Many people visit Manhattan and fall prey to the redundantly typical sightseeing plan: Ground Zero, Wall Street, South Street Seaport, Empire State Building, Statue of Liberty, United Nations, Rockefeller Center, the Intrepid Museum, and (still dirty) Times Square. Yuck to all that mindless wandering. Look at that stuff online.
Think about it... none of those places are where real NYers congregate. In fact, none of those places are cultural. Ground Zero consists of holes in the ground (and soon some luxury retail shopping). The UN, the Rock, and the Empire State are just office buildings (more attractive on the outside than on the inside). Tourists lose most of their day to reach Liberty Island. The aforementioned museums shed very little light on NYC life. Times Square is just a bunch of blinking billboards, amidst congested throngs of unmovable people.
Skip them. It's like wasting your tourism time in London exploring the attic of Parliament. Instead, go where the local people go: taste, smell, mingle, sing along, and laugh amongst the locals. You'll avoid needless marked-up "tourist prices", and you'll enjoy better scenery and cuisine.
You may recall Lewis and I sojourning to chilly Chicago. During our trip, my former roommate (from a time that seems like a separate life), Ron, took a day off from work to show us around. Born in Tennessee (and speaking with a drawl), he lived in Chicago for many years. During a stint, he dwelled in NYC in my 2-bedroom apartment. Being "chewed up and spit out" by NYC, he returned to Chicago... and his successes resumed. He is a single (hopefully not forever) gay gentleman, who is currently working with his local Chamber of Commerce to create LGBT events. (Next year, he'll have his own float in their Pride Parade). This blog entry is about his recent visit to NYC, and how I helped make it immensely special.
As I said, during a less prosperous time in his life, Ron lived in a borough of NYC. Fraught with floundering jobs and tight finances, he did not have many good experiences. With his life much better again, he wanted to revisit NYC and enjoy its flavors and energy. He also wanted to see my trendy-yet-cozy neighborhood of Astoria. I was happy to oblige for both!
Arriving Saturday afternoon, Ron adored Astoria! He loved the multiplicity of cozy shops and eateries. Each of a dozen bakeries identifies with a different target-audience. Some focus on bread or pastry or homemade doughnuts; some are Turkish or Italian or Greek or French or Polish. The eateries are affordable but don't scrimp on creative interior designs--making them delectable to the eye and the palate. Ron appreciated the readily-available sources of fresh produce, all in tidy rows and bushels. He admired the pre-war architecture, juxtaposed with sleekly modern apartment houses.
He was especially impressed with Socrates Sculpture Park (and Greg at XXX Coffee who pedals a bike-cart from Brooklyn). When people want to see Astoria, I always bring them to one of its three parks.
Ron was wowed by the showcases of artisanal cheese and charcuterie at Beir & Cheese, and their jars of Duck Fat and Pickled String beans.
Further down Broadway, we slurped oysters at NY Oyster Bar, where he showed pictures from his recent trip New Orleans to Diago and Chris.
For Sunday brunch, Ron saw a lot of online promotion about a restaurant named "Jane" and wanted to try it. It's in an area named the West Village, within downtown Manhattan.
Arriving at West Houston Street before me, he was told that the restaurant was "behind schedule". The owner told Ron that our table would be ready in 30 minutes. 20 people were already waiting in line ahead of us for their reservations! (Accustomed to badly-run restaurants, I would recognize that situation as a lie by the owners and unlikely that 20 people would be seated within 30 minutes before us). Ron pretended not to mind the wait because he believed that it was "cool" to eat there (I have no idea of his sources). When I arrived, a waitress emerged and gave 3 beignets to a group of young women at the front of the line. (It was a low-cost inducement to make them wait in line longer... and waste more time of their morning). A man got curious about their preferential treatment and inquired with them. The girls said that they already waited an hour, so "Jane" was enticing them to stay in line.
It's always unbelievable to me that people sacrifice their free time, during their day off, to wait in lines. Especially when they don't have to. Sometimes, that line is "manufactured", like at Abercrombie & Fitch stores or Gucci outlets.
