Half Windsor Full Throttle: Our Trip to Copenhagen, Denmark - Part 3 of 9

At 6:30 am, we joined the hotel's Running Club for a unique experience: seeing the city illuminated at dawn! The sessions are offered complimentary, and each is led by a professional coach. That is indicative of a Nordic "Life/Work Balance" that includes fitness and "being outdoors".

We were joined by a Scotsman who visits Copenhagen annually for the last 10 years, an Englishwoman, a Danish traveler, and some Italians. After stretching on the cobblestones outside the hotel, we started running. We crossed Frederiksborggade, which is a street named for Frederiksborg Castle that it leads to. (We went there later!)

We jogged behind the Botanical Gardens (seen below). Founded in 1600, its 10 hectares brim with 13,000 species, 24 conservatories, library, herbarium, museum, rock garden, outdoor café, and Garden Supply Shop. The glass dome was built by Carlsberg Brewery in 1874. The gardens offer free admission.

Crossing Sølvgade (Silver Street of 1649), we entered the 30-acre Østre Anlæg Park, containing two museums and three ponds.

The sun rose higher, illuminating the sparkling ripples of the ponds. We paused to a let a swan cross the path.

Speaking of that, just like Boston's famous book, Make Way for Ducklings...

...Copenhagen has its own cute story.

We did lunges near Østerport train station, near the American embassy. To keep things pretty, train tracks æsthetically go under the city and re-emerge at Central Station.

Then, we ran past the cheerily yellow/orange rows of historic homes called Nyboder (New Small Houses). Built by King Christian IV in 1631...

...as compensation for sailors and soldiers, it is a fine neighborhood. Lovingly maintained since its completion in 1757, the area has pretty homes for hundreds of families. "Nyboder Yellow" is a national color derived from that area... just like "Nantucket Red" in America.

We crossed Ring Road #2... similar to the Ring Roads of Vienna, Paris, and Beijing. That section was named after a Swede: Folke Bernadotte, the Count of Wisborg. During WWII, he orchestrated the release of 31,000 Nazi-held prisoners, including 450 Danish Jews. Collaborating with the Red Cross in the neutral Kingdom of Sweden, a highlight was Operation White Buses: a globally-famous success of 15,000 lives.

Our ponytailed coach led us over the moat to Kastellet, a star-shaped pentagon 17th-century fortress. It has a Dutch-type windmill circa 1847 that helped feed the troops. When King Christian IX's daughter became the Empress Consort of Russia, she had rye flour sent to the Imperial Court in Saint Petersburg from that mill.

In 1801, Kastellet famously defended the harbor during the Battle of Copenhagen against Vice-Admiral Horatio Nelson: the one-eyed, one-armed British naval hero. The Brits attacked to prevent Denmark from following a Russian notion that seemed to help France. Partly because of the courage with which the Danes fought, a truce was reached between Copenhagen and Lord Nelson. The instigator, Tsar Paul I of Russia—son of Catherine the Great—was assassinated soon after, and the matter dissolved.

Its grass-covered ramparts are enjoyed by joggers. Even the Crown Prince jogs there with his bodyguards.

We entered from the north via the Norway Gate, a Baroque-styled guardhouse from 1663 that faces Norway. It is reminiscent of when both kingdoms were joined from 1523 until 1814. (The Kingdom of Norway was then equally partnered with Sweden, until it achieved independence in 1905). *To see when we adventured through Norway, please use this link: https://halfwindsorfullthrottle.blogspot.com/2023/08/our-trip-to-oslo-norway-karl-johan.html

With the eastern coast bathed in sunshine, we all paused to admire the city's "green" Sewage Treatment Plant, powered by wind turbines...

...and the waste-to-energy plant: Amager Resource Center.

Bjarke Ingels Group (BIG) is a Danish architect defying convention and focusing on sustainability and sociological benefits. Before designing Google’s headquarters and NYC’s Vessel at Hudson Yards, BIG designed Amager: the cleanest incineration plant in the world. It helps Denmark be “zero carbon” by 2025. It burns 400,000 tons of municipal waste to produce heat and electricity, and produces more clean water than it uses. Sulphur emissions will be reduced by 99.5%, and nitrogen oxides by 90%!

