After a breakfast of fresh bread and squeezable butter, we zipped along the expressway for 127 kilometers to the big city of Kyoto. (It was the capital of Japan before Tokyo). I must praise how the Japanese expressways are free of accidents, rubber-necking, bad driving, and traffic jams. We used highways and expressways to 4 cities, on weekdays and weekends... with the same delightful result!
Drivers are courteous and law-abiding. Shirlyn, who learned to drive in aggressive Singapore, said that sometimes she gets impatient when Japanese drivers make way for another car to merge. Ha ha!
Pausing at another immaculate Highway Stop, we ate a full meal. We admired that they provided hand sanitizers at the entrances.
That pitstop was also handsomely-laid out, with fresh food all around.
Freshly-ground coffee machines automatically add your choice of milks! Seen below, a clear door protects the countertop—and you—from splitters/droplets (which most coffee machines cause and ignore).
Even the seating area was spacious and CLEAN, with trees on the tables. A food-seleciton-ordering machine stood ready to help foreign customers select pictures of what they want (since they can't read the menu), and the food counter prepares the order for pick-up! So convenient and helpful!
Refueled with nutrition and good vibes, we drove into the Kyoto Prefecture.
As seen on the map below, it consists of 26 municipalities. Our destination was its capital: Kyoto City.
The prefecture stretches north to the Sea of Japan. The region is famous for technology industries, fishing, sake distilleries, green tea plantations, and the Queen Elizabeth II Cup: a horse-racing trophy awarded at Kyoto Racecourse. The Japanese modeled their ancient capital of Kyoto after Chang'an, which was the ancient capital of China. Now, Chang'an is named Xi'an. *To see when we visited it, please use this link:
Arriving in Kyoto (this is its coat of arms)...
...Shirlyn told us it was the imperial capital from 794 until the emperor relocated to Tokyo in 1869. That is where/when the kuge (aristocracy) developed. The lineage of Japanese emperors is traced from the "age of the gods" in 660 B.C. through an "eternal line unbroken by time". Japan has the oldest hereditary monarchy in the world, and its monarchial house has the longest continual use. The anthem for the emperor is the national anthem of Japan. The Emperor grants Royal Assent to formalize laws, appoints the Prime Minister, convenes the Parliament, hosts State Visits of foreign dignitaries, and makes official overseas visits. Citizens love their imperial family.
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The city has a branch office of the Imperial Household Agency.
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Its historic walled palace is a royal property used for Enthronements, and the Emperor and Empress visit the mausoleums of past emperors to pay homage. His Imperial Majesty ascended the Chrysanthemum Throne upon the death of his father in 1989. The throne room looks like this...
When the Emperor makes an edict, people refer to it coming from "the Chrysanthemum Throne", just as people refer to royal remarks coming from the British Crown or Buckingham Palace.
*To see our visit inside Buckingham Palace, please use this link:
Months ago, the Emperor announced his royal decree to abdicate/retire and allow the Crown Prince to replace him. Such a royal proclamation stirred the government because prior monarchs reigned until death.
Seen below, the palatial complex is beautiful, but we did not visit it: we had a full day planned.
If you do, you'll admire the spiffy Imperial Guards who patrol it.
If you do, you'll admire the spiffy Imperial Guards who patrol it.
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The National Seal of Japan is the Imperial Seal, which features a chrysanthemum. It has been used since 1183!
Kyoto is a hub for the creation of video games, and Nintendo is headquartered there.
Each July, the city hosts Japan's most popular matsuri, which is named Gion: a 3-day event for wellbeing. Each district of the city maintains its own centuries-old "float" that his pulled/pushed through the streets, culminating in a night feast. They look like this...
We made our way to the old part of town—through the frustratingly small streets, clustered with one-lane traffic, buses and many bicyclists.
We arrived at Fushimi Inari Taisha Shrine. Many of the city's shrines constitute a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but this is not on the list. Yet, it's a national treasure. In 711 AD, it was built atop Mt. Inari (764 ft above sea level), and it is famous for thousands of orange Gates. You pass through the historic gates as you ascend 233 meters. The original main building burned down during a war in 1467, but was rebuilt in 1499. It honors the kami of prosperity named Inari, who oversees fertility, rice, tea, agriculture, and industry.
*To see my many adventures as a Boy Scout, please use this link:
I was fascinated by how many locals and international tourists rented kimono costumes to wear, as they toured these areas. It would be like renting a cowboy outfit to walk around/dine in Texas. Or a Beefeater guard uniform to stroll through London. But here, it's perfectly natural.