Another young man darted inside to check the status of his wait-time, and Ron followed "on his heels". Being told to wait another half hour, Ron looked glum. I immediately assured him that we'd find another place for brunch. So, we left that mess and strolled uptown.
People gave me an astonished look, but remained glued to the sidewalk (convinced by online ads and social media that Jane was worth waiting an hour for). The restaurant hostess didn't care. We headed off for better cuisine. Turning the corner at Bleecker Street (named for an affluent colonial-era Dutch family), we enjoyed the warm October sunshine and passed a splashing fountain.
Walking past the aromas from Rocco's Bakery and Amy's Bread, we left their street of trendy shops and turned onto cozy Cornelia Street, heading to homey deliciousness at "Home". It is a restaurant that serves farm-to-table food. The small courtyard was full of munching guests, but Ron preferred to sit inside.
The handsome server and a young bartender were cheerful, quick and courteous. Sunlight streamed through the antique windows, glinted off the tin ceiling and the bottles of small-batch ryes. Sunshine made the small bouquets of wildflowers look pretty on each table.
Less expensive than "Jane", an $18 prix-fixe got me a Mason-jar full of probiotic yogurt, granola, fresh fruit, chopped nuts, dates, raisins and honey, then a stack of 3 fluffy ricotta pancakes (topped with fig jam, hazelnuts, and real maple syrup)... accompanied by 3 poached eggs and house-made sausages. Ron got an avocado/veggie salad and a portion of smoked salmon Eggs Benedict. He was amazed with the flavor of their homemade Hollandaise sauce. $10 each got us unlimited drinks! 3 glasses of white sangria were perfect for me, and Ron savored the pulpy freshly-squeezed orange juice in his mimosas. Within the West Village area, that is a great cost for brunch, and it's better quality and nicer service than Jane provides.
I was pleasantly full, but wanted to show Ron the newly-enhanced interior of Murray's Cheese Shop. The proprietors added a back room that is chuck-full of condiments, honey, sauces, dairy-fresh milk/cream, small-batch ice cream, and an olive bar.
I got Ron a few samples of amazing bleu cheese, Montgomery Cheddar, and English sheep's milk cheese. He devoured them.
We sauntered up Bleecker and then Hudson Street (named after explorer, Henry Hudson, who sailed from The Netherlands to Manhattan in 1609). Ron appreciated the rows of tidy apartments, restaurants, and small gardens. It was the "real NYC", where residents enjoyed their Sundays--far removed from the touristy bustle of places like Herald Square and congestion on filthy Fifth Avenue.
Ron was compelled to learn all about Hudson & Charles Butcher Shop.
I told him that Lewis and I enjoy their humanely-raised foie gras (seen below).
They only sell local, sustainable, grass-fed, hormone-free meat.
Amidst old cobblestone streets of the West Village, we popped into "Grounded" coffeeshop; the aroma beckoned us from around the corner! The smiling baristas were busy tamping, grinding, foaming, and brewing great concoctions. I lifted the lid of their glass pedestal cake display to enjoy the scent of their homemade pumpkin bread. A nearby pumpkin pie looked perfectly full, encircled by ideal crust. Yet, our intention was coffee.
Initially I desired a Cortado (taller than a macchiato, both seen below)...
...but instead I chose Lewis' favorite: Honey Hazelnut Latte. It is concocted with local raw honey (made on rooftops nearby)...
...cinnamon, and a shot of espresso. The girl recommended soy milk. Their fair-trade espresso is roasted to an Italian level and consists of a blend of Indonesian and Central American beans. Ron chose the German Chocolate Cake version, made with coffee beans from Sumatra (the largest of Indonesia's 17,000 islands), along with chocolate, caramel, and coconut milk. (After all that sweetness, I'm not sure how he tasted the coffee).
We nestled amongst the cool clients in the "living room".
I always admire the good energy of that place and how strangers can politely share it, respect others, swap newspapers, or pass books from the bookshelves.
Ron liked the efficiency of the service, how they serve "in-house" coffee in mugs, how they offer glasses of water as accompaniment, and how you add your own raw sugar, agave, honey, or organic Half & Half.
Finished with our beverages, we crossed the cobblestones westward and spotted this pumpkin-colored Corvette. Nice ride!
