Saturday, February 21, 2015

Restaurant Review : Park Avenue South Winter

     Here's Lewis on the subway, delighted to be going to his birthday dinner with myself and Pierre...


     Today is officially our fourth-year anniversary, so Pierre intended to celebrate both occasions on that day.  We exited the 6-train at the handsome NY Life Building's subterranean subway entrance.  Its sort of like Grand Central, but classy because its Park Avenue South.  Many of those venerable old buildings had access to the subway, replete with grand and well-appointed connecting hallways from the subways to the lobbies.  The architects actually wanted you to realize that you had stepped into their handsome creation.  Below is the lobby of the building, which subway travelers (who hadn't already entered the building's interior) pass through to exit to the street, via Art Deco brass revolving doors.


One block away stood our destination: Park Avenue South Winter.  The restaurant changes its name's suffix with each season.  Previously called "Park Avenue ___", it was previously located on the UES's Park Avenue.


Thankfully, the owner found this locale on Park Avenue South, entitling him to keep the name of his restaurant.  The southernmost location "entitles" the restaurant to approach a more casual/creative form of ambiance, uniforms and service, as its new neighborhood dictates.  It reminds me of (NYC's) Mondrian meets (NYC's) Cafeteria meets (Chicago's) Public House.
     Mercifully, the maitre d' doesn't enforce that ridiculous policy of preventing you from going to your table until your entire party has arrived.  The hostess hospitably asked if we'd prefer to be seated immediately or wait for our fellow diner at the bar.  Lewis and I were suitably happy to deposit our outer layers at the Coat Check and be escorted to our snug table.  Maybe next time, we begin with an aperitif at the bar, which has some great linear décor, as seen below.


This restaurant occupies the space that formerly housed Hurricane Club, which Lewis and I had dined at, two winters ago.  We were impressed with how well they'd redecorated.  The vast dining rooms are bright and airy in daytime, but are cozily lit at night.


Compared with the picture above, the current season of Winter was affected by the abundant use of bare branches and clusters of vintage bulbs, as seen below.


There were votive candles flickering throughout the dining room: on each table, around the central column, even along the hallway to the lower-level restrooms… and even on each dividing wall between urinals.  I did admire the retro men's room: subway tiles, vintage streamlined lights, vintage brass faucets & knobs and Art Deco mirrors.


     Upstairs, there are 3 sections to the Dining Room.  We were seated in the main room, while a smaller room existed a few steps up from us, and another off to the side.  In addition to the Bar Room, there was Service Bar—which is a godsend for thirsty patrons.  We like restaurants with that amenity because drinks arrive swiftly, instead of servers having to wait for the regular bartenders.  Below, my martini arrived in a frosted "saucer glass" with Cerignola olives a wooden pick!


     A well-spoken and manicured Food Runner brought a hot metal skillet of Rosemary Rolls, with a small bowl of sea salt and a ramekin perfectly-soft butter.  It's always a testament to competence and courtesy when restaurants serve softened butter, instead of refrigerator-hardened blocks that cannot be spread on soft bread without tearing it.


Please pardon me for not taking too many pictures.  I dared not use a flash to ruin the milieu created by the restaurant (and it was too dim for my cellphone camera to take many pictures).
     I always appreciate that new restaurants always have shiny new silverware, too.
     The servers wore a uniform of white chinos/jeans, white shirts, white aprons and mostly white footwear.  Only the maitre d' and sommelier donned dark denim and sport coats.  Like trendier eateries, the waiters were allowed to customize their uniforms.  Some guys had slouchier pants: the apparently gay waitstaff had snug-fitting ones.  Some servers had chains, key fobs, bracelets, multiple earrings, and tattoos visible to differentiate their appearances.
     Our server, in slouchier pants, blonde ponytail and facial scruff, was cordial, attentive, and had learned his bedside manner.  He refolded napkins, held the chair when Pierre arrived, served the drinks off of small metal tray, unwrapped/uncorked & presented the bottle of wine (that the sommelier had chosen with Lewis—an Alsatian refreshing white), and crumbed the table.


My appetizer of Peekytoe Crab Cake was so flavorful!  My dinner choice of Pork Chop Schnitzel was delicious!  Fork-tender and yet crispy on the outside.  When our wine glasses were empty, we opted to share one dessert: an artistic block of dark chocolate ganache, filled with dense pudding-like mouse, accompanied by chocolate gelato and a step-like chocolate wafer.


However, our waiter had been advised that we were celebrating Lewis' birthday, so he brought another complimentary candlelit dessert: Homemade Pistachio Ice Cream sundae.  And, with a smile, he gave me a dessert, alongside my espresso: a Sticky Toffee Pudding alongside juicy grapefruit chunks.


As you can see, the setting is quite intimate—despite the high-ceilinged space.  Those bare branches create a tucked-away coziness.  Overall, the experience was extremely delightful.  The staff was always professional and "on the mark"—even when standing by at their stations.  The establishment has succeeded from working hard to make itself feel luxurious yet simple, trendy and welcoming, and grand yet organic.  We'll look forward to returning in springtime to see how they redecorate, and to taste their new seasonal menu.


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