We loved the lack of car horns, outdated truck engines, rowdy people, booming stereos, and loud trains. Every night, we slept with our hotel windows open, and we were never disturbed by the two tram tracks, outside. Heavenly! Please click this link to hear the noise pollution where we currently live in NYC...
Proving how quiet the trams are, watch this video from the open window of our hotel. Turn the sound on.
Compare such serenity to the disturbingly loud above-ground subway in Astoria, NYC—that can be heard from 5 streets away!
It was a lovely day to go shopping at a store (winkel). We went to many.
*It's important to note that America's credit cards are not accepted everywhere in the Netherlands. Perhaps it's because they charge fees to vendors "for the glorious convenience of using them". American Express cards are equally disfavored. (Despite Americans swankily flashing a Gold or Platinum Amex, those cards charge the highest fees to vendors AND cardholders "for the glorious privilege of using them"). Use debit cards, currency, or E.U. cards, instead.
We took the #14 tram one stop south and transferred to the westbound #19 tram (free with our City Cards).
Towering overhead at Prince Alexander Square, an ornate carillon clocktower chimed the time with songlike bells.
It is named Muiderpoort, and it was a City Gate built in 1770, designed in the Louis XVI style. Amsterdam had eight gates, which were shut at night for protective purposes. That was the only one remaining. Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte rode through it in 1811 when he conquered the feisty city. (He also required the Dutch to use surnames). Nowadays, pedestrians and cyclists can to go through the gate, but traffic goes around it.
We also saw a long neoclassical building: the Orange-Nassau Barracks. It reminded us of the barracks at Copenhagen's Rosenborg Castle. It was constructed by Napoleon in 1813 for his imperial garrison, but the French were expelled soon after. Dutch soldiers used it until 1987, and then it was repurposed for homes/offices).
*To see when we visited the longest-occupied barracks in the world, please use this link:
Prince Alexander Square is named for King Willem II's second son, who was a superb horseman in the calvary, the first Dutch royal to have his photograph taken, and the first to own a bicycle. In 1830, the King of England wanted him to marry the future Queen Victoria, but she snubbed him. An underlying reason might have been that Victoria's persuasive uncle was the newly-made King of the Belgians, after Belgium broke away from the Netherlands... and he finessed her betrothal to his nephew. Commensurate with Alexander's expertise, an armored regiment of Hussars is named after him in the Royal Netherlands Army.
We hopped off the tram near a canal-side coffeeshop named Back to Black. Amsterdammers adore it, and Lewis and I prefer to go where the locals go. It abuts Lijnbaansgracht: a canal named for 17th-century rope makers.
The eatery was founded by two intrepid women: Inge Bulthuis and Noortje Vlutters.
Its homey ambiance is enhanced by a pair of friendly cats who seem to live there.
The staff roasts their organic beans on a Giesen roaster. To provide great flavor/service, employees attend a Barista Bootcamp. Such things are examples of dedication.
Gaps of air under the crust.
Cheaply undersized amounts of filling.
Or mushy fillings that leak out.
Now look at slices of Dutch apple pie!
Clearly, calories are offset by the cycling culture!
(Lekker kontje).
We boarded another tram and rode it to the Museum Quarter, which is near many retailers.
Seen below, that gorgeous mansion was formerly the offices for Malaysian Airlines. It's one of many beauties in the area.
Looking out the tram's clean windows, the towers of the huge Rijksmuseum indicated that we were getting close.
We went to a street named P.C. Hooftstraat, which is akin to Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills. It was named in honor of the Renaissance playwright, Pieter Corneliszoon Hooft, born in 1581. (As a Germanic language, Dutch joins words, and "straat" means "street").
Enjoying an after-dinner stroll, we proceeded eastward on Oude Hoogstraat (Old High Street), in existence since the Middle Ages. The smallest house in Amsterdam—and the narrowest house in Europe—is there: #22. At 2.02 meters wide and 5 meters deep, it's occupied by a tiny two-level teashop that sells handmade baked goods. It is alongside the gate to Walloon Church that Hendrik de Keyser built in 1616.
Near our hotel, the bar at De Plantage Restaurant was hopping! Such good energy. A woman told us that the building was initially the zoo's concert hall. During WWII, the Nazi Reich Commissariat used it to store a civil register of 70,000 Jews that they intended to arrest. In 1943, members of the Dutch Resistance bombed it to destroy the records and help their Jewish neighbors. A tailor made faux police uniforms, medical students drugged the guards, and an openly gay man (in 1943!) was a ringleader. The assault team included painters, authors, newspapermen, lawyer, architect, historian, poet, and the lesbian artistic director of the Concertgebouw's chamber orchestra—the first European woman in such a rank. Conspiring with them, the fire department let the fire burn and then flooded the building with water to cause more damage. Most of the Resistance fighters were caught and executed, but it displayed courage and valor. In 1968, Israel recognized them as "Righteous Among the Nations."
