Another glorious day brightened the kingdom's coastal capital.
An early-riser, I enjoyed the "rainbow" on our wall.
Riding down in the elevator, we arrived at the dining area for breakfast. Votives candles flickered on every table, and a bouquet of flowers was near each of them. We like Scandinavian culture.
The hotel provides an impressive buffet of Nordic specialties, priced at DKK 250 ($35) per person. Food is handmade. Nearly every ingredient is organic, and they try to get local foods to reduce CO2 emissions by having trucks travel shorter distances. They choose growers that use sustainable methods without pesticides. That is a lot of effort, and we valued all of it.
Lewis and I breakfasted on several platefuls of hardy fare.
He helped ourselves to their homemade jam (rose hip, sea buckthorn, and mirabelle) on freshly-baked Danishes from a local bread-maker. The bread is made with organic flour from Bornholm. We loaded our plates with cheeses—including Danish Bleu—and nitrate-free organic bacon. Lewis ate scrambled eggs, while I chose soft-boiled ones in nifty egg-holders.
We headed to the Danish National Gallery, called SMK.
It was fun to walk past dragon-shaped railings, gorgeously-etched wooden doors, and decorative brickwork.
Shocking Lewis, a heron followed an old Chinese woman who fed it breadcrumbs! It obeyed the crosswalks, too!
Erected in 1889 in Italian Renaissance style, the museum is fronted by magnolia trees, which were blooming.
As prompt as the rest of the kingdom, the museum unlatched its doors at 10 o'clock, exactly as local bell towers rang.
Scanning our Copenhagen Cards for free entry, the receptionist bypassed any "bag check" and merely advised us to carry our shoulder bags over our stomachs... to avoid bumping exhibits. Obviously, the artwork was delightful—especially this baroque piece by Ruebens.
His ability to tell a story is evident, as we perceive the emotional distress of the "good mother" (in yellow) as part of our audience, thus involving the spectator. Granted, the costumes don't fit the Biblical-era tale "Judgement of Solomon", but the pictorial narrative is great.
We liked the benches and tables set up to help children appreciate masterpieces.
As prompt as the rest of the kingdom, the museum unlatched its doors at 10 o'clock, exactly as local bell towers rang.
Scanning our Copenhagen Cards for free entry, the receptionist bypassed any "bag check" and merely advised us to carry our shoulder bags over our stomachs... to avoid bumping exhibits. Obviously, the artwork was delightful—especially this baroque piece by Ruebens.
His ability to tell a story is evident, as we perceive the emotional distress of the "good mother" (in yellow) as part of our audience, thus involving the spectator. Granted, the costumes don't fit the Biblical-era tale "Judgement of Solomon", but the pictorial narrative is great.
The museum includes the Royal Collection of Graphic Art: 240,000 works of copper-prints, drawings, etchings, watercolors, and lithographic works, from the 15th-century to the present. For those centuries, it was the private collection of the kings, but it was donated for public viewing in 1843.
We liked the benches and tables set up to help children appreciate masterpieces.
I adored Cornelis van Haarlem's “The Fall of the Titans”, painted in 1596. It depicts the Titans being overthrown by Zeus and his gods.
Automatic glass doors swooshed open to give access to catwalks above an enclosed courtyard, which connected the older building to its newer wing.
Cushioned "bleacher" seating faced a pond.
That area is cleverly used for public events.
*To see the time that Lewis and I saw parts of the world's largest private art collection, please click this link:
Cushioned "bleacher" seating faced a pond.
That area is cleverly used for public events.
*To see the time that Lewis and I saw parts of the world's largest private art collection, please click this link:
Exiting the museum, we crossed the lawn...
In folklore, a "nisse" is a Danish "house elf", as seen below.
We visited lakeside rowhouses that form a picturesque community nicknamed Potato Rows.
We refreshed ourselves at Emmery's Organic Bakery & Coffeeshop. Lewis chatted with the barista who will attend Columbia University (an elite "Ivy League" school near Lewis' home in Manhattan). Liking him, the barista gifted him two free raspberry cookies with his double espresso. My latte cost 42 crowns, and it was scrumptious... thanks to hormone-free Danish milk.