Always conscientious, they made sure it was not an eyesore. Designed with a slant, it features a year-round ski slope and rock-climbing walls.

Resuming our run, we passed St. Alban's Church, circa 1885, which gives its services and webcasts in English because it was built for the city's British population.

Resembling a part of England's East Anglia, the Anglican church was built by Sir Arthur Blomfield. It was begun when English residents asked the Danish Princess Alexandra—married to the Prince of Wales—to create a church. (When she became Queen of England, Alexandra often visited the church). *Trivia: She was deaf and she was a famous snapshot enthusiast who encouraged early handheld cameras. She lent her photographs to Kodak for its advertising campaign.
When the church was built, its opening was attended by the Prince & Princess of Wales, King & Queen of Denmark, Russian Tsar & Tsarina, and King & Queen of Greece! Wow! Like the English princess, the tsarina and the Greek king were Danish.

The Gothic Revival steeple contains 15 tubular bells. Eight were presented by the Prince of Wales, when the church was built. In 2013, the current Prince of Wales added seven more bells and for all 15 to be played by a computer. Every quarter-hour, the spire’s 80 louvres open automatically, and the bells chime and then play music.

*Please click this link to see our first trip to England:

https://halfwindsorfullthrottle.blogspot.com/2021/10/our-trip-to-london-uk-part-1-which.html

We circled the red buildings and tread between them.

The fortress is still an active military site used by the Danish Home Guard,

Judge Advocate Corps,

and Military Intelligence of the Danish Defense Ministry.

The former Commandant's house is the official residence for the Chief of Defense.

We exited the southern gateway/bridge, called King's Gate. It's named for Frederik III, who was the King of Denmark & Norway from 1648 to 1670.

Passing the Embassy for Nepal, we jogged across the City Center. Pausing at at crosswalk, we were surprised when a young man (ending a long night at the bar) drunkenly greeted me. Hearing my American accent, he slurred his favorite American cities that he wants to visit. He was trying to flirt with me. As we jogged ahead, I bragged to Lewis that I'm attractive, even when sweaty!

We passed Messen Department Store from 1895 and ran through Kultorvet (Coal) Square, which hasn't changed since the 1800s.

We had fun jumping up-and-off the circular fountain.

As seen below, it is used for dancing in summertime.

We jogged past the Round Tower, built in 1642. It survived the Second Battle of Copenhagen in 1807, when the British returned and bombarded the capital to take Denmark's naval fleet, so it could not be stolen by Napoleon. 195 civilians were killed and 768 wounded, while 2,000 properties were damaged. Thankfully, the Royal Institute for the Deaf was unharmed.

We returned to our hotel by 7:30 am, and our coach was proud that we accomplished 7 kilometers (4.5 miles), instead of just 5k!

At 8am, church bells greeted the waking city. For breakfast, we enjoyed our hotel's proximity to Torvehallerne Food Market.

The courtyard has greenmarkets and flower markets, which occured there since the turn-of-the-century.

(Notice the same buildings above & below)

Some food stalls are outside: Mexican tacos, Korean "street food", and Chinese "street food".

Every proprietor spoke English, as soon as they heard us talk. In true Scandinavian style, we enjoyed a smorgasbord:

From the stall below, I selected a open-faced herring, caviar, bacon sandwich... fresh from the griddle.

At a Meat Market, Lewis chose succulent veal meatballs from a man with a handlebar mustache.

An Empanada Shop featured flour-made crusts, stuffed with barbecued chicken and smoked pork.

Delighted by side-by-side Fishmongers, Lewis ordered calamari and fishcakes. We happily watched them choose freshly-caught squid, slice it, and fry it for us! That's fresh!

A female-owned Vietnamese stall named Lele served a Bahn Mi, but it was mediocre.

We washed it down with freshly-blended juice.

Many stalls have seating areas, but public seating abounds.

Across the street was a flea market.

It was on the edge of a sport park.

Next, we wanted to join a unique activity that can't be done in many cities: marching alongside columns of Den Kongelige Livgardes (Royal Life Guards)! As protectors of the constitutional monarchy and the Danish Royal Family, they were formed in 1658. They are also responsible for the defense of the realm.

