Tuesday, June 3, 2014

Walking Tour : Little Italy, Fifth Ave Library, Chez Josephine, The Dutch, and Chelsea Market

     Our friend, Yvonne (and my former-coworker), returned to visit NYC again from Florida.  Seen below, she brought her new boyfriend named Joey.  



     Lewis and I were charmed to make his acquaintance.  Yvonne wanted to introduce Joey to the grand wonders and small spots of surprising splendidness in Manhattan.  A whirlwind tour, for sure!  
     It was Joey's first airplane flight, and he told us repeatedly how he loved it.  (I loved my first flight, too, and still enjoy a take-off and landing sensation!)  Joey is a skilled welder.  I have great respect for talented craftsman.  I love watching their skills at art studios, on HGTV channels, or at my local Sculpture Park.  I appreciate how they beautify our world through the fanciful bending of materials--and how they restore historic things.  So, it seemed fitting that we walked Joey (he loves to walk--just like us) along Bond Street and through the restored and artistic architecture of the East Village and the Lower East Side.


     Crossing the island-city, we traversed TriBeCa and the Meatpacking District.  He loved the styles seen on Bond Street!  















     He had never seen such tall buildings.  He admired the old cobblestone streets of SoHo and loved its community gardens.  At the first whiff of coffee, he expressed that he was a coffee enthusiast.  Disliking Dunkin' Doughnuts, he savors organic, single-origin, fair-trade blends from artisanal coffee shops, and he appreciates the talented hands of a good barista.  Me, too!
    Ergo, our first stop was Gimme Coffee on Mott Street, near Little Italy.



     We ducked in, just as a passing spring shower dowsed the quiet street.  (That happens often in NYC, yet it's the same for them in Florida).  It was 10:30am, and a few "regulars" were joking with the young baristas.  Look up this company online: they have passion for machines, beans, sources, and staff training!  Joey and I ordered espresso, whilst Lewis and Yvonne had sweeter beans.  Joey launched into a detailed chat with the barista about where the company got its beans and about the "aroma notes" of different blends.  He ordered another coffee, and even bought a bag of their award-winning roast (ground coarsely for use in his French press at home).  

     After a "chaser" of complimentary water, we rounded the corner for lunch at Lombardi's Pizzeria--containing the city's only coal-heated pizza oven.  Located on Spring Street (named for a spring-fed stream that existed in the 1700s until it was ruined by the city), it's one of the few "Italian eateries" worth visiting in NYC's inauthentic Little Italy (most are operated by greedy phonies who overcharge for diluted Americanized recipes like Macaroni Alfredo).  









     We ordered a starter of handmade meatballs in sauce.  Then, we lunched on a huge pizza pie--topped with sausage, mushrooms, ricotta, and mozzarella.  I could see Yvonne "melt" as her deprived palate was restored with "real" pizza.  Food in Florida tends to be mediocre, and dull chain-restaurants dominate the scene.  She wanted to take a jar of their sauce back home for a friend of hers who is a chef.  We ate every crumb and licked our fingers.  



*To see the trip that Lewis and I took to Italy (for its authentic recipes), please use this link:


     Next, we popped into Ceci-Cela French bakery so they could buy bags of pastries and croissants.




     We walked up Broadway, pausing at Zara, Top Shop, Uniqlo, Sephora, and other boutiques.  Yvonne bought many things.



Joey was delighted with a pair of good-fitting white chinos.  Gay salesmen at Uniqlo wanted to help him in-and-out of those pants, LOL.  


     Going to the intersection of Spring Street and Prince Street, we shopped at Dean & Deluca.  Yvonne wanted to visit the gourmet grocer so she could buy gourmet treats for her Floridian friends (who are usually stuck with mediocre food made by American conglomerates).



It is an advantage of dwelling in a "big city", but because this is NYC, those foods are sold at a hugely-inflated price.  I'm certain that Parisians pay less than $3.50 for an almond croissant, and Londoners at Harrods see lower prices than $7 per slice of pate.












     Joey loved the stores: a far cry from the mammoth "box stores" of Florida.  
     He was amazed by how nice the New Yorkers were.  Lewis and I pointed out that we were deliberately steering him away from "tourist traps" and harried commuters.  If he wanted to see NYC rudeness, he could visit Fifth Avenue retailers, midtown department stores, subway platforms, sanitation depots, and real estate offices.  Ha ha!
     We paused at the trendy Gasoline Coffee Shop, located on Lafayette Street (named for a young French marquis who was instrumental to America winning its Revolutionary War of Independence).  


     Joey admired the metalwork used on the interior: reclaimed materials and refashioned window frames. 



     We paused at Jaques Torres Chocolatier for Yvonne to restock her supply.  Joey couldn't wait to see more!  Lewis marched us east to 2nd Ave and 6th Street, so Joey could admire the area called St. Mark's, full of quirky small shops.  We had an afternoon snack of fresh Maine lobster rolls at Luke's Lobster.



