Tuesday, June 9, 2015

Walking Tour : Part 1 of 3 - Astoria Streets / Broadway / Food & Architecture


     Welcome to Queens County, a.k.a the Borough of Queens, one of five boroughs within New York City.  It is the most culturally diverse county in the United States of America.  Its northwest neighborhood of Astoria is historic, and I live there.  In 1683, Queens County was created in honor of Queen Catherine, wife of King Charles II of England (who took NYC from the Dutch).  Seen above, its coat of arms features the Tudor Rose.  Queens was annexed by New York City in 1899; its municipalities were dissolved, its funds were taken, and its neighborhoods deteriorated.  Fighting against being absorbed by NYC, half of the county seceded and became Nassau County.  
     Even though it doesn't have counts or countesses anymore, America is one of the few nations that still refers to its administrative regions as counties.

Please use this link to learn some of Queens' history and charm: http://halfwindsorfullthrottle.blogspot.com/2012/12/part-xxiii-0-false-18-pt-18-pt-0-0.html

     As a resident of 4 years, I am able to call myself an "Astorian".  It is cool to have a moniker!  Arguably the most popular neighborhood in Queens--and definitely one of the most in-demand areas to live in NYC--Astoria has great charm.  


     Due to its proximity to Manhattan, it has a quick travel time via the subway (when the subway operates correctly), and its slogan is "Only 15-minutes to Bloomingdales".  (We want a ferry route across the river, but the city is uninterested, as usual).


Residents identify with whichever subway stop they're closest to.  e.g.: "I live in Astoria, off the Broadway stop".


*Technically, I reside between the Broadway and 30th Ave subway stations.  Lewis and I were thankful for that when the slovenly Metropolitan Transit Authority was pressured by real estate developers to finally upgrade its dilapidated above-ground stations.  Typical of the corrupt MTA, the 4-month project was needlessly delayed by workers to gain more overtime.  It took more than a whole year for each station!  Renters who overpaid to live near a station were forced to walk several blocks to the next station--twice a day... for a year.  Thankfully, Lewis and I were always between two options!

     Please accompany me on a Walking Tour of the area.


     Many people complain that the city's boroughs lack trees.  Astoria is home to many types: London planetree, Norway Maple, Linden, Pin Oak, Hickory, Birch, Sassafras, and Ginkgo.  New ones arrive annually.


     Due to Astoria's history, you'll encounter old, thick trees that lived for more than a century. 







     You will also see an assortment of buildings: Queen Anne, Victorian, Edwardian, Art Deco, ugly 1970s "cubes", and modern sleek ones.  


     Originally occupied by stately homes in the 1820s, Astoria developed as a sturdy middle-class neighborhood.  Much of that was prompted by the lovingly-planned "company town" built by the famous piano-maker, Heinrich Steinway.  Unlike the profiteering and domineering "company towns" operated by Ford Motors and Carnegie Steel, his had well-made homes, church, summertime amusement park, library, and streetcars (which delivered library books).  Unlike modern American companies that demand government incentives, he used his own funds to build his own railway tunnel to Manhattan.  (It was taken by the NYC subway, which refuses to improve its steepness, and that prevents efficient train flow).  Steinway's factory in Astoria is still operational, supplying superb pianos for the Americas; the original one in Hamburg supplies the rest of the world.  The company was bestowed Royal Warrants from England, Italy, Norway, Sweden, Portugal, Persia, Russia, Romania, Spain, and Turkey.  Alas, his mansion in Astoria was neglected for decades, due to a lack of preservation by NYC's officials.  Steinway Street commemorates him as the neighborhood's only north-south retail strip.  
     Escaping the tightness of Manhattan, people moved onto the generously-proportioned plots of land.  (Alas, now those homes are torn down, and two buildings are greedily squeezed onto the land... leaving no grass).  The elevated subway to Manhattan was erected in 1917, and the population boomed.  A tight-knit community was formed.  There was in influx of Italians in the 1960s, and Greeks in the 1970s.  Now, young professionals and "struggling artists" of every nationality share the sidewalk cafés and boulevards with elderly couples and families.  
     Manhattanites--who usually don't travel beyond their zip code--might not realize what a solid neighborhood it is.  Astoria is famous for having every type of cuisine intermixed everywhere; there is no "district" for any ethnicity.  It is also known for its high-quality "coffee culture" and street art.  



     Astorians are grateful for the low-skyline of buildings.  Many properties remind me of a European village: each home is punctuated with garden greenery.  




Others are gutted, with larger windows, to give a "loft" vibe.


     Each home is unique, and residents have pride in their buildings and carefully maintain them.  There is always attractive scenery.










     Certain row-buildings have back-alleys or garages.  Residents created gardens and patios on them.  Lets turn into a driveway that leads to an alley.