All around us, people were jovial, welcoming, and having fun. The restaurant's terrace was full. Other people brought their own food and used the adjacent communal seating area. From the bike lane on the street, we heard cyclists dingle their handlebar bells. We adored the pleasurable scene.
Back in our room, we opened the windows for a cool breeze and barely heard any noise from the restaurant. Drifting off to sleep, we couldn't wait for another day in paradise.
We hopped off the tram near a canal-side coffeeshop named Back to Black. Amsterdammers adore it, and Lewis and I prefer to go where the locals go. It abuts Lijnbaansgracht: a canal named for 17th-century rope makers.
The eatery was founded by two intrepid women: Inge Bulthuis and Noortje Vlutters.
Its homey ambiance is enhanced by a pair of friendly cats who seem to live there.
The staff roasts their organic beans on a Giesen roaster. To provide great flavor/service, employees attend a Barista Bootcamp. Such things are examples of dedication.
Tap this image to clearly read about their tasty milk...
Lewis requested an espresso macchiato. Similar to our coffee experiences in Japan, it came on a wooden tray with a glass of water. It cost €2.40, whereas that drink costs $4.00 in my area of Astoria—and costs more in Manhattan. Using soy or oat milk only cost €0.15 extra. Most American coffeeshops charge a whole $1.00 extra, which is a rip-off. Their perfect croissants cost €1.95, whereas inferior ones cost $3.00 at my local cafes. Chocolate croissants cost €2.10 but cost $4.00 by me. (Notice the large increase of price for anything extra in NYC).
Prices include tax. When you buy a €2.40 espresso, there is no additional tax. Also, since it is a non-tipping culture, there is no additional gratuity. So your total purchase remains at only €2.40.
Lewis enjoyed their homemade quiche: vegan cheese, spinach, sun-dried tomato, and roasted capsicum peppers. I tasted their summertime speciality: cold-brew oolong tea. I couldn't resist ordering a thick slice of dense apple pie. The Dutch are obsessed with apple pie, which I love! Theirs had an aromatic lift via freshly-ground cinnamon and shaved almonds.
Prices include tax. When you buy a €2.40 espresso, there is no additional tax. Also, since it is a non-tipping culture, there is no additional gratuity. So your total purchase remains at only €2.40.
Lewis enjoyed their homemade quiche: vegan cheese, spinach, sun-dried tomato, and roasted capsicum peppers. I tasted their summertime speciality: cold-brew oolong tea. I couldn't resist ordering a thick slice of dense apple pie. The Dutch are obsessed with apple pie, which I love! Theirs had an aromatic lift via freshly-ground cinnamon and shaved almonds.
I appreciated the preparation: instead of leaving pockets of emptiness under the crust, their sliced apples fill up the entire pie with succulence! Perfect! Despite Johnny Appleseed being an American legend, most places across America serve poorly-made pies, like these...
Cheaply undersized amounts of filling.
Or mushy fillings that leak out.
Now look at slices of Dutch apple pie!
Clearly, calories are offset by the cycling culture!
(Lekker kontje).
We boarded another tram and rode it to the Museum Quarter, which is near many retailers.
Seen below, that gorgeous mansion was formerly the offices for Malaysian Airlines. It's one of many beauties in the area.
Looking out the tram's clean windows, the towers of the huge Rijksmuseum indicated that we were getting close.
*To see my visit to Beverly Hills, please click here:
During our day of shopping, Lewis wore his new high-tops.
*(Chanel uses calfskin from the Netherlands).
We like Japanese food, and everything was scrumptious: cold soba noodles with quail eggs, a Bento box of Thai beef and crispy duck rolls, and a sashimi platter. In a landlocked nation, we might doubt the freshness of its seafood, but this port-city of a coastal nation has generations of talented fishing trawlers and famously sustainable fisheries. Our amuse-bouche was traditional Dutch erwtensoep (also called snert), a thick split-pea soup with celery, leeks, carrots, and pork. We savored krokets, which are deep-fried meat croquettes: a famous snack. So good! Smakelijk!
After lunch, we rode north on the #12 tram.