We avoided the Meatpacking District. It's infested with Jersey Shore/"Bridge & Tunnel" people. It is renown for overpriced restaurants (like the Gansevoort Hotel, which gives uncaringly bad service). We window-shopped and went up the main staircase to the High Line Park.
Ron was enamored with its concept, construction, and landscaping. He couldn't believe that it had originally been a New York Central Railroad freight line established in the 1850s. He was astonished at the train route's history. After decades of Vanderbilt's street-level trains killing over 500 people on 10th Avenue, they elevated the train tracks in the 1920s! Here are pictures of the previous street-level trains...
Alas, like most things in NYC, it quickly fell into disrepair while the wealthy company that owned it took profits and expected the tax-paid city to fix it. Eventually, it was abandoned, and the city never made the company dismantle it. (That occurs across America = "the Rust Belt"). Several years ago, environmentalists found a way to convert it into an elevated park, which the overdeveloped and overcrowded city needed. Unfortunately, the city (which didn't help) now uses it as a ploy to lure more tourists, and desperate hotels promote it wildly, so the narrow park is getting too crowded for locals to enjoy. That is sad.
Ron was compelled to learn all about Hudson & Charles Butcher Shop.
I told him that Lewis and I enjoy their humanely-raised foie gras (seen below).
They only sell local, sustainable, grass-fed, hormone-free meat.
Amidst old cobblestone streets of the West Village, we popped into "Grounded" coffeeshop; the aroma beckoned us from around the corner! The smiling baristas were busy tamping, grinding, foaming, and brewing great concoctions. I lifted the lid of their glass pedestal cake display to enjoy the scent of their homemade pumpkin bread. A nearby pumpkin pie looked perfectly full, encircled by ideal crust. Yet, our intention was coffee.
Initially I desired a Cortado (taller than a macchiato, both seen below)...
...but instead I chose Lewis' favorite: Honey Hazelnut Latte. It is concocted with local raw honey (made on rooftops nearby)...
...cinnamon, and a shot of espresso. The girl recommended soy milk. Their fair-trade espresso is roasted to an Italian level and consists of a blend of Indonesian and Central American beans. Ron chose the German Chocolate Cake version, made with coffee beans from Sumatra (the largest of Indonesia's 17,000 islands), along with chocolate, caramel, and coconut milk. (After all that sweetness, I'm not sure how he tasted the coffee).
We nestled amongst the cool clients in the "living room".
I always admire the good energy of that place and how strangers can politely share it, respect others, swap newspapers, or pass books from the bookshelves.
Ron liked the efficiency of the service, how they serve "in-house" coffee in mugs, how they offer glasses of water as accompaniment, and how you add your own raw sugar, agave, honey, or organic Half & Half.
Finished with our beverages, we crossed the cobblestones westward and spotted this pumpkin-colored Corvette. Nice ride!
We avoided the Meatpacking District. It's infested with Jersey Shore/"Bridge & Tunnel" people. It is renown for overpriced restaurants (like the Gansevoort Hotel, which gives uncaringly bad service). We window-shopped and went up the main staircase to the High Line Park.
Ron was enamored with its concept, construction, and landscaping. He couldn't believe that it had originally been a New York Central Railroad freight line established in the 1850s. He was astonished at the train route's history. After decades of Vanderbilt's street-level trains killing over 500 people on 10th Avenue, they elevated the train tracks in the 1920s! Here are pictures of the previous street-level trains...
Alas, like most things in NYC, it quickly fell into disrepair while the wealthy company that owned it took profits and expected the tax-paid city to fix it. Eventually, it was abandoned, and the city never made the company dismantle it. (That occurs across America = "the Rust Belt"). Several years ago, environmentalists found a way to convert it into an elevated park, which the overdeveloped and overcrowded city needed. Unfortunately, the city (which didn't help) now uses it as a ploy to lure more tourists, and desperate hotels promote it wildly, so the narrow park is getting too crowded for locals to enjoy. That is sad.
Walking atop the revitalized train trestles, Ron loved the unique views.
He noticed what a great platform it was for local independent food vendors.
