Weeks earlier, I made online reservations at FishMarket. It is a trendy seafood restaurant facing King's New Square, directly across from the Royal Ballet Theatre.
Thanks to the excellent Metro, we arrived early for our 6pm reservation. That rarely happens when we use the subway in NYC.
Furthering our excitement, the station at King's New Square looked futuristic with modern sleekness.
The King's New Square was personally created in 1670 by King Christian V.
His royal decree positioned it beyond the city walls, as an effort to expand the city center. After three centuries, it remains beautiful.
We had time to stroll on the historic "water lane" named Nyhavn. It is lined with classic Danish buildings from the 1700s. On the corner is Charlottenborg Palace, a Dutch-Baroque mansion built in 1673.
It was given to Ulrik Frederick, the Count of Laurvig: a bastard-son of King Frederick III of Denmark-and-Norway. The boy became a hero Norwegian general and viceroy. *Lewis and I dined in his mansion in Norway. To see that wonderful day, please use this link:
When King Frederick died, his legitimate son became King Christian V and gave the mansion to the half-brother. Later, the dowager queen Charlotte lived there, giving the palace its name. Now, it houses the Royal Academy of Fine Arts (established in 1754).
Nyhavn can be touristy because it's pretty. The sun lit the brightly-painted buildings and red-tiled roofs! Breathtaking.
From our emails, Anton (the manager at FishMarket) knew we had tickets to the 8pm performance at the Royal Ballet.
Nyhavn can be touristy because it's pretty. The sun lit the brightly-painted buildings and red-tiled roofs! Breathtaking.
From our emails, Anton (the manager at FishMarket) knew we had tickets to the 8pm performance at the Royal Ballet.
One block from the French Consulate, the restaurant was bustling, with cars and bikes bringing more customers to keep the waitstaff busy.
When our table was ready, the hostess ushered us to it, and our feast began. When you're in a oceanfront city, you enjoy seafood. Everything was perfect.
Loving the menu, Lewis ordered charbroiled Oysters, Rosé-roasted Shrimp, and a half-boiled Lobster... to start. Their oven-fresh crusty bread and creamy butter was superb.
We dined on Salmon with Wasabi cream, cucumber, and pickled mustard greens, as well as Lemon Sole with Cabbage, Parsley purée, and Mussel cream. Our custard dessert was topped with a fragile sugared wafer.
Before the bar got crowded, Lewis and I snagged stools and sipped wine.
Many theatre-goers imbibe pre-show cocktails at Brønnum—one of the city's best bars—conveniently adjacent to the theatre.
We loved the magnificent old theatre!
The scene looks the same as when England's Field Marshal Montgomery rode through the post-war liberated city.
The world renowned Royal Danish Ballet was recommended by our friend, Alastair Macaulay, the Chief Dance Critic of The New York Times. As one of the oldest in the world, it was formed in 1748. We attended Cinderella, with choreography by Gregory Dean.
A gem in the modern city, the theatre was built in 1874. It serves the Royal Danish Opera, Royal Danish Ballet, and Royal Danish Orchestra. The ornate reception room is breathtaking. Awash with fresh bouquets (NYC's ballet never does that), it conjured images of the Gay Nineties. Wonderful.
Patrons are permitted to bring drinks and snacks into the theatre, yet coats are suggested to be left in "honor code" closets. (Everyone's things were there when the show was over).
Two elegant bars serve drinks, and the colorfully pillared balcony is perfect for people-watching.
Copenhagen is gay-friendly and open to equal rights, so we were among many same-sex couples in attendance.
A chime rang to encourage everyone to find their (red velvet) seats, as the orchestra tuned up. Attentive ushers were at every (red-paneled) door. Children were offered "booster seats".
We sat in the First Tier with the same level and viewpoint as the Royal Box, figuring that what was good for the monarch was good for us. Ha ha!
Unlike the rip-offs at home, both of our First Tier tickets only cost $75.00 each TOTAL. NYC's Lincoln Center charges $195.00 each, plus a ridiculous $16 "service fee" and an extra $8 "facility fee"... giving you an outdated theatre with poor service. There was no price-scamming in Denmark.
Danish audiences stay to applaud all the performers. In sloppy NYC, audiences hurry out before the applause starts... as documented by our friend, Alastair:
(Here's picture of us telling him about the show, after we returned to NYC!)
Thrilled with the experience, we circled the neighborhood to see its boutiques and bars.
We rode the Metro to our hotel... delighted by its around-the-clock punctual service (something we're not used to in our "modern" city).
We loved the magnificent old theatre!
The scene looks the same as when England's Field Marshal Montgomery rode through the post-war liberated city.
The world renowned Royal Danish Ballet was recommended by our friend, Alastair Macaulay, the Chief Dance Critic of The New York Times. As one of the oldest in the world, it was formed in 1748. We attended Cinderella, with choreography by Gregory Dean.
A gem in the modern city, the theatre was built in 1874. It serves the Royal Danish Opera, Royal Danish Ballet, and Royal Danish Orchestra. The ornate reception room is breathtaking. Awash with fresh bouquets (NYC's ballet never does that), it conjured images of the Gay Nineties. Wonderful.
Patrons are permitted to bring drinks and snacks into the theatre, yet coats are suggested to be left in "honor code" closets. (Everyone's things were there when the show was over).
