Wednesday, June 1, 2016

Losing a Brasserie

     Brick Café was adored.  



     Lewis and I really loved its distinctive ambiance and menu--servicing a part of the local landscape not touched by many other restaurants.  Several years of steady patrons savored its brasserie-worthy menu: escargot, 


veal meatballs, 





bruschetta, 

a cheese board of Epoisse, Taleggio (both earned Protected Designation of Origin status from their countries), and Humboldt Fog (any cheese lover will drool over it), 

quiche, 



onion soup grantinée, tabbouleh, octopus carpaccio, crab cakes, Cobb salad, Mizuna Greens salad (julienne apple, micro celery, Stilton, chives, sherry dressing), fresh pasta, hand-rolled gnocchi, Dorado, Branzino, wild Salmon, Coq Au Vin, 4-cheese Sirloin Burger, fish & chips, 21-day dry-aged steak frites (homemade fries), or steamed mussels.  



How's that for well-rounded?  Don't forget their fresh paninis!    Lewis loved sitting by the sunny windows, munching on black linguine with spicy seafood.


Their brunches featured savory/piquant "crepes of the day", 


along with notables like "Egg in A Hole", skirt steak & eggs, and French Toast.  


Brunch outside is a weekend favorite of mine.



     Of their desserts, Lewis always ordered the panna cotta.  I liked their crepes Suzette and Creme Brulée.  
     Brick's outdoor seating was on a quiet street.  A few times, we and our friends spotted mounted police trot by.




     I liked sitting outside for a martini during sunset, 



as well as popping in on the way home from somewhere for a macchiato and dessert.  




     The interior was rustic and charmingly quaint: wood floors, well-worn wood tables, some bric-a-brac (love that word), and stained glass.  




Heartfelt goodwill emanated from the long-time staff, who knew me my name.  Busboys promptly served fresh baguette 



& mouth-watering olive tapenade, and they dutifully kept water glasses full and the table clean between courses.  
     Walking past the Brick, you couldn't help but admire its candle-lit coziness, 


with French doors swung open, and a regimented line-up of sidewalk seating that curved around the corner--under protective canopies in summer and heat lamps in autumn.  






The "eye candy" & "people watching" along the sidewalk was delightful--especially in summertime!

     A recipe for continued success.  
     So, when new owners bought the place, we hoped they would keep the successful menu/vibe.  But no.  They gutted the place, ripped out the "look", called it "Mom's", and announced yet another "comfort food" menu to an oversaturated "comfort food" area.  



     What kind of business acumen is that?  If you're going to invest heavily in creating a whole new restaurant, why not do reconnaissance of the area?  Find out what's desired... what is in demand.  Find out what your competing against.  Maybe find a niche that isn't being served.  But no.  They plowed ahead with a "safe" (albeit overly used) idea of "comfort food".  Maybe the realtor didn't mention how many OTHER eateries are already doing that.  One block north of (former) Brick, a new eatery, Burnside Biscuit, suffered the same problem.  Last year, "The Gothamist" reported, "Burnside brings bad chicken and blah biscuits to Astoria."  Now, Burnside has a new chef and a new menu--hoping to claim some customers.  Mom's will learn the same, but it doesn't make them look too smart initially.
     Readers of "We Heart Astoria " blog wrote this about the Brick Cafe becoming Mom's comfort food:

*I’ll miss the original Brick. It’s actually where I would take my mom when she visited. Simple, but high quality French and Italian bistro fair is getting harder to come by.

*Another place for comfort food doesn’t seem really unique. And the name is just terrible.

*My mom doesn’t make burgers and milkshakes, she taught us to eat like an adult. More junkfood for the pasty midwestern transplants. When is the last time a new full service restaurant opened in Astoria touting “healthy” food??

*Astoria is becoming like Brooklyn, trying to go with the trends and it’s going to get old very quickly. It needs to stick to it’s roots, comfort food is over.

*This is a bad idea. Too many “comfort food” restaurants in the neighborhood. I miss the bistro. That’s something original.

*Not excited. Wont sample. Liked Brick. Ciao.

*RIP Brick. I remember I was a teen when you guys first opened up and it was the time Astoria started to get lots of cafes and eateries.





It would seem that if the new owners had merely scouted the area (asked around), they would've known what the locals want.  Time is money, and it's costly to make a Grand Opening mistake... "putting your ladder up against the wrong wall."  
     Meanwhile, I need to find another place serving escargot!  Where else could you get an assortment like this, (below)?



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