We hopped off at Leidseplein (a square named for the road to Leiden) to explore the gorgeous 1894 International Theatre, which has a restaurant with rooftop seating.
Above is the view from its rooftop. Below is the street view.
Within the three-level store, I bought a cranberry-colored slim-fit sweater, and Lewis bought summer dresses for his cousins.
We went to The Nine Streets, a delightful neighborhood of small shops that has been that way for 400 years. It is a mix of hipster retailers, vintage wares, and specialized boutiques. We had nice chats with shopkeepers. Some gave us cucumber-flavored cups of water, as we browsed their stores. We also noticed the Jamaican Consulate.
Lewis admired the affordability of eyewear at Ace & Tate. It's on Hartenstraat (Deer Street). There's also a Wolf Street, Bear Street, and Cow Street.
Seen above, Lewis bought a freshly-made log of marzipan at Chocolatier Pompadour. Everything is handmade with the purest raw ingredients. The patisserie's wood paneling was crafted in 1795 and reclaimed from an old Belgian building.
In another shop, we saw an attractive display of Gouda cheeses famously produced in the City of Gouda.
Seen below, an impeccable attendant—from the Polynesian country of New Zealand (named for the Netherlands' Zeeland Province)—helped us. He loves living in the Netherlands!
I tried a Dutch cask-aged, single-malt whiskey made by Us Heit, who previously only distilled genever. Seen above, my drink came with an embossed ice cube. Lewis ordered a Cuban Mist: a smoked mixture accompanied by smoked prosciutto.
As the setting sun bathed the city in glowing light, we dined at Oriental City. It is a Chinese mainstay. It is located in the Damstraatjes, an area of streets leading to Dam Square.
We enjoyed their piquant recipes for Dim Sum: steamed pork buns, prawns, bok choy, crab shui mai, jasmine rice, and spare ribs slathered in sauce. For dessert, we ate egg custard tarts.
(We do not wear clothes to impress people; we wear patterns and colors that we like. The Dutch seem to agree with our sartorial philosophy).
The Netherlands is one of the world's best exporting countries. It has the world's oldest stock exchange, created in 1602. For centuries, it was the financial center of Europe. It is one of the leading European nations attracting foreign investment, and it is one of the five largest investors in the United States. It has the fourth-most competitive economy in the world, according to the World Economic Forum's Global Competitiveness Report. That all creates a booming retail milieu. Culturally, the Dutch avoid flashy displays of wealth, yet high-end shops are prosperous here.
At the only Bottega Veneta boutique in the Netherlands, Lewis chatted with a China-born salesgirl, Jin, who moved there six years ago to study Sociology. Employed at the store for 2 years, she speaks a small amount of Dutch and is still able to blend successfully within the society. Everyone speaks English as a common denominator. She loves the city, its balance of life/work, her civic-minded community, and cycling to work.
She was happy that Amsterdam recently got its first female mayor, seen below wearing a fealty chain (symbolic loyalty to the monarch).
The burgemeester [mayor] is appointed by the Crown, and the municipal council is elected by the residents. We're not sure when NYC's government will allow a woman to become mayor; NYC authorities are mostly macho... and hugely corrupt.
Speaking to Lewis in fluent Mandarin, she was kind and facilitated his wallet purchase, which was unavailable in the U.S.A.
At the two-story Chanel boutique, we patiently waited outside in the queue and were soon helped by Lorraine, an ex-New Yorker who emigrated to Amsterdam 10 years ago and loves it! Her life is better, taxes produce more benefits, Universal Healthcare is a godsend, food is healthier, mass transit is reliable, the city is clean, and people are good-natured. Her store's hours are 10-6, closed on Sunday, and 12-6 on Monday. Ironically, she will travel to NYC soon and intends to have lunch with Lewis in SoHo near his Chanel boutique. Lewis suggested our favorite restaurant in SoHo, named The Dutch!
*(Chanel uses calfskin from the Netherlands).
While browsing in other stores, we discovered that the global payment portal, Adyen, is a Dutch company headquartered in Amsterdam. (The city is a haven for entrepreneurs and techies, and Dutch culture teaches people not to accept the status quo and to seek innovative solutions). Two Dutchmen founded Adyen in 2006 to replace the world's outdated patchwork of payment technologies. The company's name is Surinamese and means "to start over again".
Since the Netherlands is the "denim capital of the world", we visited the Denham flagship store. Its hours are 10-7, and 12-6 on Sunday and Monday. The showroom had Asian influence and a clever use of scissors as shelving. A neat patio existed in the back.