We shared a cinnamon bun, but we think Scandinavian buns are too dry. So, I bought a chocolate-covered marzipan egg. Hearing that I intended to eat it later, the cashier politely bagged it for me, and tied a ribbon on top. Very thoughtful. Customers behind me waited patiently: normal behavior in a decent society.
Reaching the lake, we paused to admire the view.
Ten minutes later, we crossed through a park named King's Garden. Created as a Renaissance-style "pleasure garden" in 1606 by King Christian IV, it is the oldest in Copenhagen.
...and visited its neighbor, the Hirschsprung Collection, built in 1911.
Contingent that the government provide a building, Heinrich Hirschsprung donated his art collection to the city. 205 drawings, 45 paintings, 14 watercolors, 55 sketchbooks, and 12 busts, including many Peter Kroyer paintings. We got free admission with our Cards.
In folklore, a "nisse" is a Danish "house elf", as seen below.
After that, we crossed Stockholm Street to admire historic apartment buildings.
We visited lakeside rowhouses that form a picturesque community nicknamed Potato Rows.
There are 480 two-story stone homes, built in 1873 as employee housing for Burmeister & Wain. Beforehand, the area was full of potato fields. (New York's Levittown also began on potato fields, but Copenhagen's area turned out nicer). Their cozy terraces, backyards, proximity to the lake, fireplaces, and quiet streets are highly sought-after.
We refreshed ourselves at Emmery's Organic Bakery & Coffeeshop. Lewis chatted with the barista who will attend Columbia University (an elite "Ivy League" school near Lewis' home in Manhattan). Liking him, the barista gifted him two free raspberry cookies with his double espresso. My latte cost 42 crowns, and it was scrumptious... thanks to hormone-free Danish milk.
We shared a cinnamon bun, but we think Scandinavian buns are too dry. So, I bought a chocolate-covered marzipan egg. Hearing that I intended to eat it later, the cashier politely bagged it for me, and tied a ribbon on top. Very thoughtful. Customers behind me waited patiently: normal behavior in a decent society.
Reaching the lake, we paused to admire the view.
Ten minutes later, we crossed through a park named King's Garden. Created as a Renaissance-style "pleasure garden" in 1606 by King Christian IV, it is the oldest in Copenhagen.
*To see one of our fun excursions in NYC's Central Park, please use this link:
Coats and bags are kept on hangers or in lockers in a tidy basement room. Shoe cleaners keep "street dirt" contained. NYC needs that!
At the roof-level, the interior design was impressively cool!
We had plans to meet our friends Diana and Thomas at Barr Restaurant for lunch.
We walked to the restaurant. Thanks to the capital's priority for pedestrians and cyclists, we got there in several minutes. We had fun crossing the Inner Harbor Bridge.
We waved at kayakers.
Arriving early, we enjoyed a jazz quartet at the riverside Food Court, which included a Singaporean restaurant, barbecue, gourmet porridge maker, pizzeria, pasta station, and an ice cream shop!
That neighborhood of Christianshavn has sleek new apartment buildings, named Krøyers Plads, which allows pubilc swimming in summer.
Seen below, our destination was a refurbished warehouse that was built in 1767. Occupying the main level, Barr Restaurant uses the former space of Noma: a Michelin 3-star restaurant recently named the World's Best Restaurant for the fourth time! Barr is operated by Noma's chef René Redzepi. As you can imagine, our appetites were revved for an culinary adventure. Barr gives gastronomic coolness amidst rustic simplicity. Even though we couldn't get a reservation at Noma, we enjoyed its former space—with a menu by its chef! I'm glad it worked out so nicely.
*To learn more about Redzepi and Noma, please use this link:
https://halfwindsorfullthrottle.blogspot.com/2019/05/a-better-way-to-treat-kitchen-staff.html While we waited for our friends, Lewis and I sat outside. In a welcoming way, a waitress ignited some logs in the fire pit. It provided a hospitable warmth and an aromatic pleasure. Hygge is a priority; that is nice.
Northern Europe provides the perfect weather to use a comforting fire pit in April. We loved that.
The area was full of people relaxing and enjoying the waterside scenery. Blissful.
Diana and Thomas arrived, and we entered Barr. The historic wood beams are prominent.
We got acquainted with our server, and I began my meal with a Whiskey cocktail—involving Apple Shrub and Mushroom/Acorn bitters. The bartender presented it perfectly.
