Half Windsor Full Throttle: Our Trip to Copenhagen, Denmark - Part 3 of 9

At 6:30 am, we joined the hotel's Running Club for a unique experience: seeing the waking city at dawn! It is named Arthur Running, and the sessions are offered complimentary to employees and guests, and each is led by a professional coach. That is indicative of a Nordic "Life/Work Balance" that includes fitness and "being outdoors". We love that.

We were joined by a Scotsman who visited Copenhagen annually for the last 10 years, an Englishwoman, a Danish traveller, and some Italians. After stretching on the cobblestones outside the hotel, we started running. We crossed Frederiksborggade, which is a street named for Frederiksborg Castle that it leads to. (We went there later!)

We jogged behind the Botanical Gardens & Museums (seen below). Founded in 1600, it occupied its current address since 1870. Its 10 hectares brim with 13,000 species, 24 conservatories, library, herbarium, museum, rock garden, outdoor café, and Garden Supply Shop. The glass dome was built by Carlsberg Brewery in 1874. The gardens offer free admission.

Crossing Sølvgade (Silver Street of 1649, named for the mineral), we entered the 12-hectare (30-acre) Østre Anlæg Park, containing two museums and three ponds.

The sun rose higher, illuminating the sparkling ripples of the ponds. We also paused to a let a swan cross the path from one pond to another.

Speaking of that, just like Boston's famous book, Make Way for Ducklings...

...Copenhagen has its own cute story.

We did lunges near Østerport train station, which is close to the Spanish and American embassies. At that station, train tracks æsthetically go under the city and re-emerge at Central Station.

Then, we ran past the cheerily yellow/orange rows of historic homes called Nyboder (New Small Houses). Built by King Christian IV in 1631...

...as compensation for sailors and soldiers, it was a fine neighborhood—boasting its own school and hospital. Lovingly maintained since its completion in 1757, the area still provides pretty homes for hundreds of families. "Nyboder Yellow" is a national color derived from that area... just like "Nantucket Red" in America.

We crossed Ring Road #2... similar to the Ring Roads of Vienna, Paris, or Beijing. That section was named after a Swede: Folke Bernadotte, the Count of Wisborg. During WWII, he orchestrated the release of 31,000 Nazi-held prisoners, including 450 Danish Jews. Collaborating with the Red Cross in the neutral Kingdom of Sweden, a highlight was Operation White Buses: a globally-famous success of 15,000 lives.

Our ponytailed coach led us over the moat to Kastellet, a star-shaped pentagon 17th-century fortress. It has a Dutch-type windmill circa 1847—which replaced one from 1718—that helped feed the troops garrisoned there. When King Christian IX's daughter became the Empress Consort of Russia, she still got rye flour sent to the Imperial Court in St. Petersburg from that mill.

In 1801, Kastellet famously defended the harbor during the Battle of Copenhagen against Vice-Admiral Horatio Nelson, the famous one-eyed, one-armed British naval hero. The Brits attacked to prevent Denmark from following a Russian notion that seemed to help France: a British enemy. Partly because of the courage with which the Danes fought, a truce was reached between Copenhagen and Lord Nelson. The instigator, Tsar Paul I of Russia—son of Catherine the Great—was assassinated soon after, and the matter dissolved.

Nowadays, its grass-covered ramparts are parklike and are enjoyed by many other joggers of all races and ages. Even the Crown Prince is known to jog there, with his bodyguards (though Danish officials/royals often shirk the need for bodyguards because they're so well-loved).

We entered from the north, via the Norway Gate, a Baroque-styled guardhouse/gateway from 1663 that faces Norway. It is reminiscent of when both kingdoms were joined from 1523 until 1814. (The Kingdom of Norway was then equally partnered with Sweden, until it achieved independence in 1905). *To see when we adventured through Norway, please use this link: https://halfwindsorfullthrottle.blogspot.com/2023/08/our-trip-to-oslo-norway-karl-johan.html

With the eastern-facing coastline bathed in sunshine, we all paused to actually admire the city's "green" Sewage Treatment Plant, powered by wind turbines (below)...

and waste-to-energy plant, the Amager Resource Center.