     We retraced our steps to have an afternoon ice cream treat at Van Leeuwen Artisan Ice Cream.  I love that brand!  The shop plays vinyl music (it was Johnny Cash, which Joey LOVED), and the barista/scoop-master was friendly.  A typically eclectic crowd mingled.  Joey was continually impressed by how NYers don't judge one another by appearance.  



I selected the Gianduja and the Dark Chocolate .  Joey ordered the Espresso and Coffee flavors (both Colombian beans).  Yvonne and Lewis shared some Ginger.  It was no surprise that Joey ordered another coffee, served politely in a red ceramic mug (with complimentary water).
     We took the (filthy) subway uptown...



... and toured Joey through the cozily fabulous Bryant Park.  We saw businessmen taking a break to play free ping-pong or bocce or read a book in the open-air "Reading Room".  Potted flowers filled all the urns around the park!






     As a highlight, we proudly showed off the grand Fifth Avenue Library, circa 1911.  It's on the National Register of Historic Places, and it's an American landmark.  For anybody who loves craftsmanship, stonework, and metalwork, the public library is a masterpiece!  (Book-lovers will also adore it).






















Joey was in awe, which "set the stage" for when Yvonne took him to Grand Central Station and some museums, the following day (seen here)...






     By the time we came down the steps of the library, we decided to head to our respective homes for naps and to refresh for our dinner reservations at Chez Josephine at 8PM (after the Theatre crowd dispersed for their 8 o'clock curtain calls).





     Evoking a Parisian milieu, the restaurant is colorful and always features live musicians (sometimes vocalists).







     The restaurant's flamboyant owner, Jean-Claude Baker--our very good friend--was delighted to see Yvonne again.  (He gave us a wink of approval about Joey).  Always attired in a Mandarin jacket, he is the last adopted son of American-French jazz singer, Josephine Baker. 



*I read his book, The Hungry Heart, which I recommend.  He proofread mine, Two Chameleons, which I recommend that you buy, too.  Here's the link:

https://halfwindsorfullthrottle.blogspot.com/2017/10/i-published-my-first-book.html


     Years ago, Lewis and I travelled to the Île-de-France (Isle of France), which is the capital region, and Jean-Claude gave us tips to have a grand vacation.  We often reminisce of his advice.



     The waitstaff, bartender, and pianist cheered to see us again.  The bartenders and waiters always know what cocktail to bring me when I walk in.  :-)



     Joining us for dinner was our globe-trotting friend Pierre.  Pierre and Yvonne were happy to see each other and quickly got caught up on social activities.  She described Joey's curiosity to see "big city" museums.  Gallantly, Pierre offered them his MoMA Members Pass for free admission to The Modern Museum of Art.  Yvonne also gushed about how Joey intended to take her on a vacation to Fiji, which is a member of the Commonwealth, headed by Queen Elizabeth.    
     Joey and I sipped martinis, while assorted cocktails were handed around the table.  Duck paté, escargot, fried oysters, chèvre ravioli, and a shared pasta were ordered as appetizers.  Chef Frank cooks the snails without shells and amidst garlic and greens.  It is a classic recipe from Dijon.


As an extra surprise, Jean-Claude gave each of us a shrimp cocktail.  The pianist took a request from our table, and a scrumptious dinner roared ahead with 2 bottles (chosen/sniffed by Pierre) of Sauvignon Blanc.  It was a long, languid, laughing meal.  We dined on chicken and beef entrees, with assorted veggies and whipped potatoes.  
     Jean-Claude positioned our handsome group at a big table in the front window (but within eye's view of the bartender, so we got our drinks faster).  It was Fleet Week, so we occasionally admired the sailors and marines strolling past.  We also admired some theatre employees and drag queens who trickled into the restaurant after 10pm.  We all chose panna cotta for dessert (Lewis' favorite).  I'm sure each of us drifted sweetly off the sleep that night, after such a delectable dinner!



*To learn more about Jean-Claude, please use this link:

     The next four days passed with Lewis and I returning to work, and Yvonne and Joey at a wedding with her family.  She took him to eat delectable dim sum in Chinatown on Canal Street...



...and then for an Italian feast at Noodle Pudding in Park Slope, Brooklyn.  It is near the historic Brooklyn Bridge.



     Joey was astounded to learn that the first permanent settlements in that area belonged to the Dutch in 1637.  It remained as useful farmland for two centuries, until the Industrial Revolution overran the City of Brooklyn, and then NYC consumed it in 1898.


