The centerpiece of our trip was dining at farm-to-table Amass. When I communicated with the reservationist online, I mentioned our thrill of crossing the ocean to experience the Chef's Tasting Menu. A native of California, Chef Matthew Orlando's flourishing career is impressive. He worked at Auerole for 2 years, then at Michelin 3-star Le Bernadin, Michelin 2-star Le Manor aux Quat'Saisons, Michelin 3-star The Fat Duck, and two years as head chef at aforementioned restaurant, Noma (voted 4 times the Best Restaurant in the world). Then, Chef Orlando returned to NYC as Sous Chef at Michelin 3-star Per Se. 3 years later, he returned to Noma as Chef de Cuisine for nearly three years before opening his own place: Amass. He told me that the name was chosen because he likes amassing creativity, ingredients, and people. It works! Even his former boss at Noma, Chef René Redzepi was interviewed saying that Chef Orlando is doing the best job in Copenhagen.
Earlier, I watched his online lectures about cultivating his own earthworms for his organic farm. His other focus is sustainability and reducing food waste, which decreased by 75%! By "up-cycling", he discovered that dried and powdered kale stalks taste like seaweed. Like the Japanese, he believes in fermenting. Hence, his second excellent enterprise: an organic brewery called Broaden & Build (named after the physiological improvement method).
It's close to Amass (which itself is a former shipyard building), and its website (below) encourages people to spend their money at other local establishments—including other eateries. That is open-handed.
Our adventure to reach the out-of-the-way restaurant was easy—thanks to Copenhagen's superb public transportation. The restaurant was 7 kilometers from our hotel. Customers use their bikes or hire a car, but our way was fun. Since our Copenhagen Cards gave us free travel on public transit, we used that. From our perfectly-situated hotel, we walked three blocks to the Metro, took it two stops south, and emerged by the bus shelter (seen below), which is solar-powered to tell you the arrival times of approaching buses.
As a "global mentor" for transit, their buses have 3 doors for easier access. 41 were just converted from diesel to electric (all will be electric by 2030). Curbs at bus stops have LED lights that warn cyclists to yield for passengers. (Unfortunately, Copenhagen dismantled its splendid tram system, in 1972).
A mere 10 minutes later (thanks to well-managed traffic), we arrived in an area named Refshaleoen. It is a former industrial shipyard on an island near the medieval naval fortifications. Now, it is full of community gardens, food halls, edgy eateries, wind turbines, swimming areas, and farm-to-table successes.
It might not be the typical setting for a Michelin-starred restaurant, but one with a star is worth going out of your way to discover.
The bus dropped us off right behind the restaurant! There, a staircase could take you inside, by way of going over the kitchen (which you can see through the ground-floor windows). But, we wanted to see the restaurant's farmyard facing the water.
It was the perfect time to dine: the sun was setting gloriously over the waterfront and shone upon Amass' brick building and gardens.
Enjoy this video (turn the sound on)...
We began with "Yesterday's Bread", which was so delicious that we asked for more, mid-way through the meal.
These were our courses: Garden Cabbages with dried Flower and Oyster emulsion...
Fermented Potato Salad with Sunflower Seed and Onion...
Egg white Custard with Lumpfish Roe on a Fennel Pancake...
cured wild Goose Breast with Goose Liver and salted Apple (which was my favorite)...
Squid in black Chestnut Oil and black Radish with Bottarga...
Lions Mane Mushrooms with Ramson, Mussels, and cultured Cream (which was sensational for my palate)...
For dessert, we ate a crepe cake filled with Red Wheat Miso and Cep Mushroom Sugar...
Potato & Marzipan Ice Cream with Quince syrup & Hazelnut oil and we finished with Spent Beer Grain cake. Each was sublime.
However, the BEST part was when Chef Orlando reappeared in the kitchen (he spent awhile checking on Broaden & Build) and then came back to our table. For the next half-hour, he chatted heartily with us, even as most tables departed. He described his restaurant's ever-changing interior murals by graffiti artists. Annually, they are painted over—similar to the Buddhist philosophy of impermanence for everything. It matches the seasonal menus, always drawing customers back. Most of the artwork comes from the chef's Greek friend, Stathis Tsavalias, a world-famous painter. His recent wall covering is done is 3D-style, and Chef Orlando offers 3D-glasses for customers to enjoy it.
The chef/owner also showed us his "lucky gnome"—as edgy as Amass is.
His warmth and energetic passion was truly the highlight. Copenhagen is the perfect home for him. He explained that except for one Dane, his entire kitchen team immigrated from other countries around the world. They all love it there.
*It was very different from the time we toured a temple kitchen in India! To see that, go here: https://halfwindsorfullthrottle.blogspot.com/2018/10/our-trip-to-india-part-1.html
It was the perfect time to dine: the sun was setting gloriously over the waterfront and shone upon Amass' brick building and gardens.
Enjoy this video (turn the sound on)...
Above, the man at the bar is apparently a fan of Broaden & Build. Below, is the industrial-chic sign that welcomes patrons through the back-door (facing the bus stop). Chef Orlando deliberately keeps Amass edgy—without tablecloths and with pumping Hip-Hop music—to free himself of stressful Michelin stars and let him focus on "green" development.