Bjarke Ingels is the founder of Bjarke Ingels Group (BIG), a Danish architect firm defying convention and focusing on sustainability and sociological benefits. Before designing Google’s headquarters and NYC’s Spiral at Hudson Yards, BIG designed Amager. The cleanest incineration plant in the world, it helps the nation transition from coal to biomass and for Copenhagen to be “zero carbon” by 2025! It burns 400,000 tons of municipal waste to produce heat and electricity, and produces more clean water than it uses—even puffing water vapor through its chimney. Sulphur emissions will be reduced by 99.5%, and nitrogen oxides by 90%!

Always conscientious, they made sure it was not an eyesore. Designed with a slant, it features a year-round ski slope and rock-climbing walls... getting the nickname Copenhill.

Flanked by more of Denmark's wind turbine "farms" in the ocean, the whole complex was harmoniously sleek and wondrous.

Denmark has several onshore and 14 offshore wind turbine "farms" (four have more than 80 turbines), and the Danish wind turbine industry is the world's largest. Famously on February 24, 2017, the kingdom generated enough wind energy to power their entire electricity needs, as per WindEurope. Right now, they're building a joint-venture offshore wind farm called "Viking Link" between Denmark and England, with a capacity of 1,400 megawatts.
Meanwhile, America's imbecilic federal government falsely denounces wind power (claiming it kill eagles and causes cancer) and corruptly clings to coal.

Even China has more eco-friendly power sources.

*To learn about the overpriced yet unreliable power companies that persist in NYC, please use this link:

https://halfwindsorfullthrottle.blogspot.com/2019/07/power-to-people.html

Resuming our run, we passed St. Alban's Church, circa 1885, which gives its services and webcasts in English because it was built for the city's British population.

Resembling a part of England's East Anglia, the Anglican church was built by Cambridge-taught Sir Arthur Blomfield. It was begun when English residents entreated the Danish Princess Alexandra—married to the Prince of Wales—to found a church for them. (As Queen of England, Alexandra was deaf but focused energy on becoming a renown snapshot enthusiast—encouraging the usage of early handheld cameras! At its request, she lent her photographs to Kodak for its advertising campaign).
The church's opening was attended by the Prince & Princess of Wales, King & Queen of Denmark, Russian Tsar & Tsarina, and King & Queen of Greece! Like the English princess, the tsarina and the Greek king were born Danish. Its Gothic Revival steeple contains 15 tubular bells. Eight were presented by the Prince of Wales, when the church was built. In 2013, the current Prince of Wales added seven more bells and for all 15 to be played by a computer. Every quarter-hour, the spire’s 80 louvres open automatically, and the bells chime. After striking the hours, the bells play different hymn tunes.

*Relatedly, as a comparison to another kingdom's capital, please click this link to see our first trip to London, England:

https://halfwindsorfullthrottle.blogspot.com/2021/10/our-trip-to-london-uk-part-1-which.html

We circled the red buildings and tread between them.

It is still an active military site, they are used by the Danish Home Guard,

Judge Advocate Corps,

and Military Intelligence of the Danish Defense Ministry.

The former Commandant's house is the official residence for the Chief of Defense.

Jogging along, we exited via the southern gateway/bridge, called King's Gate. It's named for Frederik III, who was the King of Denmark & Norway from 1648 to 1670.

Going past the Embassy for Nepal, we meandered down the roads of the City Center. Pausing at at crosswalk signal, the group was surprised when a young man (heading home after a long night at the bars) drunkenly greeted me. Hearing my American accent, he slurred his favorite American cities that he wants to visit. I pointed out to Lewis that I'm so approachable, even when sweaty! We proceeded north past colorful buildings and whimsical statuary.

We passed Messen Department Store (circa 1895, with the statute, seen above) and ran through Kultorvet Square ("Coal" Square)... which hasn't changed since the 1800s...

...and we had fun jumping up/off the circular fountain in the middle. It was turned off, but looks like this...

As seen below, it is used for dancing in summertime.

We jogged past the Round Tower, built in 1642. It survived the SECOND Battle of Copenhagen in 1807, when the British returned and inhumanly bombarded the capital to take Denmark's naval fleet, so it could not be stolen by Napoleon. 195 Danish civilians were killed, and 768 wounded, while 2,000 properties are burned/damaged. Thankfully, the newly-created Royal Institute for the Deaf was unharmed.