Across the street, we lunched at MOMO, a Japanese restaurant inside the 4-star Park Hotel Amsterdam—with Green Globe certification and a Michelin Plate award. Created by Yossi Eliyahoo in 2008, it was a gastronomic pioneer in the Netherlands. It has lovely views of the Singlegracht: the outermost canal ring.
We like Japanese food, and everything was scrumptious: cold soba noodles with quail eggs, a Bento box of Thai beef and crispy duck rolls, and a sashimi platter. In a landlocked nation, we might doubt the freshness of its seafood, but this port-city of a coastal nation has generations of talented fishing trawlers and famously sustainable fisheries. Our amuse-bouche was traditional Dutch erwtensoep (also called snert), a thick split-pea soup with celery, leeks, carrots, and pork. We savored krokets, which are deep-fried meat croquettes: a famous snack. So good! Smakelijk!
*To see our trip to the archipelago of Japan, please click here:
https://halfwindsorfullthrottle.blogspot.com/2016/11/our-trip-to-japan-1-of-6.htmlAfter lunch, we rode north on the #12 tram.
We hopped off at Leidseplein (a square named for the road to Leiden) to explore the gorgeous 1894 International Theatre, which has a restaurant with rooftop seating.
Above is the view from its rooftop. Below is the street view.
We arrived at Koningsplein (King's Square). In the early 1600s, it was named for the King of France: Henry the Great. Creating relationships with faraway places, he was one of the most progressive and popular French rulers.
We entered the curved doors of Arket. We enjoyed the friendly service, full inventory, cafe, and creative displays. The fitting rooms had pillowed chairs, mint-flavored pitchers of water, and a recycle bin for the eco-friendly paper cups.
Within the three-level store, I bought a cranberry-colored slim-fit sweater, and Lewis bought summer dresses for his cousins.
That area begins the Gouden Bocht (Golden Bend), with the city's grandest double-wide canal mansions. It starts at Koningssluis (King's Lock), a bridge built in 1921 by Piet Kramer and using stonework by Hildo Krop. A bridge stood there since 1662.
We also spotted one of the city's Maserati taxis!
We went to The Nine Streets, a delightful neighborhood of small shops that has been that way for 400 years. It is a mix of hipster retailers, vintage wares, and specialized boutiques. We had nice chats with shopkeepers. Some gave us cucumber-flavored cups of water, as we browsed their stores. We also noticed the Jamaican Consulate.
Lewis admired the affordability of eyewear at Ace & Tate. It's on Hartenstraat (Deer Street). There's also a Wolf Street, Bear Street, and Cow Street.
Seen above, Lewis bought a freshly-made log of marzipan at Chocolatier Pompadour. Everything is handmade with the purest raw ingredients. The patisserie's wood paneling was crafted in 1795 and reclaimed from an old Belgian building.
In another shop, we saw an attractive display of Gouda cheeses famously produced in the City of Gouda.
Our next stop was Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal (New Side Front Bastion Wall), which was a walled canal in the 1350s. As times changed, it was filled in and paved into a road.
Now, the only water in its proximity is atop the W Hotel.
Now, the only water in its proximity is atop the W Hotel.
Walking down Palace Street, we entered a castle-like shopping center called Magna Plaza—initially the central post office. Full of mid-priced items, we bought a pair of miniature wooden clogs. The elderly shopkeeper was extremely friendly and asked us to (honestly) remind her of the price. We did.
In stores that occupy historic buildings, if you don't want the escalators, you can still use the steep winding staircases.
Enjoy the musical background as a tram speeds towards me. :-)
From there, we saw the flags of our next destination, as seen here...
Enjoy the musical background as a tram speeds towards me. :-)
We walked to the nation's most upscale department store: de Bijenkorf, which means "the Beehive". Founded in 1870 by Simon Goudsmit, his widow and son expanded and built that flagship in 1909. Along with Selfridges in London, the chain is now owned by Ireland's richest family: the Weston clan. Next year, the gorgeous store celebrates 150 years!
The store has a lovely mix of luxury brands and value-minded brands. After browsing several shoe collections, Lewis wanted to see the rooftop Food Court. It has outdoor seating, a conveyer belt for dirty dishes, and a spaciously sleek dining area.
The Patisserie bakes everything in its own kitchen, in coordination with its own chocolatier. Lewis was impressed: he likes a good shoe, as well as a good choux. Ha ha! The bakery is certified for International Food Standards, using sustainably grown ingredients, such as cacao from the Dominican Republic. (We visited a cacao planation in DR, and its chocolate is truly delicious. To read about that, please use this link: https://halfwindsorfullthrottle.blogspot.com/2017/10/dominican-republic-vacation.html).