Our Australian waitress moved to Copenhagen 6 months ago, desiring to work at Amass. She just started taking Danish language classes. The city has several schools to teach new arrivals, even though everyone speaks English as a global common language. She adored the city—especially its homegrown food and beverage scene.
Meanwhile, our friends adored everything about Amass.
You'll see that the tables lack salt and pepper shakers. Great. To learn something significant about S&P, please click this link:
The position of our table could not have been more perfect: a centered view of the "open kitchen"! We loved watching the creative magic come together, and Chef Orlando's tattooed arms were unmistakable. Obviously, we all chose the 10-course Chef's Tasting Menu ($165), instead of the 6-course.
We enjoyed occasionally hearing the staff yell "Yes, Chef!" This video captures the bustle and vibe...
The main level of the restaurant was packed, so we were surprised when Chef Orlando walked out to greet our table. Our friend, Diana, explained that eating at Amass was her main goal for flying to Copenhagen! Lewis praised the seamless rhythm of his kitchen team. (Having worked in high-end restaurants for Chefs Jean-George Vongerichten, Susur Lee, and Masaharu Morimoto, Lewis recognizes “good service” when he sees it). I expressed my admiration for his online lectures and how he freely shares his knowledge. The way he teaches youngsters and gets involved in the community is impressive. Enjoying our affable American charm, Matt chose to linger at our table longer, explaining his philosophy and highlighting the ingredients in that night's menu. So cool! A different member of the kitchen team presented and described each course, which was expertly plated on various earthenware. (Yet, the stemware was acutely shaped for both bottles of white wine that Lewis and Thomas ordered).
We began with "Yesterday's Bread", which was so delicious that we asked for more, mid-way through the meal.
These were our courses: Garden Cabbages with dried Flower and Oyster emulsion...
Fermented Potato Salad with Sunflower Seed and Onion...
Egg white Custard with Lumpfish Roe on a Fennel Pancake...
cured wild Goose Breast with Goose Liver and salted Apple (which was my favorite)...
Squid in black Chestnut Oil and black Radish with Bottarga...
Lions Mane Mushrooms with Ramson, Mussels, and cultured Cream (which was sensational for my palate)...
Pollock (which dwells down in the shoals of the North Atlantic Ocean) in dry-aged Beef fat with salted Quince and Endive...
and a piquant Fish Pie topped with dried Shellfish and Celery Root.
As a palate cleanser, we sipped Celariac Broth with dried Mushrooms and Blackberry Leaf oil.
and a piquant Fish Pie topped with dried Shellfish and Celery Root.
As a palate cleanser, we sipped Celariac Broth with dried Mushrooms and Blackberry Leaf oil.
For dessert, we ate a crepe cake filled with Red Wheat Miso and Cep Mushroom Sugar...
Potato & Marzipan Ice Cream with Quince syrup & Hazelnut oil and we finished with Spent Beer Grain cake. Each was sublime.
Everything Was Wonderful !!!
However, the BEST part was when Chef Orlando reappeared in the kitchen (he spent awhile checking on Broaden & Build) and then came back to our table. For the next half-hour, he chatted heartily with us, even as most tables departed. He described his restaurant's ever-changing interior murals by graffiti artists. Annually, they are painted over—similar to the Buddhist philosophy of impermanence for everything. It matches the seasonal menus, always drawing customers back. Most of the artwork comes from the chef's Greek friend, Stathis Tsavalias, a world-famous painter. His recent wall covering is done is 3D-style, and Chef Orlando offers 3D-glasses for customers to enjoy it.
The chef/owner also showed us his "lucky gnome"—as edgy as Amass is.
The ultimate honor was being invited to take a picture with him in his masterful kitchen.
His warmth and energetic passion was truly the highlight. Copenhagen is the perfect home for him. He explained that except for one Dane, his entire kitchen team immigrated from other countries around the world. They all love it there.
*It was very different from the time we toured a temple kitchen in India! To see that, go here: https://halfwindsorfullthrottle.blogspot.com/2018/10/our-trip-to-india-part-1.html
As we departed through the candlelit doorway, a server informed us that the river ferries stopped, but buses continued their schedules all night, and taxis waited outside the restaurant until it closed. Yes, unlike NYC, Copenhagen is a civilized place where Taxi Stands exist, so you can easily find a line of cabs. Lewis hailed a taxicab, and a spacious Mercedes S-class responded. Unlike in the USA (where a luxury vehicle requires an extra $20 surcharge), it was the same fare as any other taxi. In fact, many of the taxis in Denmark are made by Mercedes.
Our driver was from Ghana: an African country that is a member of the Commonwealth headed by Queen Elizabeth. He said that he loves living in Denmark. Zooming smoothly to our hotel, he took us past Tivoli Gardens, a year-round amusement park, which looks like this...
Erected in 1843, it is the world's third-oldest, and Walt Disney visited it several times as an inspiration for Disney World.
Erected in 1843, it is the world's third-oldest, and Walt Disney visited it several times as an inspiration for Disney World.
I can't wait to show you what we did, the next day...
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