After a five-minute walk, we arrived at Rosenborg Castle, built in 1606. It was a summer home for King Christian IV: one of Scandinavia's most ambitious rulers.

Its architecture was Dutch Renaissance style.

*To see our trip to the heartland of the Renaissance in Italy, please click this link...

https://halfwindsorfullthrottle.blogspot.com/2022/03/our-trip-to-italy-part-1-of-7-milan.html

The castle still houses a branch of the Royal Danish Army. The army was established in 1614; only 8 military units in the world are older.

Every day of the year, promptly at 11:30am, the Royal Guards parade from their barracks at the castle to the Queen's palace (seen below) and perform a Changing of the Guard ceremony.

Named Amalienborg, the palace complex is democratic: four equal-sized palaces for the sovereign, first-born heir, and relatives.

Every day, regardless of the weather, the guards march into the palace square with music. The outgoing guards (who completed their jobs as sentries) stand "at attention" with their rifles, waiting to be "relieved of duty". A flag is relayed to the Adjutant. Then, the changeover occurs. Every 2 hours during the next 24 hours, patrols of guardsmen will enter the courtyard to exchange the sentries in the red guard boxes.

Appealingly, the palace complex is accessible for visitors and "royal subjects" to pass through. It's as approachable as the kingdom's leaders.

Lewis and I had time to buy a wedge of organic Danish cheese from the local cheesemonger near the castle. We love cheese, and it's a perfect snack. The proprietor sold cheeses from Austria, Switzerland, the United Kingdom (mostly England), and the Kingdoms of Spain, Belgium, and the Netherlands. We wanted a local one, so we ate Bernstein Grubé, aged in limestone caves on the Jutland Peninsula for 10 months. In Danish, when something is yummy, you say "lækker". It was!

Then, we went to the castle. Seen below, part of the property is occupied by a long barracks. The military base at Rosenborg is full of cadets: exercising and doing "drills" all around you!

When they are not guarding royals, the soldiers exert themselves with military training, fitness, and marksmanship.

We'd certainly feel safe having them around us!

*To see when Lewis and I visited the longest-occupied barracks in the world, please use this link:

https://halfwindsorfullthrottle.blogspot.com/2023/02/our-trip-to-dublin-ireland-part-2-of-6.html

A crowd gathered at the gatehouse on Gothersgade, named for the Goths who overthrew the ancient Roman Empire that tried to invade Denmark. From the 1300s until 1972, Danish kings were titled King of the Goths.

Guardhouses in Denmark are painted red. At the castle, sentries occupied them by the gate and near the museum where the Crown Jewels are stored in the Treasury.

When Her Majesty is "in residence", a large troop of guardsmen march with a military band for the Changing of the Guard ceremony. Music is performed by the Royal Life Guards Music Corps, which was established in 1670.

When lesser royals are "in residence", a smaller detachment marches with a Fife & Drum Corps.

The uniform includes dark-blue tunics with red piping, light-blue trousers with white stripes down the legs, crisscrossing white shoulder straps, and faux bearskin hats. Very spiffy! Each guard wears an emblem of the Royal Cypher: the monarch's monogram.

Before the marching begins, soldiers line-up into a formation to be inspected. Their uniforms must be perfectly pressed, ironed, and polished. Their furry hats must be brushed, and their leather utility straps must be pristine and overlap on their chests perfectly. Rifles are oiled, and sabers are sharp. Boots must be supremely shiny.

For special occasions, the soldiers wear red tunics.

*Their uniforms remind me of the Royal Guards in Belgium.

It is an honor to join the Danish Royal Life Guards, and guardsmen are highly-esteemed for their around-the-clock duty.

Queen Margrethe II is not always at home. Aside from global travels and the royal yacht, she summers at Marselisborg Palace and Graasten Palace. Every spring, Her Majesty travels to Fredensborg Palace (seen below).

In the 47th year of her reign, the 79-year-old monarch usually celebrates her birthday (April 16) at Fredensborg. It is a public holiday that is popular with Danes who love their royal family.

Her Majesty is usually surrounded by regiments of Royal Life Guards: they form security cordons at events, they line-up for Honor Guards at balls, and they greet her with music for diplomatic events.