The next morning, a cool breeze entered our window and we heard the rushing river outside. It was refreshing. Lewis and I love being so close to beautiful waterways like that. Awaking before Shirlyn, we took a quick stroll for vigor.
Exiting our inn, we crossed the Yusai-bashi Bridge and noticed a public prayer shrine called Nasuari Jizo Bosatsu. It commemorates the presence of the Jizō bodhisattva who oversees the water. As one of Japan's most-beloved deities, Jizō is a protector and eases human suffering, as souls travel through karmic rebirths. During construction on the riverbed in 1954, the centuries-old statue was unearthed. According to folklore, the expression "No matter how hard it is, you'll be rewarded if you hold on and persevere" pertains to the salvation of that statue. Once again, the deity is paid respect and bestows blessings.
Weeks before our arrival, the third-most popular matsuri occurred: Jidai, a parade of historical costumes from all eras. Being an intellectual center of Japan, Kyoto was almost considered as a bomb site by WWII-era Americans. Thankfully, it was spared.
We made our way to the old part of town—through the frustratingly small streets, clustered with one-lane traffic, buses and many bicyclists.
We arrived at Fushimi Inari Taisha Shrine. Many of the city's shrines constitute a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but this is not on the list. Yet, it's a national treasure. In 711 AD, it was built atop Mt. Inari (764 ft above sea level), and it is famous for thousands of orange Gates. You pass through the historic gates as you ascend 233 meters. The original main building burned down during a war in 1467, but was rebuilt in 1499. It honors the kami of prosperity named Inari, who oversees fertility, rice, tea, agriculture, and industry.
The site is revered by Buddhists in Japan and especially by businesses. It hosts two annual celebrations: First Horse Day in February, and Fire-Burning on November 8 (which we just missed).
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Looking at this gent, we can tell that he's stylishly ready to "explore"!
And so were we, so off we went! Up and up.
Lewis' outfit blends in with the columns! :-) Occasionally, the gates gave way to clusters of shrines for worship. If you notice a depiction of a fox, that is because Inari uses foxes as its messengers. Statues are often dressed in red clothing because that color repels evil (like the Jewish "Power of the Red String").
The incline gradient reminded me of Cadillac Mountain on Mount Dessert Island in Maine.
Eventually, we tired of the climb, realized that we wanted to spend the remaining daylight doing other things, and descended to the Gift Shop. The view was still great.
This sacred peaceful place was where we bought most of our souvenir gifts for our friends back home. Attesting to the good energy, the shop cashier bagged our purchases, then rubbed two pieces of flint stones together—sending sparks over our purchases. It is the custom of Kiribi. It's for good fortune and protection (drive away bad luck). From the beliefs of 8th-century Zoroastrianism—which was assimilated into Buddhism—sparks are used to purify. The suit/tie shopkeeper did it as a matter of course, not dramatics. He did it peacefully for everyone.
Lewis and I observed Boy Scouts of Japan learning eagerly about the historic site.
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Looking at this gent, we can tell that he's stylishly ready to "explore"!
And so were we, so off we went! Up and up.
Lewis' outfit blends in with the columns! :-) Occasionally, the gates gave way to clusters of shrines for worship. If you notice a depiction of a fox, that is because Inari uses foxes as its messengers. Statues are often dressed in red clothing because that color repels evil (like the Jewish "Power of the Red String").
The incline gradient reminded me of Cadillac Mountain on Mount Dessert Island in Maine.
Eventually, we tired of the climb, realized that we wanted to spend the remaining daylight doing other things, and descended to the Gift Shop. The view was still great.
This sacred peaceful place was where we bought most of our souvenir gifts for our friends back home. Attesting to the good energy, the shop cashier bagged our purchases, then rubbed two pieces of flint stones together—sending sparks over our purchases. It is the custom of Kiribi. It's for good fortune and protection (drive away bad luck). From the beliefs of 8th-century Zoroastrianism—which was assimilated into Buddhism—sparks are used to purify. The suit/tie shopkeeper did it as a matter of course, not dramatics. He did it peacefully for everyone.
Lewis and I observed Boy Scouts of Japan learning eagerly about the historic site.
Kyoto was one of the first Japanese cities to have Boy Scouts. During the 1915 inauguration of the Taisho Emperor, BS troops existed in four places: Kyoto, Tokyo, Hokkaido, and Shizuoka. The program became coeducation in the 1970s--40 years earlier than in America (which pretends to be a land of equality).
