Lewis and I have a friend named Kristen. Born in suburban New Jersey, she relocated to Manhattan's Financial District for her job: Finance Information Technology. To our delight, she is not one of those Manhattanites who refuse to leave their zip codes. (Lewis is a born/bred Manhattanite who loves exploring). She happily accepted our invitation to visit Astoria.
We suggested the new ferry route between FiDi and Astoria.
Agreeing with us, she chose that 50-minute ride, rather than the 60-minute crappy subway (which is extra-delayed/rerouted on most weekends).
Unlike first-world cities, NYC's ferries are not included in its Metro Card for public transportation. Greedily, they cost an entire additional fare. To read about the opening of the ferries, please click this link:
Unfortunately, half of that ferry route overlooks Consolidated Edison's power-plants, which monopolize 80% of Astoria's and Long Island City's shorelines (and pollute its water). They are blights on the skyline of the East River. Kristen saw these unsightly monstrosities during her ride:
Con Edison Substation on Gold Street, Vinegar Hill, Brooklyn.
Con Edison Power Generating Station, 14th St., Manhattan.
Con Edison Learning Center (which occupies 1,200 feet of the riverfront in Long Island City).
Con Edison Ravenswood Power Generating Station.
Con Edison Substation on Gold Street, Vinegar Hill, Brooklyn.
Con Edison Power Generating Station, 14th St., Manhattan.
Con Edison Learning Center (which occupies 1,200 feet of the riverfront in Long Island City).
Con Edison Ravenswood Power Generating Station.
(Thankfully, the ConEd power station at Manhattan's East 75th Street was obscured by Roosevelt Island).
Is that attractive? No. But NYC still charges high prices for the "privilege" of living along its ugly shorelines.
Stupidly, NYC allowed ferry routes to most areas, except for the obvious one that could connect Astoria to Manhattan. Seen below, the missing route seems the easiest way to unburden citizens' commutes to Manhattan... but NYC refuses.
Such a lack of smart infrastructure or transit convenience is not a surprise. The wealthy Upper East Side does not want crosstown traffic. Hence, there is only a SINGLE subway line on the UES--that only makes two stops within 40 blocks--and it is therefore the most congested/unhelpful line in America. The city doesn't care, and it doesn't offer alternatives. Therefore, Astorians must endure a 60+ minute subway ride (involving a transfer to another line) to get to that part of Manhattan.
*To read about that, please click this link:
We waited by the quay, watching for her boat to "sail in".
Sometimes, the tiny beach at Hallets Cove hosts free kayaking and aquamarine studies (seen below). Measuring a mere 200-feet, it is one of the only slivers of beachfront in the entire 73,400-acre county. (Power plants and airports block the taxpaying citizens from most access to the water).
Kristen's scenery improved, as she saw the rocky shoreline of Socrates Sculpture Park, on the East River.
She came ashore, and we strolled along the riverfront boulevard. We admired historic buildings and a dog-friendly coffeeshop called Chateau Le Woof (which has a dog grooming shop attached). One half is for people without dogs, and one enclosed room is for people with dogs.
Across the street, we entered the iconic orange gates of Socrates Sculpture Park. Kristen exhibited her uncanny knowledge of canines by identifying owners' rare breeds--much to their delight!
We admired the blossoms, bumblebees, and the busy artist studio... ready to install the last artwork of the year.
Kristen treasured the tree-lined streets of low-rise buildings.
We paused to watch kids enjoy a new playground, with hand-activated water sprays (similar to one by Steinway Street).
We ambled along, letting Kristen decide which streets or boulevards to turn onto. Fate steered us.
Kristen enjoyed the juxtaposition of historic and new buildings, as well as the plethora of urban gardens. She was impressed that houses with verandas and porches still existed!
Taking advantage of mild weather, the owners of a Victorian home had a decorating service install Christmas lights, for the end of the year. (It always looks like this).
She wanted to visit Astoria Coffee. She enjoyed their newest blend of drip-coffee, while Don--the expert-barista--pulled my espresso.
Per usual, the effervescent crowd of customers swelled and subsided like ocean waves. Kristen "soaked up" the good vibes and loved that day's Count Basie soundtrack.
Across the street, Kristen went grocery shopping at Sai Organics. She loved the prices of things in Astoria, as compared to needlessly-overpriced Manhattan and Brooklyn.
The owners are from Bangladesh, which is part of the Commonwealth that is headed by Queen Elizabeth II. Bringing their culture's sense of hospitality, they maintain a clean orderly store, with homemade baked goods, soups (which they give samples of), and vegan sandwiches. Unlike most NYC shopkeepers, they are happy to see you enter their oasis of serenity. In return for doing business with them, they give a free gift of coconut water, juice, or coffee--for every $20 spent. Their prices are fair (which is a great value), and ingredients are clearly listed.
Further down the street, we came upon side-by-side Greek-owned greenmarkets. Kristen cherished the freshness, abundance, and 24-hour availability.
Signaling the arrival of autumn, crates of apples were on the sidewalk, and the last heirloom tomatoes lingered ($4 per-pound cheaper than in Manhattan).
As seen above, the apples come from an orchard called Klein's Kill. "Kill" is the old Dutch word for "river". Located in Germantown (110 miles away in upstate New York), the 600-acre fruit farm sells luscious apples. We like Braeburn apples, which are a breed begun in the British Commonwealth Realm of New Zealand. We enjoy crunchy Crispin apples... originally named Mutsu because they were bred in Japan. We also adore Fuji apples, also from Japan and named after Mount Fuji. *[Incidentally, that Germantown was actually founded by Dutch settlers in 1614. In 1710, it was sold to Queen Anne of England to be used for her German refugees. Their presence gave it that name in 1775].