The rooftop cafe has a pretty view.
Seen above, the clocktower belongs to the Stock Exchange of 1902. Its now an event space. When he was the crown prince, Willem-Alexander used it for his civil marriage to Máxima, who is from Buenos-Aires, Argentina.
Seen above, the clocktower belongs to the Stock Exchange of 1902. Its now an event space. When he was the crown prince, Willem-Alexander used it for his civil marriage to Máxima, who is from Buenos-Aires, Argentina.
Lewis made purchases with a very polite salesman (verkoper). It was a busy day, yet we never felt rushed. Unlike the scene of snobbery in Pretty Woman, customers from "all walks of life" were treated courteously.
On the fourth floor, Lewis got his Value Added Tax (VAT) refunded in a roomy lounge (so we didn't have to go to an agency at the airport). We refreshed with chilled water and rested on leather sofas.
On the fourth floor, Lewis got his Value Added Tax (VAT) refunded in a roomy lounge (so we didn't have to go to an agency at the airport). We refreshed with chilled water and rested on leather sofas.
Seen below, an impeccable attendant—from the Polynesian country of New Zealand (named for the Netherlands' Zeeland Province)—helped us. He loves living in the Netherlands!
We were in the mood for cocktails, and we asked for his recommendation. He suggestion a well-regarded bar named Bar The Tailor. It is inside the 5-star NH Collection Amsterdam Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky. We went there.
I tried a Dutch cask-aged, single-malt whiskey made by Us Heit, who previously only distilled genever. Seen above, my drink came with an embossed ice cube. Lewis ordered a Cuban Mist: a smoked mixture accompanied by smoked prosciutto.
As the setting sun bathed the city in glowing light, we dined at Oriental City. It is a Chinese mainstay. It is located in the Damstraatjes, an area of streets leading to Dam Square.
In existence for 30 years, the Cantonese restaurant is lovely. Speaking in fluent Cantonese, Lewis cajoled the hostess to seat us on the second floor, with great views.
Our succulent roast duck came on a smokey bed of "dry ice" —a coincidental continuation from our cocktails!
There were no fortune cookies because the Dutch know that they are not part of Chinese gastronomy. Japanese immigrants brought them to California at the turn-of-the-century. After America racistly and illegally imprisoned Japanese immigrants and citizens during WWII, Americans still wanted fortune cookies. They urged Chinese restaurants to make them, and the Japanese cookie industry was assumed by Chinese immigrants in California. In typical American style, the treats were perverted into nothingness and are still ignorantly applied to China. Americans are the only ones who still expect fortune cookies from basic Chinese restaurants, uncaring that it's the wrong culture.
Enjoying an after-dinner stroll, we proceeded eastward on Oude Hoogstraat (Old High Street), in existence since the Middle Ages. The smallest house in Amsterdam—and the narrowest house in Europe—is there: #22. At 2.02 meters wide and 5 meters deep, it's occupied by a tiny two-level teashop that sells handmade baked goods. It is alongside the gate to Walloon Church that Hendrik de Keyser built in 1616.
Near our hotel, the bar at De Plantage Restaurant was hopping! Such good energy. A woman told us that the building was initially the zoo's concert hall. During WWII, the Nazi Reich Commissariat used it to store a civil register of 70,000 Jews that they intended to arrest. In 1943, members of the Dutch Resistance bombed it to destroy the records and help their Jewish neighbors. A tailor made faux police uniforms, medical students drugged the guards, and an openly gay man (in 1943!) was a ringleader. The assault team included painters, authors, newspapermen, lawyer, architect, historian, poet, and the lesbian artistic director of the Concertgebouw's chamber orchestra—the first European woman in such a rank. Conspiring with them, the fire department let the fire burn and then flooded the building with water to cause more damage. Most of the Resistance fighters were caught and executed, but it displayed courage and valor. In 1968, Israel recognized them as "Righteous Among the Nations."
All around us, people were jovial, welcoming, and having fun. The restaurant's terrace was full. Other people brought their own food and used the adjacent communal seating area. From the bike lane on the street, we heard cyclists dingle their handlebar bells. We adored the pleasurable scene.
Back in our room, we opened the windows for a cool breeze and barely heard any noise from the restaurant. Drifting off to sleep, we couldn't wait for another day in paradise.
Slaap lekker en droom fijn!
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