     A month in advance, I made us lunch reservations at The Dutch, in order to guarantee a table.  Now, they only take reservations 2 weeks in advance.  Thankfully, I was able to wheedle the reservationist to give us our favorite corner baguette.  It's on the smaller half of the tile-covered dining room and near the dual-facing bar.  
     They don't admit it, but the restaurant might be named for the first Europeans to colonize Manhattan (they called it New Netherland)... or it might be named for an amazing culture that does so many things right.  It's situated on Prince Street, which is ironic because the Prince of Orange is the ancestor of the King of the Netherlands.




     Our waiter seemed like an experienced veteran, happily informing Joey that the menu changes regularly AND seasonally.  Since the restaurant sponsored a pig roast--in celebration of Memorial Day--pulled roast pork sandwiches were a juicy option.  Sold!  But first a cocktail!



     I had a shaker-full of The Botanist gin with a strand of lemon peel.  It's my latest discovery, and it's concocted with 25 herbal ingredients foraged on the Isle of Islay, in Argyll, Scotland.

It is DELICIOUS!  Joey sipped a blue-tinted Long Island Iced Tea, Yvonne had a blueish concoction that she devised, and Lewis sipped a Negroni.  We ate a "picnic style" feast with a tableful of shrimp salad, crab salad (over ice), beet salad, homemade macaroni salad (with just enough mayonnaise), 2 pork sandwiches, an order of spareribs, and cornbread with peach jam in a skillet.  For dessert, we shared homemade peach/rhubarb pie!  







     The Dutch's large windows were swung open, with the veranda shades extended, so we turned our heads to admire the sunshine glinting off of the brick buildings.



     Feeling content, we headed next-door to Once Upon A Tart, so Joey could buy a bag of cookies.  He admitted to having a penchant for cookies.  Lewis and I took him to Raffetto's Homemade Pasta Shop on Houston Street.  (It's not pronounced like Houston in Texas because it's named for William Houstoun, whose name is pronounced "house-ton".  He was a Founding Father of the USA).




    We restocked our fragrant Rosemary pasta (cut as Fettuccine) and tried some Parsley/Basil (cut as Linguine).  Oh, and a box of frozen lobster ravioli--in tomato pasta.  Lewis says they make the best lobster ravioli.  Joey was fascinated by how the women hand-cut the pasta or used an old-fashioned machine.  Yvonne compared what a great value the fresh pasta was, as compared to what she buys in Florida.





     Joey and Yvonne had already seen the Highline Park, so we walked up sunny Bleecker Street.  Joey continually admired the small public squares of the West Village, with their glistening fountains, playgrounds, tree-shaded alleys, and "regular people" (instead of foul-tempered commuters and hapless tourists).



We took a respite inside Grounded Coffeeshop.  They make the city's BEST iced cardamom coffee, which we all had.  Joey was enthusiastic in his chatter with the informative barista, as he asked about their coffees and selected an espresso and a tall coffee for himself.







     We sat on their mismatched furniture, sharing the velvet sofa.  We happily coexisted with 3 artistic folks planning something on their laptops, as well as a single fellow working on his laptop.  He happily eavesdropped on our conversation, confessing that he was enjoying his last day in Manhattan before returning to California.  Despite being new to the city, Joey happily have him sightseeing tips.



    We headed for the Chelsea Market.  It is akin to the San Miguel Market in the capital of Spain (seen below), which Lewis and I noshed in, a few years ago.  



*To see when we returned to it in Spain, please use this link:

     Along the way, Joey picked blossoms from windowboxes to put in Yvonne's hair. When her cropped haircut couldn't hold any more, he stuck some behind his own ear.  With his tight T-shirt and flowers, he attracted some hopeful appraisals from gay guys, which we thought was funny.  
     Joey LOVED the interior metalwork of Chelsea Markets: elevator doors, door-frames, waterfall, a knocked-through brick wall, and stores' fixtures.  Alas, since NYC is a never-ending construction zone, the exteriors of buildings can be uglier than their contents... as seen below.  








     As good fortune would have it, we paused at a cheese shop, Lucy's Whey, and Lewis found the dried strawberries that he searched 7 months for!  I was delighted to discover a rare Vermont small-batch goat cheese: Bonne Bouche.  We got both.



(Lewis and I loved the cheese, and we highly recommend it).




     We also sampled some refreshments from People's Pops in the form of a fig/strawberry freshly-made popsicle and a shaved ice (done right in front of you from a block of ice).  







     Joey was on an overload of great flavors.  I compared it to walking through Barcelona's tapas cafés… savoring different delicacies at various eateries.  



     As all good things must come to an end--so as to make way for new things.  Yvonne and Joey went to a dinner with her friends.  Joey mentioned that he had a plethora of metalwork ideas to share with his buddies at home!  As we neared our different subway stations, we gave tight hugs and kisses Goodbye.  Joey became our newest friend--a really likable, sincere, and decent Southern gent.  Several things were made new again for Lewis and I, by being appreciated through the new eyes of a visitor.  Such is the immense fun of meeting new people and building friendships around the world.  


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