On a splendid June evening, Lewis and I took our restaurant-exploring friend, Doshka (above), to Maialino for a sturdy Roman dinner. That place always reminds Lewis and I of our explorations of Italy's Lazio region.
To see our exploration of Rome, please click this link:
Opened in 1996, the restaurant is rustic yet refined. Situated in the corner of the 5-star Gramercy Park Hotel, Danny Meyer's eatery is a gem of Manhattan. Thus, it has a grand entrance for superior experiences!
(Befitting the "stage", Lewis wore summer spectator shoes)
The farm-to-table restaurant is as reliable as Big Ben chiming the hours in London... 99% of the time. Unfortunately, this time fell "through the cracks" into the other 1%.
As a "foodie", Doshka was a first-timer to the Union Square Hospitality Group, so she didn't know that Meyer literally "wrote the book" on hospitality.
Every New Yorker knows of Danny Meyer's recent plight: the rent skyrocketed higher on his Union Square Cafe from an unappreciative landlord-heir who doesn't care about Meyer's contributions. In 1985, Meyer invested in that area when none of the local landlords cared to. Meyer's business and his creation of the greenmarket at Union Square Park allow landlords to charge higher rents for a "gentrified" neighborhood. Yet, without gratitude, Meyer's landlord-heir forced him out. Notoriously, he thanked Meyer for doing all the work to improve the area, but the man greedily wants more. (Those uncaring landlords sent a bad message to any would-be improvers; nobody will help them in the future).
Betrayed and heartbroken, Meyer found a new home for USC. But, it won't be the same lovingly-created interior of the old one.
I read a recent article that Meyer took his culinary and design team to re-explore the Italian Peninsula... to refresh himself and immerse himself in the ambiance that first inspired his career in hospitality. That's correct; Meyer didn't find hospitality--as it should be done--anywhere in the vastness of America. He found it in Europe. In Italy, he discovered unrivaled ingredients and proper techniques for farm-to-table cooking. He learned that what separates a great restaurant from a forgettable one is the service and cuisine. He was a pioneer to spread those values in his ignorant homeland of the USA.
Doshka arrived from a medical procedure--bandages and all--and we intended for her to have a sublime experience. We began at the bar, because in a place like this, it gives you a separate perspective/vibe. I sipped a Negroni.
But our experience lacked. The bartender gave me water but neglected to give her a glass--for 30 minutes! We ordered 3 appetizers but never got bread... like other guests did all along the bar. 3 bar staff were on duty, during a mildly-busy Monday evening, so it made them seem unobservant and thoughtless.
Thank goodness for superb consistency in the kitchen; all of our "small bites" were delicious. Clockwise from top, ordered fried Sweetbreads, Tripe, and roasted Pork with Potatoes. I love sweetbreads and tripe! Each are inspired by classic recipes from Rome.
The barbecued Pork Ribs were heavenly!
Next, when being escorted to our Dining Room table, the hostess (who had a tray) neglected to carry our drinks. We brought them. Halfway there, she suddenly realized this and finally made use of her tray. Megan was our lovely server, but the team lacked synergy... at least for our table.
Our individual plates never arrived before our shared courses did. At a fine restaurant, someone is supposed to "mark" the table to be sure clean utensils and PLATES are there. The dining management team ought to oversee such things; it's why they work in the dining room.
Chicken mousse is one of their best appetizers.
Smooth.
Doshka loved their summer Pea salad with expertly-shaved artisanal cheese.
Speaking of cheese, when our $22 cheese course was served,
... the cheeses weren't identified to us (and the food-runner briskly departed), so we didn't know which was which. We selected Weinkase Lagrein, Invierno (from Vermont), and Ricotta Scorza Nera (a firm version). I liked 2 of 3, but I'll never know which was which.
Rarely did we get water refills. That's just unprofessional. Our table was not crumbed. We got a wine list, but nobody asked if we wanted to order from it, so we left it, rather than try again. Eventually, someone took it away... but left our dirty dishes that we were finished with. I'm unsure why they didn't remove our dirty plates after brining new food. It's a simple procedure for any restaurant employee, so it's on the verge of rudeness to ignore it.
Our "pasta course" arrived. We shared the chef's signature Malfatti with braised Suckling Pig and Arugula, and shared Lewis' choice of Tagliolini with Squid Ink, Crab, Calabrese Chili and Basil.
We actually began eating our main courses, with a pile of 6 small plates on the corner of our table (as staff sauntered back-and-forth near us). That is not the Danny Meyer way, and I was feeling betrayed by their unprofessionalism (that I paid extra to supposedly have). The great food was the only thing keeping Doshka happy: dry-aged Duck breast with Farro and Cherries; Roast Pork collar with charred veggies.
Vincent, the dining room manager, hovered repeatedly at neighboring tables, but didn't bother to check on us. He literally passed us and overlooked us. Finally, I watched him clear dishes from the next table and demanded his attention.
Calmly but directly, I said, "If you know how to clear a table, why have our dirty dishes--from two courses--remained here for 20 minutes? Why haven't we gotten water or fresh utensils? You've passed us many times without assisting, and I expect a better experience for the remainder of our night." Vincent stared blankly and apologized.
Yes, he folded our napkins, cleared our table, made sure it finally got crumbed before dessert (Tiramisu and Lemon curd tart with Pignoli nuts)...
and gave us his card. Yet, he failed to offer a NYC gesture: at least waive the coffee (which was a $9 French-press of Guatemalan Sipacapa).
Lewis felt that he could've offered a complimentary digestif, as apology. We paid the entire bill. I wasn't sure that Doshka (who knew trumpeter, Brian Newman, performing the hotel, seen below)
wanted a second visit. Unconvinced of "superior service", she also wasn't sure about joining us at our other favorite USHG spot: The Modern.
The food was excellent, but the experience of service should've been so much better, considering Maialino's resources and self-touted fame. Lewis wrote a withering review on Yelp, giving 2 out of 5 stars. Finally, THAT caught a caring man's attention, who wanted to "make things right".
Let's go to Part 2!
My only comment: That cheese plate looked pathetic. The presentation looked like an amateur or a 10 year old presenting the dish: one slice of each using a regular knife and thrown on a basic plate. What happened to the clean multiple cuts? Where's the cheese board? Where are the diverse toppings to pair with? Even your home cheese board is more impressive.
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