*To see my many adventures as a Boy Scout, please use this link:
Schools brought their students to the site, too. We noticed that many children wore school uniforms. Japan's society uses them because they are equalizing. We agree with that tactic, instead of having "brand-name competitions" of outfits. (Lewis wore one during his earliest years of schooling, and I attended a prep school with a dress code).
We also had reasons to admire the leggy rickshaw-pulling boys. Maybe they were dancers, trying to earn money while keeping in shape? But certainly some athletic appeal on the city streets.
Notice their split-toe footwear, called jika-tabi. Originating centuries ago in Japan, they provide greater flexibility and grip. The rest of their uniforms varied, but we saw one guy getting attired in a traditional (and revealing) outfit! We predicted that he will get many gratuities.
We also had reasons to admire the leggy rickshaw-pulling boys. Maybe they were dancers, trying to earn money while keeping in shape? But certainly some athletic appeal on the city streets.
Notice their split-toe footwear, called jika-tabi. Originating centuries ago in Japan, they provide greater flexibility and grip. The rest of their uniforms varied, but we saw one guy getting attired in a traditional (and revealing) outfit! We predicted that he will get many gratuities.
Being so active compensates for the city's plethora of sweet shops. When you're in Kyoto, be sure to try delicacies from four historic ones. Ichimonjiya Wasuke was founded in 1000 AD. In its 14th generation of family ownership, Uemura Yoshitsugu opened in 1657. Since the early 1600s, Kameya Iori uses the same recipes and techniques through 18 generations. Seen below, our favorite was Douki Kawabata, founded by a samurai of that name in 1503, during the Muromachi Period.
Everything was scrumptious—especially the chimaki: red bean paste wrapped/steamed in bamboo leaves. Its excellence won patronage from centuries of emperors—even recently including His Imperial Majesty, Tsugunomiya Akihito. Long ago, the Imperial Household conferred a Royal Warrant on the business. Royal Warrants were awarded to "producers of excellence" in various fields—so exceptional that they are chosen to supply the royal household. Proprietors dream of such lofty recognition!
Our next stop was another holy place, Tofukuji, with timber structures from the 1700s. It is renown for its curvy Japanese Garden paths—which recently provided autumnal colors.
The double-gabled wooden temple is quite large!
The complex has Japan's largest and oldest meditation room, built in 1898. Meditating in the gardens is easy, too.
We admired the covered walkways and loggias, fitted with ornate woodcarving.
The raked sand looks as perfect as tiles of a floor.
With perfect timing, Shirlyn hurried us to the Kodai-Ji Temple of Zen Buddhism, so we could savor it at sunset. We drove through narrow old streets.
Taking our shoes off to walk through the temple, we spotted children enjoying the serenity, snuggled under flannel blankets on the veranda. They cozily admired the sand gardens.
Everything was scrumptious—especially the chimaki: red bean paste wrapped/steamed in bamboo leaves. Its excellence won patronage from centuries of emperors—even recently including His Imperial Majesty, Tsugunomiya Akihito. Long ago, the Imperial Household conferred a Royal Warrant on the business. Royal Warrants were awarded to "producers of excellence" in various fields—so exceptional that they are chosen to supply the royal household. Proprietors dream of such lofty recognition!
*After winning WII, America forced Japan to abolish its warrant system, but previously-awarded businesses were allowed to retain theirs. (It also forced the nation to change its name from the "Empire of Japan" to "Japan", and it abolished the nobility. Over 900 Japanese ennobled merchants and aristocrats—some descended from ruling samurai—lost their titles of marquis, count, and baron).
While on the topic of sweets, let me inform you that fortune cookies originated in Kyoto, in the 1850s. Despite what America created (like the non-Chinese mishmash concoction of Chop Suey or General Tso's Chicken), they are not Chinese and have nothing to do with Chinese culture. In 2014, Lewis and I travelled across 2,700 km of China and never saw them. Read about that here:
Meanwhile, Japanese Shinto shrines still use strips of paper called o-mikuji to predict a person's fortune, and a person randomly chooses one from a box. Unlike the sweet version found in America, the Japanese version involves a savory cookie with the "fortune" paper wedged in its curve. Such cookies are called tsujiura senbei. They were sold at the Fushimi Inari Taisha Shrine that we visited.