Their rye bread and sourdough were delectable, as were the ramequins of butter and lard to spread on them. Our Peruvian waitress moved to Copenhagen 2 years ago and and loves it! Yes, think about that. A young woman emigrated halfway around the world from Peru to Denmark—for a waitress job—and can make a living in that beautiful city. (When I worked at a NY restaurant with a Peruvian waiter, he hated the exorbitant costs of the USA and its overworked lack of life/work balance). We enjoyed a languid lunch: browned Crab over Chinese Cabbage in beer butter sauce; Danish Lamb meatballs, free-range Pork Schnitzel with horseradish anchovy sauce; and whole Flatfish with browned Shrimp sauce.
Afterwards, I suggested that we cross the street to another reclaimed warehouse, where a Michelin-starred restaurant named 108 recently opened its Corner Coffeeshop & Wine Bar.
It was already very popular. All of the baked goods are made by hand with excellence. Priced at 30 crowns each, the coffees were a perfect "chaser" to our hearty—but not heavy—meal.
We peeked into the dining room of the adjoining restaurant.
Our friends had plans for the afternoon, so Lewis and I decided to burn off calories by walking to the former Meatpacking District in the Vesterboro neighborhood.
Below is Sønder Boulevard, which was modified by the city government to give more "green space" to the community. They closed off traffic at one end. They reduced the pavement to enlarge the center's grassy meridian, which has ping pong tables, basketball & handball courts, picnic areas, and trees.
The images above prove the area's "edgy" attitude. It's not shocking to see Sex Toy shops juxtaposed with cafes, when you remember that sex is not taboo outside of "Puritan-rooted" America. That area is also the city's Red Light district. Prostitution is legal in the kingdom, but brothels are not. Sex workers are found online and outdoors... often at nice places.
Our friends had plans for the afternoon, so Lewis and I decided to burn off calories by walking to the former Meatpacking District in the Vesterboro neighborhood.
Below is Sønder Boulevard, which was modified by the city government to give more "green space" to the community. They closed off traffic at one end. They reduced the pavement to enlarge the center's grassy meridian, which has ping pong tables, basketball & handball courts, picnic areas, and trees.
The images above prove the area's "edgy" attitude. It's not shocking to see Sex Toy shops juxtaposed with cafes, when you remember that sex is not taboo outside of "Puritan-rooted" America. That area is also the city's Red Light district. Prostitution is legal in the kingdom, but brothels are not. Sex workers are found online and outdoors... often at nice places.
Unlike other European countries, there is sexual equality in Denmark because it legalized homosexuality in 1933. In 1989, the Queen acted as Head of State to give Royal Assent for the world's first law to support same-sex partnerships. Without the homophobia and cultural shaming that persists in America, Danish boys can feel confidant to canoodle in every corner of the kingdom.
We climbed the steps of the Central Station from 1911.
Travelers and commuters have orderly bike parking and a clean loggia, before entering the grandly-styled station.
With thick stone columns, wood rafters, and medieval-looking windows, the station is like a fairytale castle for your journey.
Elegance with speed and efficiency; that's the way to go!
We admired Axel Towers, built by Lundgaard & Tranberg, the same architects who birthed the Royal Playhouse and world-famous Tietgen Dormitory.
We proceeded north, meandering whichever way that we felt like going, and we paused to browse in attractive shops.
Overall, we walked 10 miles! We freshened up at our hotel before rendezvousing with Diana and Thomas in the lobby for dinnertime at an amazing place! Join us in the next part!
Travelers and commuters have orderly bike parking and a clean loggia, before entering the grandly-styled station.
With thick stone columns, wood rafters, and medieval-looking windows, the station is like a fairytale castle for your journey.
Elegance with speed and efficiency; that's the way to go!
We admired Axel Towers, built by Lundgaard & Tranberg, the same architects who birthed the Royal Playhouse and world-famous Tietgen Dormitory.
We proceeded north, meandering whichever way that we felt like going, and we paused to browse in attractive shops.
Overall, we walked 10 miles! We freshened up at our hotel before rendezvousing with Diana and Thomas in the lobby for dinnertime at an amazing place! Join us in the next part!
No comments:
Post a Comment
Don't be shy: leave your comments :)