Weeks earlier, I made online reservations at FishMarket. It is a trendy seafood restaurant facing King's New Square, directly across from the Royal Ballet Theatre. We liked that most Danish websites are translated into English and other languages. I must say how pleased I was that every email to Denmark was automatically acknowledged, assuring me of a reply within a certain timeframe. All replies were courteous and written with excellent usage of English—even slang words.
Thanks to the capital's excellent Metro, we arrived early for our 6pm reservation. That rarely happens when we use the MTA subway in NYC. We were delighted!
Furthering our excitement, the Metro station at King's New Square looked futuristic with modern sleekness and cleanliness. Wow.
The King's New Square was personally created in 1670 by Christian V.
His royal decree put it beyond the fortified walls, so that the center of the city expanded. After three centuries, it remains beautiful.
We were so early that we had time to stroll to the nearby historic "water lane" called Nyhavn, lined with classic Danish buildings from the 1600-1700s. On the corner is Charlottenborg Palace, a Dutch-Baroque-style mansion built in 1673.
It was given to Ulrik Frederick, the Count of Laurvig: a German-born, bastard-son of King Frederick III of Denmark-and-Norway. The boy became a heroic Norwegian general and viceroy. *Lewis and I dined in his former mansion in Norway. To see that wonderful day, please use this link:
When King Frederick died, his legitimate son became King Christian V and gave the mansion to the general: his half-brother. Eventually, the dowager queen, Charlotte, lived there, giving the palace its current name. Now, it houses the Royal Academy of Fine Arts (itself established in 1754). Here are pictures of how the mansion and the academy contribute to Danish society:
Nyhavn can be touristy because it's so pretty. The sun lit the brightly-painted buildings and red-tiled roofs! Breathtaking.
From our emails, Anton (the manager at FishMarket) knew that we had tickets to the 8pm performance at the Royal Ballet.
Nyhavn can be touristy because it's so pretty. The sun lit the brightly-painted buildings and red-tiled roofs! Breathtaking.
From our emails, Anton (the manager at FishMarket) knew that we had tickets to the 8pm performance at the Royal Ballet.
One block from the French Consulate, the restaurant was bustling, with cars and bikes depositing more customers to keep the black-clad waitstaff busy.
When our table was ready, the hostess ushered us to it, and our feast began. When you're in a oceanfront city in a Nordic nation, you can trust its seafood as freshly-caught from clean water. Everything was perfect.
Loving the menu, Lewis ordered for us: charbroiled Oysters, Rosé-roasted Shrimp, and a half-boiled Lobster... to start. Their oven-fresh crusty bread and creamy butter was superb.
We dined on Salmon with Wasabi cream, Cucumber, and pickled Mustard seeds, as well as Lemon Sole with Cabbage, Parsley purée, and Mussel cream. I forgot the dessert we ate, but it was chilled, firm, and topped with a fragile sugared wafer.
Before the bar filled up with people, Lewis and I snagged stools and sipped wine.
We avoided a second serving of wine so we could stay awake for the 3-hour performance... especially since we walked 7 miles that day. It's such a walkable city! :-)
Many theatre-goers usually imbibe pre-show cocktails or digestifs at classy Brønnum—one of the city's best bars—conveniently adjacent to the theatre.
Crossing the plaza, we loved the magnificent old theatre!
The scene looks the same as when England's Field Marshal Montgomery rode through the post-war liberated city.
The excellently world-renowned Royal Danish Ballet company was recommended to us by our friend, Alastair Macaulay, the Chief Dance Critic of The New York Times. (One of the oldest in the world, it was formed in 1748). So, we purchased tickets to the ballet that they were performing during our trip: Cinderella, with choreography by Gregory Dean.
A gem in the modern city, the royal theatre was built in 1874. It serves the Royal Danish Opera, Ballet, and Orchestra. Its colorfully ornate reception room is breathtaking. Awash with fresh floral bouquets (that NYC's ballet house never does), it conjured images of the Gay Nineties. So wonderful.
Patrons are permitted to bring drinks and snacks into the theatre, yet coats are suggested to be left in "honor code" open closets. (of course, everyone's things were there when the show was over).
Two elegant bars serve drinks, and the colorfully pillared balcony is perfect for people-watching or scouring the skyline.
For decades, Copenhagen was gay-friendly and open to equal rights, so we were among many same-sex couples in attendance.
A chime rang, encouraging everyone to find their (red velvet) seats, as the full orchestra tuned up. Attentive ushers were at every (red-paneled) door. Children were offered "booster seats".
Here's a picture of our program and the curtain decoration.
Months ago, Lewis and I used their website to select our seats. We chose the First Tier, the same level and viewpoint as the Royal Box (seen below), figuring that what was good for the monarch was good for us. Ha ha!
Unlike the rip-offs at home, both of our First Tier tickets only cost $75.00 each TOTAL. NYC's Lincoln Center charges $195.00 each, plus a ridiculous $16 "service fee" and an extra $8 "facility fee"... giving you an outdated theatre with poor service. Unlike NYC, there was no price-scamming in Denmark.