Japanese immigrants brought them to California at the turn-of-the-century. After America racistly and illegally imprisoned Japanese immigrants and citizens during WWII, Americans still wanted fortune cookies. They urged Chinese restaurants to make them, and the Japanese cookie industry was assumed by Chinese immigrants in California. In typical American style, the treats were perverted into nothingness and are still ignorantly applied to China. Americans still expect fortune cookies from basic Chinese restaurants, uncaring that it's the wrong culture. (Chinese restaurants in other countries don't make them).
Our next stop was another holy place, Tofukuji, with timber structures from the 1700s. It is renown for its curvy Japanese Garden paths—which recently provided autumnal colors.
The double-gabled wooden temple is quite large!
The complex has Japan's largest and oldest meditation room, built in 1898. Meditating in the gardens is easy, too.
The raked sand looks as perfect as tiles of a floor.
With perfect timing, Shirlyn hurried us to the Kodai-Ji Temple of Zen Buddhism, so we could savor it at sunset. We drove through narrow old streets.
Taking our shoes off to walk through the temple, we spotted children enjoying the serenity, snuggled under flannel blankets on the veranda. They cozily admired the sand gardens.
The styled sand was evocative of the Japanese aesthetic wabi-sabi: transience and impermanence.
In 1606, the temple was founded by the widow of samurai Toyotomi Hideyoshi. He was Japan's "second great unifier". The Karesansui garden was amazingly beautiful: equal parts natural and sculpted.
I was fascinated by how many locals and international tourists rented kimono costumes to wear, as they toured these areas. It would be like renting a cowboy outfit to walk around/dine in Texas. Or a Beefeater guard uniform to stroll through London. But here, it's perfectly natural.
Being a couple of curious explorers, we led Shirlyn up a hillside to see where the steps led.
Our reward was appreciating the serene view during twilight.
Twilight progressed to dusk, and we descended through the bamboo forest—which gave it a perfectly spooky milieu.
Below, the bell was rung by swinging the wooden pole at it.
At nightfall, we drove through the city.
We arrived at our hotel: an authentic ryokan (inn) named Gion Shinmonso.
Our reward was appreciating the serene view during twilight.
Twilight progressed to dusk, and we descended through the bamboo forest—which gave it a perfectly spooky milieu.
Below, the bell was rung by swinging the wooden pole at it.
At nightfall, we drove through the city.
It is on a street named Hanamikoji-dori in the Gion district. Perfectly located in the heart of the city, the ryokan sat against the Shirakawa River (White River) and was amidst romantically cozy alleys and restaurants.
Since the 700s, ryokans are furnished with tatami-matted guest rooms (with modern lavatories), communal bathhouses called ofuro (separated by gender), and they include ceremonious in-room dining. Like a Bed & Breakfast, they also provide the first meal of the day, as part of your overnight price.
Seen below is the hotel's front desk... and colorful outfits worn by the staff and customers!
We were given Japanese outfits: cotton kimonos called yukata.
Our accommodations included an 8-course dinner, via Room Service and presented course-by-course. Our nakai (server at a ryokan) was a proud 80-year old woman, limber as she knelt to serve each segment of our meal. She looked excellent for her age. We noticed that a lot in Japan. Clearly, the style of living promotes wellbeing and longevity. Our nakai worked "for fun" and not for necessity (as in America due to its costs); many of her friends keep busy with gardening, tutoring, volunteering, or civic duties. She was a sweet lady.
After dinner, we strolled the area's cobblestone streets and riverside sights. (That is our inn, seen below).
We were given Japanese outfits: cotton kimonos called yukata.
Our accommodations included an 8-course dinner, via Room Service and presented course-by-course. Our nakai (server at a ryokan) was a proud 80-year old woman, limber as she knelt to serve each segment of our meal. She looked excellent for her age. We noticed that a lot in Japan. Clearly, the style of living promotes wellbeing and longevity. Our nakai worked "for fun" and not for necessity (as in America due to its costs); many of her friends keep busy with gardening, tutoring, volunteering, or civic duties. She was a sweet lady.
Unlike plates that are all the same, many Japanese eateries uses a variety. To signify how specially-crafted each item is, they are served in different shaped dishes, e.g.: round, square, scalloped, footed, and octagonal.
After dinner, we strolled the area's cobblestone streets and riverside sights. (That is our inn, seen below).
The Gion district was formed in the Sengoku period (1400s) and became Japan's most-famous geisha ("professional artist") district. It still is. Many geisha (called geiko in Kyoto) traipsed through the evening air to their appointments. Their kimonos reflected the lamplight, and their geta clacked softly on the cobbled alleys. They are paid for their expertise in song, dance, "performances", and the art of conversation.