Sauntering along 30th Avenue, we let Kristen choose wherever she wanted to have lunch. Both sides of the street are filled with cuisines from all around the world. She chose Tikka Indian Grill, and it was Lewis and my first time there.
The open-air dining room was tidy, the menus came on iPads, and the Indian servers were courteous and helpful. Water came in rubber-corked bottles, and we drank from stainless steel goblets. Fresh ingredients from local vendors were mixed with spices imported from India. We savored the Paneer Cheese Naan, Aloo Gobi Samosas, zesty Chicken Vindaloo, and Tikka Masala Lamb. For dessert, we enjoyed Rice Pudding and Pistachio Kulfi. The meal was affordable and the service was so polite.
For Lewis and I, the experience was evocative of our exploration of India. To read about that, please go here:
It's a good thing that we walked 5.5 miles that day, because our next stop was Leli's Bakery. That European bakery is one of the best in Astoria and makes so many things so well. Kirsten bought a classic Black & White cookie (with perfect consistency icing).
She was impressed that sidewalk cafés used actual dishes and glassware, instead of plastic. Obviously, it makes a nicer presentation, and hot beverages stay hotter in warmed ceramic. But it's also classy... even just for a quick espresso.
Adjacent was Dave & Tony's Salumeria, an Italian market.
Famous for its fair-prices and fresh-from-Europe products, the shop makes its own pasta, mozzarella cheese, and thickly made-to-order heroes on fresh bread. Kristen bought two bunches of handmade linguine.
When business owners are less greedy, and landlords are less greedy, the whole neighborhood can flourish. In that regard, Astoria is a rare oasis in NYC. Yet, it is slowing eroding, as new developers seize properties, demolish, and erect overpriced apartment buildings. In the meantime, Kristen loved how homeowners grew their own grapes, roses, and veggies. She said that it reminded her of rural France!
A highlight was ordering freshly-roasted coffee at Balancero, where the owners--and my hairstylist, next door--oozed their European hospitality! Within an hour, they were greeted by 12 loyal customers--who just popped in to chat and not necessarily for caffeine! Their heartfelt joy of serving their neighbors was palpable and fun.
Kristen adored a perfectly-flaky croissant (baked/delivered that day from the neighboring town). Even though we stayed after closing-time of 6pm, Zoran (the chef/owner of the café) was delighted to continue chatting with us!
As always, his music was great. Enjoy this quick video, and turn the sound on...
Zoran told me about a new emission-free train in Germany (something that would never happen in pollution-happy America).
Thanking him for his hospitality, we departed and admired sunflowers growing along the sidewalk.
We passed a stone church circa 1926. The groundskeeper smiled at us and told us that the organist was rehearsing. He asked if we wanted to go in and listen? We did, so he unlocked the side door and let us inside! He was so welcoming and unafraid of strangers.
Continuing our way south to Broadway, I spotted some of the first signs of autumn: leaves turning color in the September breezes!
Broadway is equally full of eateries, and Kristen was thrilled by it.
The Turkish chef of his own fair-priced restaurant, Lokanta, was outside and recognized me and waved at us.
We ducked into Queens Bakeshop, run by French pastry chefs and graduates of the NY's French Culinary Institute. (It is named for Queens County, which was named for England's Queen Catherine of 1683).
Delighted with such perfection, we peered around the corner and investigated what was new at Lockwood Gift Shop, which was surprisingly busy on a Saturday evening at 7pm! Everything was artisanal and quirky--designed to bring good energy to mundane tasks.
From Parisi Italian Bakery, Lewis advised Kristen to buy freshly-made (filled upon order) cannoli. Already, Kristen's tote bag sagged with abundance!
Down the road, we showed her the Asian-operated Broadway Natural Market. With immense hospitably, the clean organic shop impressed her. Their kitty--who loves Lewis--leapt through the aisle to greet him! Displaying her affection for animals, Kristen got affection from that cute cat.
Feeling refreshed, appreciated, and revitalized from a day within New York City (odd to say that, huh?), Kristen thanked us profusely for an action-packed yet relaxed-paced day! Avoiding the filthy subway (despite her prepaid Metro Card), she opted to pay extra for the "more reliable/cleaner" ferry to get home. We escorted her to the waterfront.
As the sun began setting, she loved how the low skyline allowed more daylight! She commented, "This whole day feels like it was in an entirely different land!"
*[Months later, when it was time for Kristen to relocate from Manhattan's overhyped FiDi area, she remembered our Walking Tour of Astoria, and it convinced her to move there! Being extra-helpful, I spent a day with her, looking for apartments, and she got one. She was always grateful to us].
We arrived on-time for the ferry.
Unlike the uncaring (and overpaid) MTA subway workers, the privately-operated ferry workers went "above and beyond" to wait for a young man who ran to the dock at the last minute to catch the ferry. In fact, the ferry was nearly full of people and cyclists--preferring it to the crumbling subway or overpriced (surcharged) Uber / Lyft services. It is a shame that--despite our high taxes and pricy Metro Cards--we have to pay extra just to have decency.
It also illustrated that Astoria succeeds because it is full of people from other parts of the world where decency and hospitality are instilled and supported.
*To see another Walking Tour of Astoria that I gave to our friends who visited from Toronto, Canada, please use this link:
FYI, your hair stylist is not Croatian.
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