Above, you can see Rosenborg Castle, while the Round Tower is seen below, in front of the flames.

Soon enough, we returned to our hotel. It was 7:30 am, and our coach was proud that we accomplished 7 kilometers (4.5 miles), instead of just 5k. We were so proud of ourselves!

At 8am, three sets of church bells welcomed the day to the waking city. The closest gongs emanated from Sankt Andreas Kirke, 3 blocks away: an international church that matches the city's mix of residents. Here's a picture of it.

Hungry for breakfast, we enjoyed our hotel's proximity to Torvehallerne Food Market: 2 skylit buildings full of food stalls. It's directly south, on the same street as the hotel.

Its courtyard holds greenmarkets and flower markets, which have taken place there since the turn-of-the-century.

(Notice the same buildings above & below)

A few stalls are positioned outside: tacos, Korean "street food", and Chinese "street food".

Like "kids in a candy store", Lewis and I raced around both buildings. Every proprietor spoke English, switching from Danish, as soon as they heard us talk. In true Scandinavian style, we enjoyed a smorgasbord:

From the stall below, I selected a open-faced herring/caviar/bacon sandwich... which I watched them finish making.

At this Meat Market, Lewis ordered some succulent veal meatballs, from a man with curled handlebar mustache. He told us how he wanted to visit NYC, but he enjoyed Denmark's business world. Taxes are considered high (they're the same as U.S. income tax), but he said that their incomes make it sustainable—especially considering the universal healthcare that's included: medical check-ups, surgery, ambulatory helicopters, physical therapy, etc! Additionally, doctors cannot favor certain (high-priced/bribing) pharmaceuticals, and druggists must offer the lowest-price alternatives first. Wow. Unlike America, their healthcare is not profit-driven; it cares about people.

An Empanada Shop featured flour-made crusts, stuffed with barbecued chicken or smoked pork.

Delighted by side-by-side Fishmongers, Lewis ordered calamari and fishcakes. We happily watched them choose freshly-caught squid, slice it, and fry it for us! That's fresh!

At a well-known, female-owned Vietnamese stall named Lele, we tried a Bahn Mi, which was mediocre.

We washed it down with freshly-blended juice.

Many stalls have their own seating areas, but public seating abounds. Great people-watching—especially the well-armed guy cleaning windows, whom I did not photograph.

Across the street was a flea market that we quickly pursued.

It sat on the edge of a sport park.

We didn't stay long, because we wanted to join a unique activity that can't be done in many cities in the world: marching alongside columns of Den Kongelige Livgardes (Royal Life Guards)! As protectors of the constitutional monarchy and the Danish Royal Family, they were formed in 1658. They are also responsible for the defense of the realm.

After a five-minute walk, we arrived at Rosenborg Castle, built in 1606. Intended as a summer home for King Christian IV (one of Scandinavia's most ambitious rulers)...

...its architecture was done in Dutch Renaissance style.

*To see our trip to the heartland of the Renaissance in Italy, please click this link...

https://halfwindsorfullthrottle.blogspot.com/2022/03/our-trip-to-italy-part-1-of-7-milan.html

The castle still houses a branch of the Royal Danish Army. The army was established in 1614; only 8 military units in the world are older.

Every day of the year, promptly at 11:30am, the Royal Guards parade from their barracks at the castle to the Queen's palace (seen below) and perform a Changing of the Guard ceremony.

Named Amalienborg, the "palace complex" is democratic: four equal-sized palaces for the sovereign, the first-born heir, and relatives...

Every day at 12 o'clock, regardless of the weather, the new guards march into the palace square with music. The outgoing guards (who completed their jobs as sentries) are standing "at attention" with their rifles, waiting to be "relieved of duty". A flag is relayed to the Adjutant. Then, the changeover occurs. Every 2 hours during the next 24 hours, patrols of guardsmen will enter the courtyard to change the sentries in the red guard boxes. Guarding the royal residence, they pace back-and-forth.

Appealingly, the palace complex is accessible for visitors and "royal subjects" to pass through. It's as approachable as the kingdom's leaders... whereas other famous palaces are gated to keep you out and keep you away.