Another improvement in morality, Danish audiences stay in the theatre to applaud all the performers. In sloppy NYC, audiences hurry out before the applause starts... as documented—yet again—by our acute friend, Alastair:
(Here's picture of us telling him about the show, after we returned to NYC :-)
Thrilled with the experience, we circled the neighborhood to see its boutiques and bars. Very handsome.
We rode the Metro home... delighted by its around-the-clock punctual service (something we're not used to, in our "modern" city).
Crossing the plaza, we loved the magnificent old theatre!
The scene looks the same as when England's Field Marshal Montgomery rode through the post-war liberated city.
The excellently world-renowned Royal Danish Ballet company was recommended to us by our friend, Alastair Macaulay, the Chief Dance Critic of The New York Times. (One of the oldest in the world, it was formed in 1748). So, we purchased tickets to the ballet that they were performing during our trip: Cinderella, with choreography by Gregory Dean.
A gem in the modern city, the royal theatre was built in 1874. It serves the Royal Danish Opera, Ballet, and Orchestra. Its colorfully ornate reception room is breathtaking. Awash with fresh floral bouquets (that NYC's ballet house never does), it conjured images of the Gay Nineties. So wonderful.
Patrons are permitted to bring drinks and snacks into the theatre, yet coats are suggested to be left in "honor code" open closets. (of course, everyone's things were there when the show was over).
Two elegant bars serve drinks, and the colorfully pillared balcony is perfect for people-watching or scouring the skyline.
For decades, Copenhagen was gay-friendly and open to equal rights, so we were among many same-sex couples in attendance.
A chime rang, encouraging everyone to find their (red velvet) seats, as the full orchestra tuned up. Attentive ushers were at every (red-paneled) door. Children were offered "booster seats".
Here's a picture of our program and the curtain decoration.
Vastly elegant, the interior made us swoon.
Months ago, Lewis and I used their website to select our seats. We chose the First Tier, the same level and viewpoint as the Royal Box (seen below), figuring that what was good for the monarch was good for us. Ha ha!
(Her Majesty didn't attend the performance, so it remained vacant).
Unlike the rip-offs at home, both of our First Tier tickets only cost $75.00 each TOTAL. NYC's Lincoln Center charges $195.00 each, plus a ridiculous $16 "service fee" and an extra $8 "facility fee"... giving you an outdated theatre with poor service. Unlike NYC, there was no price-scamming in Denmark.
As for us, we simply LOVED the Royal Danes' performance!
We rode the Metro home... delighted by its around-the-clock punctual service (something we're not used to, in our "modern" city).
No bums or fraternity brats on the trains or platforms. No pole-dancing panhandlers. No throngs of frustrated passengers because of overdue trains—which often look like this on Manhattan's subway...
Nope. None of that. Such a relief. Only polite people and a soothing hum of automation, as we were spirited to our hotel (as it should be after a sublime evening of entertainment).
No wonder the Danes are such a happy race! The subway station by our hotel glimmered artistically in the moonlight.
Our hotel's fireplace cheerily welcomed us, and late-night customers (coming in off the street) mingled with international guests and bought drinks at the bar. We sat amidst that bustle and enjoyed the good vibes and hygge. When people learned that we were from New York City, they were eager to get acclimated with us.
The next morning, I accepted a complimentary cup of coffee in the lobby lounge, and I sat outside in the courtyard. Outdoor fireplaces cozily greeted me. Such a thoughtful touch!
When Lewis joined me, we asked Amann—who was on Front Desk Duty—for directions to a delightful lakeside breakfast spot, just across Queen Louise Bridge. Easy! He marked a map for us.
No wonder the Danes are such a happy race! The subway station by our hotel glimmered artistically in the moonlight.
After such an extremely lovely day, we slept soundly.
When Lewis joined me, we asked Amann—who was on Front Desk Duty—for directions to a delightful lakeside breakfast spot, just across Queen Louise Bridge. Easy! He marked a map for us.
On the map, the bridge converts Frederiksborggade ("gade" means street) into Nørrebrogade—the main shopping street of Nørrebro neighborhood, north of the Lakes. In the Middle Ages, it led out of the walled city’s North Gate. It passes the Copenhagen School of Design and Technology.
Many people were already enjoying the day on the grassy slopes, dotted with chestnut trees.
However, we popped into a different place, just because it appealed to us. Social is a downstairs, wood-beamed, pet-friendly café respected for its organically healthy breakfast plates, and great coffees. It's a great local place. Complimentary blankets are offered to those who sit outside in the sunshine. We shared a platter of mushroom omelet, sliced avocado, cheese, granola yogurt, and espresso.
We had to get accustomed to leaving our dirty dishes on the tables. In Danish coffeeshops and cafés, the (non-tipped) servers automatically clean up after you. In America, you tip the staff and you still clean away your dirty cups/plates. Danish philosophy is that you are the guest who should savor the moment; they tidy up. We like their beliefs better.
