barr Restaurant uses the former space of Noma: a Michelin 3-star restaurant recently named the World's Best Restaurant for the fourth time! Barr is operated by Noma's world-famous chef, René Redzepi. As you can imagine, our appetites were revved for an adventure. Barr gives gastronomic coolness amidst historic, rustic simplicity. Therefore, even though we couldn't get a reservation at Noma, we enjoyed its former space—with a menu by its chef! I'm glad it worked out so nicely.
*To learn more about Redzepi and Noma, please use this link:
https://halfwindsorfullthrottle.blogspot.com/2019/05/a-better-way-to-treat-kitchen-staff.html While we waited for our friends, Lewis and I sat outside. In a welcoming way, a waitress ignited some logs in the fire pit. It provided a hospitable warmth and an aromatic pleasure. Hygge is a priority; that is nice.
Northern Europe provides the perfect weather to have a crackling fire pit amidst warm sunshine. We love that.
As you can see in my photo, the area was full of people relaxing and enjoying the waterside scenery. Blissful.
Diana and Thomas arrived by foot, and we entered Barr. The historic wood beams are prominently visible.
We got acquainted with our server, and I began my meal with a Whiskey cocktail—involving Apple Shrub and Mushroom/Acorn bitters. The bartender presented it perfectly.
Their rye bread and sourdough were delectable, as were the ramequins of butter and lard to spread on them. Our Peruvian waitress moved to Copenhagen 2 years ago and and loves it! Yes, think about that. A young woman emigrated halfway around the world from Peru to Denmark—for a waitress job—and is content to make a living in that beautiful city. (When I worked at a NY restaurant with a Peruvian waiter, he hated the exorbitant costs of the USA and its overworked lack of life/work balance). Seen below, our cheery waitress escorted us through our meal: browned Crab over Chinese Cabbage in butter/beer sauce; Danish Lamb meatballs, free-range Pork Schnitzel with horseradish/anchovies sauce; and whole Flatfish with browned Shrimp sauce.
From there, I suggested that we cross the street to another reclaimed warehouse, where a Michelin-starred restaurant named 108 recently opened its Corner Coffeeshop & Wine Bar.
It was already very popular. All of the baked goods are made by hand with excellence. Priced at 30 crowns each, the coffees were a perfect "chaser" to our hearty—but not heavy—meal. :-)
We peeked into the dining room of the adjoining restaurant.
Our friends had other plans for the afternoon, so Lewis and I decided to burn off calories by walking to the former Meatpacking District in the Vesterboro neighborhood.
Below is Sønder Boulevard, which was modified by the city government to give more "green space" to the budding community. They closed off traffic at one end, to reduce cars. They reduced the pavement to enlarge the center's grassy meridian, which now has ping pong tables, enclosed basketball & handball courts, picnic areas, and trees.
As you can see, people were gladly using it, that afternoon.
The images above prove the area's "edgy" attitude. It's not shocking to see sex toy shops juxtaposed with cafes, when you remember that nudity in European advertising is permissible and sex is not taboo outside of "Puritan-rooted" America. That area is also the city's Red Light district. Prostitution is legal in the kingdom, but pimping and brothels are not. Sex workers are found online and outdoors... often at very nice places.
Our friends had other plans for the afternoon, so Lewis and I decided to burn off calories by walking to the former Meatpacking District in the Vesterboro neighborhood.
Below is Sønder Boulevard, which was modified by the city government to give more "green space" to the budding community. They closed off traffic at one end, to reduce cars. They reduced the pavement to enlarge the center's grassy meridian, which now has ping pong tables, enclosed basketball & handball courts, picnic areas, and trees.
As you can see, people were gladly using it, that afternoon.
The images above prove the area's "edgy" attitude. It's not shocking to see sex toy shops juxtaposed with cafes, when you remember that nudity in European advertising is permissible and sex is not taboo outside of "Puritan-rooted" America. That area is also the city's Red Light district. Prostitution is legal in the kingdom, but pimping and brothels are not. Sex workers are found online and outdoors... often at very nice places.
Unlike other European countries, there is sexual equality in Denmark because it legalized homosexuality in 1933. In 1989, the Queen acted as Head of State to give Royal Assent for the world's first law to support same-sex partnerships. Without the homophobia and cultural shaming that persists in America, Danish boys can feel confidant to canoodle in every corner of the kingdom.
Seen below, we climbed the steps of Central Station, as we returned to our hotel's neighborhood.
Travelers and commuters have orderly bike parking and a clean loggia (seen below), before entering the grandly-styled station.
With its thick stone columns, wood rafters, and medieval-looking windows, the station is like a fairytale castle for your journey/adventure. Built in 1911, it is something nice added to your typical day here!
"Mad" means "Food", and you can see the fruit and fresh veggies for sale outside a market in the station.
Elegance with speed and efficiency; that's the way to go!
We also admired Axel Towers, built by Lundgaard & Tranberg, the same architects who birthed the Royal Playhouse and world-famous Tietgen Dormitory. Michelin-starred AOC opened a restaurant there named Trio.
We proceeded north, meandering whichever way that we felt like going, and we pause to browse inside attractive shops.
That day, we walked 10 miles! (and certainly had an appetite). We freshened up before rendezvousing with Diana and Thomas in the lobby for dinnertime somewhere amazing!
Travelers and commuters have orderly bike parking and a clean loggia (seen below), before entering the grandly-styled station.
With its thick stone columns, wood rafters, and medieval-looking windows, the station is like a fairytale castle for your journey/adventure. Built in 1911, it is something nice added to your typical day here!
"Mad" means "Food", and you can see the fruit and fresh veggies for sale outside a market in the station.
Elegance with speed and efficiency; that's the way to go!
We also admired Axel Towers, built by Lundgaard & Tranberg, the same architects who birthed the Royal Playhouse and world-famous Tietgen Dormitory. Michelin-starred AOC opened a restaurant there named Trio.
We proceeded north, meandering whichever way that we felt like going, and we pause to browse inside attractive shops.
That day, we walked 10 miles! (and certainly had an appetite). We freshened up before rendezvousing with Diana and Thomas in the lobby for dinnertime somewhere amazing!
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