We had 15 minutes before the march began, so Lewis and I used the time to buy a wedge of organic Danish cheese from the local cheesemonger near the castle. We love cheese, and it's a perfect snack. The proprietor sold cheeses from Austria, Switzerland, the United Kingdom (mostly England), and the Kingdoms of Spain, Belgium, and the Netherlands. But, we thought it best to have a local one. We ate Bernstein Grubé, which is similar to Gouda and aged in limestone caves on the Jutland Peninsula for 10 months. In Danish, when something is yummy, you say "lækker". It was!

Then, we went to the castle. Seen below, part of the property is occupied by a long barracks. The military base at Rosenborg is full of cadets: exercising and doing "drills" all around you!

When they are not guarding royals, the soldiers exert themselves with military training, fitness, and marksmanship.

We'd certainly feel safe having them around us!

*To see when Lewis and I visited the longest-occupied barracks in the world, please use this link:

https://halfwindsorfullthrottle.blogspot.com/2023/02/our-trip-to-dublin-ireland-part-2-of-6.html

A crowd gathered at the gatehouse on Gothersgade, named for the Goths who overthrew the ancient Roman Empire that tried to invade Denmark. From the 1300s until 1972, Danish kings were titled King of the Goths (and the Wends).

Guardhouses in Denmark are painted red. At the castle, sentries occupied them by the gate and near the museum where the Crown Jewels are stored in the Treasury. Sentries are posted day and night throughout the year.

When Her Majesty is "in residence", a large troop of guardsmen marches with a military band for the Changing of the Guard ceremony. Music is performed by the Royal Life Guards Music Corps, which was established amongst the Danish Defense Force in 1670.

When only a lesser aristocrat is "in residence", a smaller detachment marches with a Fife & Drum Corps, which was the original musical unit formed in 1658.

Their uniform includes dark-blue tunics with red piping, light-blue trousers with white stripes down the legs, crisscrossing white shoulder straps, and faux bearskin hats. Very spiffy! Each guard wears an emblem of the Royal Cypher: the monarch's monogram.

Before the Changing of the Guard begins, soldiers line-up into a formation to be inspected. Their uniforms must be perfectly pressed, ironed, and polished. Their furry hats must be brushed, and their leather utility straps must be pristine and overlap on their chests perfectly. Rifles are oiled, and sabers are sharp. Boots must be supremely shiny.

For special occasions, the soldiers wear red tunics.

*Their uniforms remind me of the Royal Guards in Belgium...

It is an honor to join the Danish Royal Life Guards, and royal guardsmen are highly-esteemed for their around-the-clock duty.

Queen Margrethe II is not always at home. Aside from global travels and the royal yacht, she summers at Marselisborg Palace and Graasten Palace. Every spring, Her Majesty travels to Fredensborg Palace (seen below).

In the 47th year of her reign, the 79-year-old monarch usually celebrates her birthday (April 16) at Fredensborg. It is a public holiday that is popular with Danes who love their royal family.

Her Majesty is usually surrounded by regiments of Royal Life Guards: they form security cordons at events, they line-up for Honor Guards at balls, and they greet her with music for diplomatic events.

Since Her Majesty was out-of-town, a smaller contingent of guards did the march through Copenhagen. I love the idea of a daily parade! I also love the notion of marching amongst the people by parading through city streets and pedestrian alleys. Unlike in London, the soldiers don't merely march on the main road to the palace; they meander through the capital's retail district, and they pass sidewalk cafes, restaurants, and offices. It provides a daily opportunity for citizens to pause and enjoy festive music and military heritage.

You can find plenty of videos online of the guards brightening people's days with upbeat music, like these two...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z1czRqhPY7E

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sHo1mH5H7CM

Illustrated in these comparative images—of the same buildings—it remains a strong tradition for a long time.

We joined onlookers who thought it was fun to march along with them through the boulevards and side streets. Whimsically, the guards choose a different route, each day... to keep their routine varied. It enlivens the city with spontaneity as folks see them appear in different places.

Constables halted traffic, while people photographed the approaching guardsmen through the fence. Lewis and I positioned ourselves across the street from the main gate for an ideal view.

Our crowd of cyclists and tourists followed them, admiring the city's architecture, as we went. The guards marched south on King Christian IX's Street (he looked like this)...