     If you cross south over beyond Broadway, you will encounter this Art Deco carillon tower.  It is part of a church and plays music at 12 and 3 o'clock.


     Broadway is the main east-west thoroughfare.  You'll notice low-rise storefronts, eateries and bakeries.  Many offer outdoor sidewalk seating.


     On the corner of 36th Street is Mokja, serving amazing Korean cuisine by an inventive woman from South Korea.








     District Saigon is a trendy Vietnamese place with artisanal cocktails and flavorful fare!  









     After going west under the ugly subway tracks...


.... you encounter Bakeway, which purveys traditional confections, as well as organic birch beer, chicory coffee, and loose-leaf teas.  A corner is used as a free library--operating on the honor code.









     Beir & Cheese has a location on Broadway, with a garden in the back.  It's stocked to the hilt with artisanal cheese, charcuterie, condiments, ale, and hard cider.  They make tasty sandwiches, if you don't mind the "slow food movement"... literally (because their employees are ridiculously slow-paced).




     "Broadway Natural" is health-food shop that sells small-batch, organic products.  Lewis and I join savor their freshly blended fruit/veggie juices, nutritious snacks, vegan cookies and chips, Tulsi tea, and sheep's milk yogurt!  


The owner's cat is often spotted, too.  She likes it when Lewis pets her during our grocery shopping.




    Speaking of "healthy"--and avoiding wheat flour--you can get Spelt bagels at Brooklyn Bagel on Broadway and 30th Ave.



     There's always something interesting to see along Broadway, ranging from deliveries to unique vehicles and window-painting.









Speaking of "something to see", Icon is a gay bar at 33rd Street.




     For a different kind of sausage, try the smoked Berkshire ones sold at Family Market.  This Japanese market on Broadway has a myriad of unique flavors, savory snacks, seaweed chips, mochi, the freshest daikon, and the MOST courteous service.




    Three blocks away, another gourmet experience can be found at Green Bay Market.


     Many eateries have backyard gardens, like Leng (Thai) 






... and Lockwood Gift Shop's "Secret Garden".





     So much food in Astoria!

     Nightlife is encouraged at Omonia Café (Greek).



     Nearing Crescent Street (one of the few non-numerated streets that also retained its curve since the 1860s), New York Oyster Bar is a handsome place to grab the freshest oysters.





     Lewis browses loaves of daily-baked bread at Parisi Bakery (equally famous for their freshly-filled cannoli and St. Joseph's tarts).



     A lovely thing about Astoria is that you can buy handcrafted foods, like small-batch ravioli, tripe simmered in sauce, and homemade mozzarella at D & F Italian Deli.






*To see our trip to Italy where ate authentic recipes--such as tripe and artisanal cheeses--please click this link...



     Further down the street, Pye Boat makes delicious, authentically-spicy dishes, as well as strong Moscow Mule cocktails (in the proper copper mug).


     Hand-roasted pour-over coffee and honied mead is available at Queens Kickshaw, with cheesy & zesty nibbles.


     Order a perfectly piquant pizza from Sac's charcoal-oven.


     Sanfords is open 24 hours with a luxe atmosphere and a diner menu.  Lewis and I love their fried calamari aribiatta.  It's a shame that their unsupervised service is irresponsibly slow.










     To keep Broadway "well rounded", there are small businesses, such as an old-fashioned shoe cobbler.


     One of the most famous eateries on Broadway is Strand Smokehouse.  Meat-eaters and moonshine drinkers keep the place hopping all night!  







     If you desire Colombian food, try Tierras for value-packed delicousness. 


      At the intersection of Broadway and 21st Street is the Bel Aire Diner.  Stereotypically, it is owned by a Greek family.  Recently, it was on the News for discontinuing Styrofoam cartons and cups before NYC's law mandated it.










     Aside from generous portions, friendly service, and a wide variety of customers, they serve great value.  Thursday nights feature a special deal: soup, salad, appetizer, entrée, glass of wine, slice of cake (or Linzer Torte cookie), and cup of coffee... ALL for $25-28!  Seen below is a shrimp scampi and a grilled pork chop.  Their moussaka is amazing, too!


Late-night partygoers and breakfast-seekers love that they are open 24-hours per day.

     21st Street was formerly Van Alst Avenue.  It was named after Joris Stevenson Van Alst, a Dutchman who emigrated to The New World in the 1650s.  His descendants repelled Englishmen during the American Revolution, and John Van Alst was a local school commissioner in the 1800s.  Further north on 21st Street, Astoria's Public School #171 is named for Peter Van Alst, as is its adjacent playground.



     Walking west, Broadway terminates at Socrates Sculpture Park.  We'll go there next, in Part 2!  Please use this link...
http://halfwindsorfullthrottle.blogspot.com/2015/06/walking-tour-astorias-streets-food.html

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