We enjoyed the view of the historic Søtorvet development (seen above and below).
Built in 1873 by prominent citizens and a construction company, the symmetrical group of four apartment buildings were based on Parisian designs.
Another restaurant named Kaffesalon celebrated the warmth of Spring by setting up a flotilla of extra tables on the lake. Please enjoy Lewis' photos of it.
We had to get accustomed to leaving our dirty dishes on the tables. In Danish coffeeshops and cafés, the (non-tipped) servers automatically clean up after you. In America, you tip the staff and you still clean away your dirty cups/plates. Danish philosophy is that you are the guest who should savor the moment; they tidy up. We like their beliefs better.
We enjoyed the view of the historic Søtorvet development (seen above and below).
Built in 1873 by prominent citizens and a construction company, the symmetrical group of four apartment buildings were based on Parisian designs.
Another restaurant named Kaffesalon celebrated the warmth of Spring by setting up a flotilla of extra tables on the lake. Please enjoy Lewis' photos of it.
Enamored with the view, we decided to tour the Lakes. Originally a ancient stream, the five "Lakes" took shape as moats—part of city fortifications in 1523.
In the 1920s, the stream was piped in to circulate the water, and pathways were put around the lakes, which now serve the pleasure of the populous. The lakes have romantic bridges to cross or linger on—great for people-watching.
Enjoy this short video (turn the sound on)...
The pictures above were on Queen Louise Bridge, named after this woman...
Regarding the lakes, Ibsens Hotel staff volunteered in a recent clean-up. In their pictures, it didn't seem like many bags, yet they claimed it was a lot. That proves how little garbage is discarded/littered in Denmark!
Another form of "giving back" occurred when Arthur Hotels donated to Land of Hope orphanage. (If seeing this on a mobile device, tap the image to make it readable).
We continued our morning with a stroll around two lakes.
Like the Ducks Statues in Boston, the one above sometimes gets decorated with tiny hats or wreaths or scarves.
Below is the bronze cartouche of the city's Coat of Arms, on Queen Louise Bridge.
During our week, we circled all the lakes. Later, we learned that they were the sight of a Nazi BV-138 plane crash during World War II. After hitting some trees, it landed in the water. It's 3-man crew perished, along with an old man who was sitting on a park bench!
The Lakes were serene and beautiful to admire.
At the southernmost tip, springtime flowers peeked through the grass along a street called Gammel Kongevej, meaning "Old King's Way".
There are a lot of "green spaces" because the city's official policy is that all citizens must be able to reach a park or beach "on foot" in less than 15 minutes. That's impressively cool!
Enjoy this short video (turn the sound on)...
The pictures above were on Queen Louise Bridge, named after this woman...
...who gave birth so often that her children's marriages united Europe. One daughter, named Alexandra, became the Queen of England (after Queen Victoria), while another became Empress of Russia to Tsar Alexander III. Another married the Crown Prince of Hanover. One son became the King of Greece, and the other was King Frederick VIII of Denmark. Their brother-in-law was King Edward VII of the United Kingdom. Each summer, Queen Louise gathered them for jubilant reunions in Denmark.
Regarding the lakes, Ibsens Hotel staff volunteered in a recent clean-up. In their pictures, it didn't seem like many bags, yet they claimed it was a lot. That proves how little garbage is discarded/littered in Denmark!
Another form of "giving back" occurred when Arthur Hotels donated to Land of Hope orphanage. (If seeing this on a mobile device, tap the image to make it readable).
We continued our morning with a stroll around two lakes.
Like the Ducks Statues in Boston, the one above sometimes gets decorated with tiny hats or wreaths or scarves.
Below is the bronze cartouche of the city's Coat of Arms, on Queen Louise Bridge.
During our week, we circled all the lakes. Later, we learned that they were the sight of a Nazi BV-138 plane crash during World War II. After hitting some trees, it landed in the water. It's 3-man crew perished, along with an old man who was sitting on a park bench!
The Lakes were serene and beautiful to admire.
At the southernmost tip, springtime flowers peeked through the grass along a street called Gammel Kongevej, meaning "Old King's Way".
There are a lot of "green spaces" because the city's official policy is that all citizens must be able to reach a park or beach "on foot" in less than 15 minutes. That's impressively cool!
*In contrast, to see the skimpy spaces that NYC begrudgingly provides as "parks", please use this link:
Next month, swimming in the harbor resumes. (Water quality is proudly displayed on its own website). In addition, Danish society makes it a top priority for people to have free time for family, sports, community events, and volunteering.
Nevertheless, Denmark ranked in the top five in the 2019 Global Talent Competitiveness Index. A winning formula, which is why Danes score high on cohesiveness! In 2017, the United Nations voted Denmark the Happiest Place in the world!
After posing by the Croatian Embassy (seen above), Lewis decided to go biking. Knowing the ease which cyclists enjoy Copenhagen, we rented two bikes from our hotel: $25 each for the entire day, until midnight. It was time for us to ride like the locals do!
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