Since Her Majesty was out-of-town, a smaller contingent of guards did the march through Copenhagen. I love the idea of a daily parade! I also love the notion of marching amongst the people by parading through city streets and pedestrian alleys. Unlike in London, the soldiers don't merely march on the main road to the palace; they meander through the capital's retail district, and they pass sidewalk cafes, restaurants, and offices. It provides a daily opportunity for citizens to pause and enjoy festive music and military heritage.

You can find plenty of videos online of the guards brightening people's days with upbeat music, like these two...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z1czRqhPY7E

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sHo1mH5H7CM

Whimsically, the guards choose a different route each day. It enlivens the city with spontaneity as folks see them appear in different places.

Constables halted traffic, while people photographed the approaching guardsmen through the fence. Lewis and I positioned ourselves across the street for an ideal view.

We joined a crowd of cyclists and tourists who followed them, admiring the city's architecture, as we went. The guards marched south on King Christian IX's Street (he looked like this)...

...and then onto a colorful street named Gammel Mønt (Old Mint). It was named for the Royal Mint that existed there in 1541. Lining it are many "fire houses" built after the Great Fire of 1728 (which Wikipedia portrays as "tragicomedy of errors").

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copenhagen_Fire_of_1728

Yes, the guards stop for traffic lights.

*To see the time that we witnessed the Queen's Guard marching to Buckingham Palace, please use this link:

https://halfwindsorfullthrottle.blogspot.com/2022/09/our-return-to-london-uk-part-2-of-6.html

We broke away when they reached a shopping district. Lewis and I explored trendy shops on Pilestraede (Willow Alley). The street was created in 1419.

We adored the cleanliness and orderliness of everything. Clean curbs, clean storefronts, gum-free pavement, no dog poop, and Lewis likes how they keep merchandise outside, e.g.: hand lotions (seen below). New Yorkers might equate that to "bargain basement" techniques, but Danes do it with upscale items in order to entice you... and because their society is trustworthy from theft.

We noticed a boutique named Illums Bolighus, which brandished a proud sign.

Two years ago, the Queen appointed that retailer as a Kongelig Hofleverandør (Royal Court Supplier). Other brands from the Danish Realm with that title include Ecco Shoes, Bisca Cookies, LEGO toys, and A.C. Perch Tea.

We entered a block-long department store named Illum. Opened in 1891, it's the oldest in the capital. The cubist corner of the store is occupied by Prada, with a coffeeshop on the roof.

Earlier than other cities, Copenhagen began studying the benefits of pedestrianizing the area in 1962. The traffic-free result is magnificent and boosts retail shopping.

Unlike America's retail industry—notorious for listless workers and snooty sales associates—Illum is a fine store: clean, chic, and comforting.

A food court and Eataly Store fill the lower level.

The rooftop cafe is famous for delicious food and taking scenic pictures. Even in mid-afternoon, candles flickered and folks sipped wine from stemware on the balconies. Teenage students ate lunch. Baristas delivered espresso cups/saucers.

The restaurants are airy.

Original Coffee operates two coffeeshops in the southern corners, and each has an outdoor balcony. We went there.

The Illum Rooftop is renown for selfies, thanks to its skyline views.

The view was used by National Geographic for their 2019 Culinary Guide of the city...

Naturally, we participated with these photos...

Compare that prestige to the ugliness on New York's "elite" shopping street (with the same boutiques and brands)...

https://halfwindsorfullthrottle.blogspot.com/2016/05/filth-around-manhattans-fifth-avenue.html

After lattes and lunch, we exited onto a pedestrian-only street named Kobmagergade that was built in 1200 and goes through the Old Town.

For fun, we ascended the spiral-ramped Round Tower, Rundetaarn, which was another amazing architectural project of King Christian IV.

Built as an astrological observatory tower, the ramps allowed horse-drawn carts to bring equipment to the top and books to the upper-level library. Our Copenhagen Card got us free entry, and the views were impressive. It was an easy walk on the ramps.

After that, we entered Trinitatis Church, circa 1637. Luckily, a baroque chamber orchestra was rehearsing with the pipe organ and a soprano! Opening a door to a pew, we sat and admired the acoustics and ambiance: intricate wood carving, wall-mounted grandfather clock (on time), windows, candle holders on each pew, and a gilded ceiling.