Friday, March 23, 2018

Restaurant Review : Brunch at Union Square Cafe

     It was a sunny winter weekend, as Lewis and I brought our Houston friend to brunch at the "landmark" Union Square Cafe.  It is the perfect place to enjoy repartee at comfy tables with coddling service and excellent hand-made organic food.



     Three hosts greeted us at a rustic lamp-lit podium.  Potted tulips and daffodils lined the windowsills, and dotted the rustic credenzas around the staircase.  


     The bar was half-full of folks who--at 11 o'clock--were already imbibing cocktails in coupe stemware, and ordering full breakfasts from their barstools.  Double-fisted, the bartenders shook up magic, while baristas bustled around the aromatic Coffee Station.
     To provide a nice view of the interior for our friend, I asked the reservationist for a table on the mezzanine.  He complied, and we sat at a corner table overlooking the dining room, and in sight of the upper-balcony banquettes.  It's perfect for people-watching!  An ideal spot for our luxurious 3-hour brunch!



     First things first, we ordered lattes and citrus Danishes (2 for $6) made by the pastry chef.  The new/larger USC allows an in-house baking program, so you MUST savor its talent.  Lewis inquired about croissants, but our waiter apologized that they weren't in the current offering, which rotates seasonally.  As a typically accommodating member of USC Hospitality Group, he did offer to check with Daily Provisions, another Danny Meyer-owned coffeeshop/bakery next door.  How thoughtful!
     Our meal commenced with oven-fresh bread--with a lovely crust--and softened (spreadable) butter.  I'm always a fan of pepper mills, instead of shakers full of stale pepper.



     As appetizers, we shared Fritto Misto of calamari and cod, Pesto Polenta with Maitake mushrooms, and Cara Cara Orange salad with diced fennel, pine nuts, and Ricotta Salata.   Each forkful was heavenly: delicate flavors, well-matched, and well-rounded!  An added benefit is that you know all farm-to-table organic ingredients come from the vendors at the Union Square Farmer's Market.  



     As a pasta course, we enjoyed a piquant recipe of Pappardelle with wine-braised Duck ragu and shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano (above left).  That is one of my favorite cheeses!  Often imitated, the authentic one is made in the Reggio Emilia province of Italy.  *To see the trip that Lewis and I took to Italy to appreciate its food/culture, please click this link:



     Reggio has been the capital of the region for centuries, starting when the Duchy of Reggio began in 489 AD.  The cheese's recipe was first documented in 1254.  Made from cow's milk, "wheels" of cheese are brined for 25 days and then aerate in aging rooms for 12-24 months (as seen below)...


The region's unique air and climate create the perfect flavor.  In Italy, it is illegal to make a false variety... or change the recipe.

     The meal was as wonderful as my birthday dinner there, last August.  I love that kind of consistency.  To read about that meal, please click this link:


     Chef Carmen Quagliata's handmade pasta is just right, and the sauce is heady and just thick enough--like cassoulet.  It's an ideal recipe to fortify you against the chill of a March morning.
     My main course was Rainbow Trout, perfectly flaky above Farro salad with Pistachios, Caviar, and brown butter.  Lewis munched on Grilled Shrimp atop Avocado and winter citrus.  Our friend selected their charred Lamb Chops--succulent masterpieces.  They were coupled with Gruyere-Potato Gratin and Swiss Chard.  In lieu of Bacon, we shared Side Dishes of charred Brussels Sprouts and a platter of Spinach.  



     With my latte gone, I opted for their spin on a Bloody Mary.  Called a Red Herring, it involves Aquavit, green Chartreuse, tomato and spices.  I watched it prepared at the upstairs bar--which was transplanted piece-by-piece from the restaurant's original location.  



*A Bloody Mary is named for England's Queen Mary Tudor who began her reign in 1553.  As a follower of Roman Catholicism (which was intolerant of other religions), she massacred non-believers.

     Oddly, the coffee/tea menu is not printed on the Brunch/Bar menu; it's only on the Dessert Menu.  I think they ought to print it on both, since brunch often starts with coffee or tea.  Lewis ordered Hot Cocoa with house-made marshmallows.  




     Their caffeine is expertly made from locally-roasted beans purveyed by Joe Coffee in Brooklyn.  I admire that their teas are sourced from Taiwan, Japan, China, and their Darjeeling tea is from India, and mint tea is from the mountains of Greece.  For dessert, we shared a bunch of Biscotti and a caramelized Banana Tart alongside Honeyed ice cream & Macadamias.  



     I am more of a fan of biscotti than Lewis is, but their crisp flavors reminded him of his trip to Pisa!



     Our friend wondered why many Americans refer to Italians as Pisanos?  (They shouldn't).  Lewis blamed it on ignorance and a dependency on what they see on television.  It's similar to referring to Americans as New Yorkers.  Only someone from Pisa is called a Pisano.  

     Naturally, they have a cheese menu--to partake after your meal or as a mid-meal course.  However, our friend wanted to visit nearby EATALY for small-batch Italian specialties to bring home.  Our 3-hour meal was scrumptious, and the parade of servers who attended to us were harmoniously united in teamwork.  As a non-tipping restaurant (based on European examples), its staff still provides superior service.  Between courses, our table was always "marked" with fresh utensils from a Mise-en-place tray.  The tablecloth was crumbed regularly, and our unobtrusive waiter kept the delicate Province-style water glasses full.  



Food runners and bussers worked seamlessly.  Waiters refrained from rushing guests just to "flip tables"; the place is big enough to avoid that urge.  



     Our friend especially admired the hammered-copper sinks in the pocket-door restrooms.  Two-story windows made the sun-splashed restaurant so cheery that she wanted to take a stroll to Washington Park.  The bustling park gave us mini-concerts by a grand piano, a jazz trio, and a duo of steel drums.  Certainly, the harmony of the city impressed her.






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