Beyond the "Chelsea Passage", he looked afar and saw a turn-of-the-century brick building (seen below). It resembles Bruce Wayne's mansion, but it has churchly/educational roots. Now, it's the High Line Hotel, created by Ian Schrager: hotelier and developer of the "Boutique Concept" (and the former Studio 54). Twice, Lewis and I stayed at Ian's hotel in Chicago, named Public House, and loved everything about it (including the farm-to-table cuisine by chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten). Lewis and I passed that building many times but hadn't peeked in yet. So, Ron and I descended the stairs from the High Line and went to investigate the new hotel in a historic structure.
An oasis amongst apartment buildings, the structure keeps its ornamental side facing into its courtyard. The lobby feels cozy, including mismatched sofas and ottomans. A bustling coffee counter (baristas wore the typical fedoras or slouchy beanies) added aroma.
Exiting through the back door, we saw a lovely patio with tables and chairs. Patrons have a view of the beautiful building, like an Ivy League or Oxford campus. It is divinely out-of-place amongst the neighborhood.
We followed people through these (above) large wooden cathedral-like doors. Inside, thoughtfully-placed candles illuminated the grand staircase and large windowsills (seen below). Even in daylight, the effect was welcoming.
Upstairs, a musical concert occurred in "The Refectory" (seen below). Such an awesome room to find, and totally unexpected on our walking tour! Kids will imagine it as Harry Potter's dining room at Hogwarts. As you can see, there are always treasures to be found! (if you're willing to peek behind the door)
Retracing our steps past the busy coffee shop...
An outdoor café existed on one side, blending a ramp access with a sleek fountain. A stationary Food Truck (a vintage French van) acted as the kitchen.
On the opposite side was a cozy bar: a perfect place to pause on a sunny day.
The time approached 5pm, and Ron was due to rendezvous with a couple of guys for dinner. Afterwards, he intended to explore gay bars in the area, as he did during the previous night. He told me about the fun experience that he had at Marie's Crisis, the prior night. (Marie's is a fully gay piano bar, happily crowded with young and "seasoned" men singing showtunes). According to Ron, a handsome fellow winked three times at him. Despite being a chatty guy, Ron hesitated to approach him. All sorts of excuses ran through Ron's mind. All sort of doubts about what could happen. Before leaving the bar, Ron did finally give the other man a compliment on his singing and mentioned that he was visiting from Chicago, for only three days. The man hoped to see Ron again before he left.
I asked if Ron had gotten the guy's name? Ron hadn't exchanged names because he felt it was useless, since they lived so far apart. He didn't seem to notice the other man's continued interest! I pointed that out to Ron.
Acting the roles of a coach and cheerleader, I encouraged Ron to return to Marie's Crisis, find that winking man, and get to know more about him. Besides, Ron expressed loneliness and a desire for more friends. It's always good to have friends, regardless of what city they live in. Politely overcoming each of his objections and taking the time to give him a pep talk (that you probably saw me give in prior blog entries), I kissed him on the cheeks and sent him on his way!
That night, Ron texted me to say "I'm standing next to DUSTIN and we're singing together at the piano. Ha ha!" That was great, and I was happy for their success! The next morning, I was delighted to receive a text from Ron, "Got a lunch date! Meeting Dustin in a couple of minutes." Apparently, Dustin was eager to spend time with Ron, and I felt good that I nudged Ron in the right direction. (It's the way I'd want my friend to take the time to help me). Ron also expressed delight in making the acquaintance of a lovely gay couple--ALSO from Chicago; he met them at Marie's Crisis, too! As a huge coincidence, they live in the neighborhood next to Ron's! Amazing. If he hadn't gone back to Marie's, he would've missed it all. Ron expressed his grateful thanks to me.
I happily shared the news with Lewis, and he replied that--on his way to my home in Astoria--he encountered an ex-coworker named Omar. Coincidentally, Omar lives 5 blocks from me! Omar told Lewis of his summer romance that blossomed into a long-distance relationship (the other man lives in the Netherlands). Omar considered relocating to Europe be with his boyfriend. A new journey. It was all taken on the risk of the first step. Just like Ron, Omar overcame the fear of "distance" to enjoy another human being. Both were rewarded for their efforts. I like that.