Two elegant bars serve drinks, and the colorfully pillared balcony is perfect for people-watching.
Copenhagen is gay-friendly and open to equal rights, so we were among many same-sex couples in attendance.
A chime rang to encourage everyone to find their (red velvet) seats, as the orchestra tuned up. Attentive ushers were at every (red-paneled) door. Children were offered "booster seats".
The elegant interior made us swoon.
We sat in the First Tier with the same level and viewpoint as the Royal Box, figuring that what was good for the monarch was good for us. Ha ha!
(Her Majesty didn't attend the performance, so it remained vacant).
Unlike the rip-offs at home, both of our First Tier tickets only cost $75.00 each TOTAL. NYC's Lincoln Center charges $195.00 each, plus a ridiculous $16 "service fee" and an extra $8 "facility fee"... giving you an outdated theatre with poor service. There was no price-scamming in Denmark.
We LOVED the performance!
We rode the Metro to our hotel... delighted by its around-the-clock punctual service (something we're not used to in our "modern" city).
No bums or drunks on the trains... or platforms. No pole-dancing panhandlers. No throngs of frustrated passengers because of overdue or cancelled trains—which often look like this on Manhattan's subway...
Nope. None of that. Such a relief. Only polite people and a soothing hum of automation (as it should be after a sublime evening of entertainment).
Our hotel's fireplace welcomed us, and late-night bar customers mingled with international guests. We enjoyed the good vibes and hygge. When people learned that we were from New York City, they were eager to chat with us.
The next morning, I accepted a complimentary cup of coffee in the lobby and sat outside in the courtyard. Outdoor fireplaces greeted me.
Lewis asked Amann at the Front Desk for directions to a lakeside breakfast spot. He directed us across Queen Louise Bridge.
Many people were already enjoying the day on the grassy slopes, dotted with chestnut trees.
After posing by the Croatian Embassy (seen above), Lewis decided to go biking. Knowing the ease which cyclists enjoy Copenhagen, we rented two bikes from our hotel: $25 each for the entire day, until midnight. It was time for us to ride like the locals do!
After a lovely day walking 7 miles, we slept soundly.
Lewis asked Amann at the Front Desk for directions to a lakeside breakfast spot. He directed us across Queen Louise Bridge.
Social is a wood-beamed café respected for its organically healthy breakfast plates and great coffee. It's a local place. Complimentary blankets are offered to folks who sit outside. We shared a mushroom omelet, sliced avocado, slices of cheese, chia pudding, and espresso.
We had to get accustomed to leaving our dirty dishes on the tables. In Danish cafés, the (non-tipped) servers automatically clean up after you. In America, you tip the staff and you still clean away your dirty plates. The Danish philosophy is that you are the guest who should savor the moment; they tidy up. We like their beliefs better.
Another restaurant named Kaffesalon celebrated the warmth of Spring by setting up a flotilla of tables on the lake.
We had to get accustomed to leaving our dirty dishes on the tables. In Danish cafés, the (non-tipped) servers automatically clean up after you. In America, you tip the staff and you still clean away your dirty plates. The Danish philosophy is that you are the guest who should savor the moment; they tidy up. We like their beliefs better.
Another restaurant named Kaffesalon celebrated the warmth of Spring by setting up a flotilla of tables on the lake.
Enamored with the view, we decided to explore the Lakes. Originally a ancient stream, the five "lakes" took shape as moats in 1523.
In the 1920s, paths were put around the lakes, which now serve the pleasure of the populous. The lakes have romantic bridges to cross or linger on—great for people-watching.
Enjoy this short video (turn the sound on)...
Our pictures were on Queen Louise Bridge, named after this woman...
We continued our morning stroll around two of the lakes.
We learned that the lakes were the sight of a Nazi BV-138 plane crash during World War II. After hitting some trees, it landed in the water. It's 3-man crew perished, along with an old man who was sitting on a park bench!
At the southernmost tip, springtime flowers peeked through the grass along a street named Gammel Kongevej, meaning "Old King's Way".
There are a lot of "green spaces" because the city's official policy is that all citizens must be able to reach a park or beach "on foot" in less than 15 minutes. That's impressively cool!
Enjoy this short video (turn the sound on)...
Our pictures were on Queen Louise Bridge, named after this woman...
...who gave birth so often that her children's marriages united Europe. One daughter, named Alexandra, became the Queen of England, while another became Empress of Russia. Another married the Crown Prince of Hanover. Her son became the King of Greece, and another son was King Frederick VIII of Denmark. Each summer, Queen Louise gathered them for jubilant reunions in Denmark.
We continued our morning stroll around two of the lakes.
We learned that the lakes were the sight of a Nazi BV-138 plane crash during World War II. After hitting some trees, it landed in the water. It's 3-man crew perished, along with an old man who was sitting on a park bench!
At the southernmost tip, springtime flowers peeked through the grass along a street named Gammel Kongevej, meaning "Old King's Way".
There are a lot of "green spaces" because the city's official policy is that all citizens must be able to reach a park or beach "on foot" in less than 15 minutes. That's impressively cool!
*In contrast, to see the skimpy spaces that NYC begrudgingly provides as "parks", please use this link:
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