The surroundings retain a feudal-era ambiance: wooden merchant houses, quaint restaurants (with subdued signage), teahouses, red lanterns, and pedestrian bridges over the water. We loved crossing the cozy bridges and exploring the winding alleys! It was safe and clean. Below is Gion Shin Bridge.
*In the picture above, you notice a half-length curtain in the doorway. Called a noren, such things are commonplace at Japanese establishments. The vertical slits allow entry/egress, and they are used to advertise the name of the place, while keeping wind and dust out.
Restaurants, sashimi counters, matcha dessert shops, and sake bars were bustling with customers.
Accentuating how clean, thoughtful, and convenient Japan is, we noticed a public lavatory/urinal near our inn. It was great to see such infrastructure, and it was clearly a newly-built one.
We popped into a cozy izakaya and sipped sake and sweet-potato vodka. The word izakaya means a place where you can chat/drink/eat. This place was more like a pub, and its stereo played upbeat jazz music.
On the street, Lewis found a magazine rack full of "female escort menus"! (Of no interest to us, ha ha!) Gion is also the city's Red Light District. Apparently, massage parlors, "pink salons", and health spas circumvent anti-prostitution laws by offering non-penetrative, oral, or role-play techniques. By serving food, allowing a "getting to know you" period beforehand, and avoiding private rooms, they are not technically brothels. Other "companions" make a connection with clients at those establishments and go elsewhere to consummate any agreed-upon arrangements... thus absolving their employers of complicity.
Gay folks have options, too. Throughout nearly all of its long history, Japan was openminded to homosexuality. Anal sex was only banned for 8 years in 1872, due to Western influences, but Japan legalized it again. Shintoism has no moral bias against it. Centered on "inclusive respect", Shintoism regards "sex" as a natural thing to be enjoyed with few inhibitions. "Pink salons" provide same-sex playmates and male masseuses for men.
Gay folks have options, too. Throughout nearly all of its long history, Japan was openminded to homosexuality. Anal sex was only banned for 8 years in 1872, due to Western influences, but Japan legalized it again. Shintoism has no moral bias against it. Centered on "inclusive respect", Shintoism regards "sex" as a natural thing to be enjoyed with few inhibitions. "Pink salons" provide same-sex playmates and male masseuses for men.
In-room stripping (at your hotel) and role-play are popular.
For closeted or discreet Japanese men, there are sex clubs where visitors wear colored bracelets (illuminating in the dark) to indicate their sexual preferences.
Sex shops are not hidden, as they are in the USA, and they are vastly cleaner.
Yes, the classic city is well-rounded.
Before bedtime, two attendants at the hotel reset our room with pillows and mattresses on the tatami mat floor. A sound sleep on firm pillows.
Oyasumi. Yoi yume wo.
The next morning, a cool breeze entered our window and we heard the rushing river outside. It was refreshing. Lewis and I love being so close to beautiful waterways like that. Awaking before Shirlyn, we took a quick stroll for vigor.
Exiting our inn, we crossed the Yusai-bashi Bridge and noticed a public prayer shrine called Nasuari Jizo Bosatsu. It commemorates the presence of the Jizō bodhisattva who oversees the water. As one of Japan's most-beloved deities, Jizō is a protector and eases human suffering, as souls travel through karmic rebirths. During construction on the riverbed in 1954, the centuries-old statue was unearthed. According to folklore, the expression "No matter how hard it is, you'll be rewarded if you hold on and persevere" pertains to the salvation of that statue. Once again, the deity is paid respect and bestows blessings.
Lewis was also pleased to see another perfectly-hygienic phone booth. (Small details excite you when you rarely see such decency at home).
Speaking of cleanliness, I was curious about the ryokan's nude "Baths". [In the countryside, inns use hot springs—called onsen]. The indoor facility is complimentary and separated for men and women. As the expression goes, "If you are a prude, you won't want to go nude". Shoe storage and an undressing area precedes the steamy baths. Washing areas along the wall are used before immersing in the baths. A sauna is adjacent.
Also included in our Room Fee was a breakfast on our level's dining room. We previously reserved 8 o'clock with the Front Desk. A traditional Japanese breakfast is savory, which we enjoy. It was yummy! Each of us got two coal-burners to grill pieces of mackerel and heat a bowl of veggie broth. Tea was divine. Our handsome server was efficient. The "folded eggs" were splendid.
We began our full day in a happy way! Onward to Osaka!
Obviously, I could not take photographs in the water, but it resembled something like this...
We began our full day in a happy way! Onward to Osaka!
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