As you can see, you never know what's possible or where you might meet people, as long as you're not afraid to try. Don't be afraid of a new path. Our journeys throughout life are curvy and intertwined. Enjoy the journey!
He noticed what a great platform it was for local independent food vendors.
Beyond the "Chelsea Passage", he looked afar and saw a turn-of-the-century brick building (seen below). It resembles Bruce Wayne's mansion, but it has churchly/educational roots. Now, it's the High Line Hotel, created by Ian Schrager: hotelier and developer of the "Boutique Concept" (and the former Studio 54). Twice, Lewis and I stayed at Ian's hotel in Chicago, named Public House, and loved everything about it (including the farm-to-table cuisine by chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten). Lewis and I passed that building many times but hadn't peeked in yet. So, Ron and I descended the stairs from the High Line and went to investigate the new hotel in a historic structure.
An oasis amongst apartment buildings, the structure keeps its ornamental side facing into its courtyard. The lobby feels cozy, including mismatched sofas and ottomans. A bustling coffee counter (baristas wore the typical fedoras or slouchy beanies) added aroma.
Exiting through the back door, we saw a lovely patio with tables and chairs. Patrons have a view of the beautiful building, like an Ivy League or Oxford campus. It is divinely out-of-place amongst the neighborhood.
We followed people through these (above) large wooden cathedral-like doors. Inside, thoughtfully-placed candles illuminated the grand staircase and large windowsills (seen below). Even in daylight, the effect was welcoming.
Upstairs, a musical concert occurred in "The Refectory" (seen below). Such an awesome room to find, and totally unexpected on our walking tour! Kids will imagine it as Harry Potter's dining room at Hogwarts. As you can see, there are always treasures to be found! (if you're willing to peek behind the door)
Retracing our steps past the busy coffee shop...
...we emerged at the forecourt.
An outdoor café existed on one side, blending a ramp access with a sleek fountain. A stationary Food Truck (a vintage French van) acted as the kitchen.
On the opposite side was a cozy bar: a perfect place to pause on a sunny day.
I asked if Ron had gotten the guy's name? Ron hadn't exchanged names because he felt it was useless, since they lived so far apart. He didn't seem to notice the other man's continued interest! I pointed that out to Ron.
Acting the roles of a coach and cheerleader, I encouraged Ron to return to Marie's Crisis, find that winking man, and get to know more about him. Besides, Ron expressed loneliness and a desire for more friends. It's always good to have friends, regardless of what city they live in. Politely overcoming each of his objections and taking the time to give him a pep talk (that you probably saw me give in prior blog entries), I kissed him on the cheeks and sent him on his way!
That night, Ron texted me to say "I'm standing next to DUSTIN and we're singing together at the piano. Ha ha!" That was great, and I was happy for their success! The next morning, I was delighted to receive a text from Ron, "Got a lunch date! Meeting Dustin in a couple of minutes." Apparently, Dustin was eager to spend time with Ron, and I felt good that I nudged Ron in the right direction. (It's the way I'd want my friend to take the time to help me). Ron also expressed delight in making the acquaintance of a lovely gay couple--ALSO from Chicago; he met them at Marie's Crisis, too! As a huge coincidence, they live in the neighborhood next to Ron's! Amazing. If he hadn't gone back to Marie's, he would've missed it all. Ron expressed his grateful thanks to me.
I happily shared the news with Lewis, and he replied that--on his way to my home in Astoria--he encountered an ex-coworker named Omar. Coincidentally, Omar lives 5 blocks from me! Omar told Lewis of his summer romance that blossomed into a long-distance relationship (the other man lives in the Netherlands). Omar considered relocating to Europe be with his boyfriend. A new journey. It was all taken on the risk of the first step. Just like Ron, Omar overcame the fear of "distance" to enjoy another human being. Both were rewarded for their efforts. I like that.
As you can see, you never know what's possible or where you might meet people, as long as you're not afraid to try. Don't be afraid of a new path. Our journeys throughout life are curvy and intertwined. Enjoy the journey!
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