Our friend from Japan visited NYC, and Lewis and I brought her to dine at Maialino. (We're staying with her during part of our vacation to Japan, next week. More on that to come). I'm enamored with Danny Meyer's restaurants because our respect for customer service and our focus on details and quality are so aligned. He is one of the world's preeminent restaurateurs, and I still cherish his book about hospitality and customer service.
Every New Yorker knows of his recent plight: the rent skyrocketed higher on his Union Square Cafe from an unappreciative landlord-heir who doesn't care about Meyer's contributions. In 1985, Meyer invested in that area when none of the local landlords cared to. Meyer's business and his creation of the greenmarket at Union Square Park allow landlords to charge higher rents for a "gentrified" neighborhood. Yet, without gratitude, Meyer's landlord-heir forced him out. Notoriously, he thanked Meyer for doing all the work to improve the area, but the man greedily wants more. (Those uncaring landlords sent a bad message to any would-be improvers; nobody will help them in the future).
Betrayed and heartbroken, Meyer found a new home for USC, and it will open before Thanksgiving. But, it won't be the same lovingly-created interior of the old one.
I read a recent article that Meyer took his culinary and design team to re-explore the Italian Peninsula... to refresh himself and immerse himself in the ambiance that first inspired his career in hospitality. That's correct; Meyer didn't find hospitality--as it should be done--anywhere in the vastness of America. He found it in Europe. In Italy, he discovered unrivaled ingredients and proper techniques for farm-to-table cooking. He learned that what separates a great restaurant from a forgettable one is the service and cuisine. He was a pioneer to spread those values in his ignorant homeland of the USA. Union Square Cafe was the first restaurant of his highly-prosperous Union Square Hospitality Group. In 1996, he opened Maialino.
Thus confident of greatness, we awaited our friend, Shirlyn, at the restaurant. It enjoys lush green surroundings because it's in Gramercy Park. The park's name derives from Dutch words Krom Moerasje = Little Crooked Swamp. I guess the area was swampy in that era. It looks nicer now.
Blissfully, we sat at the Bar (which also has a few tables for walk-ins).
Three upbeat and perceptive bar tenders were on duty. I tried a cocktail that was as autumnal as the night's breeze rustling the Gramercy Park trees. Rye, pear nectar, allspice and citrus rind--shaken and served "up". Perfection. I had two. Lewis ordered a Trentino Time Out: rum, Cappelletti (similar to Campari), Falernum (syrup of almond/ginger/cloves), and lime.
When Shirlyn arrived, a hostess escorted us (and carried our drinks) to our table in the Trattoria main dining room.
Our waitress appeared and introduced herself. She seemed to be a knowledgable veteran. We began with a cheese course: Baylen Hazen Bleu (cave-aged in Vermont), Grayson (like Reblochon... but from Virginia), and a sheep's milk Pecorino di Parco from Abruzzo, Italy).
*To see the trip that Lewis and I took to immerse ourselves in Italy, please click this link:
That selection was accompanied by organic honey & fresh bread.
Next was seared Octopus, winter squash, and peperoncino...
...alongside chicken liver mousse with Concord grapes.
As a shared pasta course, we tried their handmade Malfatti pasta with Suckling Pig and Arugula. It's one of Chef Nick Anderer's specialities. Perfecto!!
The cheerful sommelier matched our upcoming savory dishes with this great Barolo, made with Nebbiolo grapes from the Piedmont region.
Sublimely flavorful.
For dinner, I chose authenticity via a traditional Roman dish: Guanciale (Pig Cheeks, a.k.a. Pork Collar), sweet potato, and greens. Each tender forkful of pork was a dance across my tongue.
Lewis had poached Cod, with Clams, smoked potato, and Nduja (spreadable, piquant pork salume from Calabria, Italy).
It is distinctive and soooo tasty!
Our guest had one of the Specials: plump Scallops and fire roasted veggies!
Executive pastry chef, Jessica Weiss, is always a darling. She whipped up the best Tiramisu and Panna Cotta (made with ricotta, Concord grape jam, and thyme).
The tiramisu was so superb that it reminded Lewis of his trip to Venice! All we needed was a flying lion (the city's coat of arms)!
A scruffy barista made a fancy description and presentation of their Guatemalan coffee, served via a French press, served in pre-warmed cups and saucers, with dairy-fresh cream.
Throughout the 3-hour meal, the restaurant bustled with happy people of all races/ages. The always-dutiful staff worked cohesively: presenting/clearing courses, cleaning a breakage, laying table, and running food. Autumn-time flowers and gourds added color all around us.
Throughout the 3-hour meal, the restaurant bustled with happy people of all races/ages. The always-dutiful staff worked cohesively: presenting/clearing courses, cleaning a breakage, laying table, and running food. Autumn-time flowers and gourds added color all around us.
At 11pm, we departed, but they still had folks arriving at the casual-but-smart-looking bar. Others clustered at tables within the Cucina seating area, near the salami-carving station.
The nice thing about this place is that it serves excellence--with insouciance and aplomb--throughout each day from 7:30am to midnight: breakfast, brunch, lunch, dinner, and late night! Maybe you'll want to join us there?
*To see another dining experience there that was twice-as-amazing, please use this link:
