Saturday, May 4, 2019

Restaurant Review : Kinship Coffee


     Recently, I saw Kinship Coffee cups being carried in my part of Astoria.  They came from Kinship's newest location--smartly beside the N/W (yellow line) subway station on Broadway.  It's a great location.  When a liquor shop chose Broadway, the owner told me that he checked each subway stop along the elevated route in Astoria, and he determined that the most people got on/off at Broadway.  
     Kinship's first coffeeshop is on Steinway Street & 30th Ave (an avenue of eateries and outdoor seating).  



But they use Stumpton Coffee Roasters, which makes an "okay" cup.  Their second opening further south on Steinway, just steps from the subway stop for R, E, and M trains.  Much larger, it's also "laptop-oriented", darker, and lacks courteous employees.  The last time I was there, the counter person looked like I was disturbing his daydream by placing an order.  When I left, he didn't even say Thanks or Bye.
I refuse to buy a "pick-me-up" at a place where employees look bored.




The new place took over a storefront that looked like this...


... removed the awning and installed floor-to-ceiling windows--which open--to make the shop bright and airy.  Thanks to their trendy chandeliers, the big windows also announce the shop like an exclamation point!


     It's the same building that the owners lived in when they first moved to Astoria, in 2009.  It looks like they decorated it from an H&M Home store in Europe!  Notice the lovely bronze counter trim, above eye-catching woodwork.




Unfortunately, their homemade baked goods lack consistency.  On that note, the delicious frosted carrot bread (seen below) was quickly removed off the menu.  Despite many people asking for it, a barista told me that "it was too difficult for them to keep making."


The barista, Nick, explained all breads and muffins are baked in-house on Steinway Street, but croissants are bought from a local baker.  Centerstage is a Slayer espresso machine: sleek, efficient, and endlessly powerful.  Like the one at nearby Balancero Coffee, I love its wooden actuator handles and knobs: a classy touch.  The three-valve machine is $25,000.00  


(more pix of that type of machine)



     The first of its kind in New York, Kinship installed a robotic Pourover Machine.  I admired its silent speed.  Seen below, the small spout pours water in a circular wave over the coffee grinds.  It pauses, while the water filters down, then it pours more.  If multiple cups are programmed for brewing, the spout zips back-and-forth over each one, giving water like a gardener's watering can.


The biggest problem with it is that pour-over coffee requests dwindled--after their surge, a few years ago--and the machine takes up too much valuable space in the small shop.  I doubt that anyone will come in just to watch it, and I hardly see anyone order pour-over coffee.  They should've placed it further back, and used that front-facing counter for seating or selling more baked goods.  

Speaking of poorly-used space, the entire shop lacks seating.  They wasted so much floorspace.  There is nowhere to sit, other than five folding chairs (like a laundromat uses).  The lovely windows only allow two people to sit at them--because of the small-sized counter at the windowsill.  If you want to comfy seating in a cozy space, go to Balancero, instead.



Another issue has been the "revolving door" of baristas.  They can't seem to retain employees... and eventually settled on one geeky guy who clearly knows coffee but is lackluster.  (he used to work elsewhere in Astoria and was equally depressing).  


They sell fruit juices, salads, and yogurt, but their menu is still under development.

The stone/wood "condiment counter" is sleek, and an employee (but customer-facing) sink is appropriately handsome, since it's part of the scenery.




     My pricey $4.75 latte had pleasant foam art and came in a colorful cup/saucer... but no spoon.  Instead, they have wooden stirrers.  The coffee is supplied by Heart, which sources "green coffee" from Africa and Central & South America.  (Their website's videos have the cleverest soundtracks).  However, a few of the roasts were too acidic.


The barista ground my portion of beans in a Mahlkönig EK43, one of the best manufacturers of coffee grinders.  The $2,700 gadget purred aromatically.  


     Wafting the scent upon the sidewalk, the morning breeze circulated through the open windows. 

     During my visit, I observed that the customers who chose to come in had an attitude of unhurried complacency.  Young women ambling to the market.  Two guys walking back from the gym.  A girl questioning their vegan options.  An older woman loving the flavor of oat milk.  A trio of loud "young professionals" going to the office.  A daddy pushing a stroller.  It was a shame that the uncaring staff avoided the customers' attempts at small-talk and lacked cheerfulness.  If the owners did things better, their Yelp reviews might improve.



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