...and then onto a colorful street named Gammel Mønt (Old Mint). It was named for the Royal Mint that existed there in 1541. Lining it are many so-called "fire houses" built after the Great Fire of 1728 (which Wikipedia portrays as "tragicomedy of errors").

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copenhagen_Fire_of_1728

To be fair, the Plague of 1712 killed one-third of the city's population, so that might've affected their firefighting skills during the four-day inferno that destroyed 1,600 buildings built in the Middle Ages. Thankfully, their replacements are quite handsome!

Yes, the guards stop for traffic lights.

*To see the time that we witnessed the Queen's Guard marching to Buckingham Palace, please use this link:

https://halfwindsorfullthrottle.blogspot.com/2022/09/our-return-to-london-uk-part-2-of-6.html

We broke away, when they reached a shopping district. Lewis and I started by strolling along a street of trendy shops, named Pilestraede (Willow Alley). The street began in 1419.

We adored the cleanliness and orderliness of everything. No panhandlers, only street musicians. Clean curbs, clean storefronts, gum-free pavement, no dog poop anywhere, and Lewis likes how they keep merchandise outside, e.g.: hand lotions (seen below). New Yorkers might equate that to "bargain basement" techniques, but Danes do it with upscale items in order to entice you... and because their society is trustworthy from theft.

As we sauntered up the street, we noticed a boutique named Illums Bolighus, which brandished a proud sign.

Two years ago, the Queen appointed the retailer as a Kongelig Hofleverandør (Royal Court Supplier). Other famous brands from the Danish Realm with that honorable designation include Ecco Shoes, Bisca Cookies, LEGO, AC Perch Teashop, and Royal Greenland canned fish.

We turned a corner and realized that we circled the block-long elite department store named Illum. Opened in 1891, it's the oldest one in the capital. The cubist corner of the store is occupied by Prada, with a coffeeshop on the roof.

Way earlier than other cities, Copenhagen began studying the benefits of pedestrianizing the area, in 1962. The traffic-free result was magnificent and boosted retail shopping.

Unlike America's retail industry—notorious for listless workers and snooty sales associates—Illum is a fine store: clean, chic, and comforting.

Comparing above/below, each end of the store has a different appearance. A food court and Eataly Store fill the lower level.

Their rooftop cafes are famous for delicious food and taking scenic pictures. Even in mid-afternoon, candles flickered and folks sipped wine from stemware on the balconies of each eatery. Students ate lunch on the exterior balconies. Baristas delivered and cleared espresso cups/saucers. In addition to several lovely restaurants, the top level also has a home-goods store and a gourmet market.

The restaurants are open and airy.

Original Coffee operates two coffeeshops, up there: one on each southern corner, and each has an outdoor terrace. The east-side shop has herringbone wood floor and "plank" tabletops.

Since the main Original Coffee's balcony is on the west-facing corner—with a view of the plaza, we went there, too.

The Illum Rooftop is renown for selfies, thanks to its skyline views.

The view was used by National Geographic for their 2019 Culinary Guide of the city (seen below)...

Naturally, we joined-in with these two photos...

Compare such prestige to the ugliness on New York's "elite" shopping street (with the same boutiques and brands)...

https://halfwindsorfullthrottle.blogspot.com/2016/05/filth-around-manhattans-fifth-avenue.html

After lattes and lunch, we exited onto a pedestrian-only street named Kobmagergade (Meat Butcher) that was laid in 1200 and curves through the Old Town.

Several minutes northward, we ascended that spiral-ramped Round Tower, Rundetaarn, which was another amazing architectural project of King Christian IV.

Built as an astrological observatory tower, the ramps allowed horse-drawn carts to bring equipment to the top and books to the upper-level library. Our Copenhagen Card got us free entry, and the views were so impressive. It was also an easy walk, without stairs, after our morning run.

Next door is Trinitatis Church, circa 1637, which we explored. As luck would have it, a baroque chamber orchestra was rehearsing with the pipe organ and a soprano! Opening a door to a pew, we sat and admired the acoustics and ambiance: intricate wood carving, wall-mounted grandfather clock (on time), windows, candle holders on each pew, and soaring gilded ceiling.